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When there's frozen water inside the cable, none of those will do the trick. The question was how to get the moisture out, and what to lube with that won't freeze, like wd40, pb blaster, or kroil. The cables weren't rusty, or broke or any of that, they were frozen with water trapped inside. Those would be fine in the summer, and then the following winter, after the lube had evaporated. But in the winter, the lube freezes.🤔



see that digger.... you didnt know that you dont know what your talking about... hahhahahha
 
WD-40® Technical Data Sheet Packages Appearance: Aerosol—Aerosolized Liquid Bulk—Liquid Color: Light (or pale) amber Odor: Characteristic Freeze Point/Pour Point: -63˚ C ( -81.4˚ F)( ASTM D-97) Kinematic Viscosity @ 100˚ F: 2.79 - 2.96cSt Specific Gravity @ 60˚ F: 0.8-0.82 Boiling Point : 183˚- 187 ˚ C (361˚ F - 369 ˚ F) Vapor Density: >1 Flash Point: 49˚ C (122˚ F)(Tag Open Cup) Volatile by volume: 70% - 75% Lower flammability limit: 0.6% Upper flammability limit: 8.0% Vapor Pressure: Aerosol: 95-115 psi @ 21˚ C (70˚F) Bulk: 1 psi @ 38˚C (100˚F)(ASTM D323)
 
This 149 May be in your area" Beautiful Cottage on South Haven's Northside starts on 3/4/2022

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It's a good thing I don't live near "cubsylvania!" Finding anything up here sucks! I drove 5 hours one way for my 1650, 3 years ago. Shortly after, I told my wife I was buying a cyclops. 3 years of searching craigslist, and my wife checking market place, this 1862 popped up, the first 1862 I seen in 3 years! Then I looked for other machines a similar distance away, found one 1864 in Southern Minnesota, it was a bit high on price, and I didn't like the guy very much. That one was 6 hours one way, the 1862 I bought was over 7 hours one way, 14 hour round trip! But it was the machine I wanted, so well worth the wait, and drive!
 
When there's frozen water inside the cable, none of those will do the trick. The question was how to get the moisture out, and what to lube with that won't freeze, like wd40, pb blaster, or kroil. The cables weren't rusty, or broke or any of that, they were frozen with water trapped inside. Those would be fine in the summer, and then the following winter, after the lube had evaporated. But in the winter, the lube freezes.🤔
I always wondered
Cable and sheath are Stainless Steel? Why not put antifreeze in the sheath and let that keep moisture from freezing.
 
When there's frozen water inside the cable, none of those will do the trick. The question was how to get the moisture out, and what to lube with that won't freeze, like wd40, pb blaster, or kroil. The cables weren't rusty, or broke or any of that, they were frozen with water trapped inside. Those would be fine in the summer, and then the following winter, after the lube had evaporated. But in the winter, the lube freezes.🤔
One easy fix.. Throw it in the scrap pile and put a new on on and be done with it. If you can't afford to replace the cables maybe you shouldn't have bought the tractor. JMT
 
We Michigander guys don't think "throw away" if something is still functional...nothing to do with cost...if it did we we wouldn't be working on 50 yr old machines....some high end cables have a plastic wrap to keep moisture out,most don't . there is a clue with how to fix the issue but preventative action matters most..
 
One easy fix.. Throw it in the scrap pile and put a new on on and be done with it. If you can't afford to replace the cables maybe you shouldn't have bought the tractor.
A $30 cable is well within reach, but thank you for the financial advice. Some of us enjoy fixing what is broke, sometimes just for the challenge, and sometimes, just for something different to do. Being retired at 41, not disabled, retired and debt free, has me looking for projects some days.
 
We Michigander guys don't think "throw away" if something is still functional...nothing to do with cost...if it did we we wouldn't be working on 50 yr old machines....some high end cables have a plastic wrap to keep moisture out,most don't . there is a clue with how to fix the issue but preventative action matters most..
These cables have the plastic "armor" and I think that's what made them such a bugger to get rid of the moisture. The engine end has the protective little cover at the end of the sheath where the inner cable comes out. What started this, the previous owner left it outside, for two years, uncovered. So the rain, I assume, got inside the cable from the dash side, and then just got trapped and froze. I got them working great now. It was 18 below this morning, and they worked great, and the freshly tuned up kohler magnum jumped to life almost instantly! New cables were ordered, and hopefully arriving tomorrow, where they will hang on the shelf until they are needed. The nice thing is, I got to play with this tractor for a week, while others would be waiting for the ups guy to show up.
 
When there's frozen water inside the cable, none of those will do the trick. The question was how to get the moisture out, and what to lube with that won't freeze, like wd40, pb blaster, or kroil. The cables weren't rusty, or broke or any of that, they were frozen with water trapped inside. Those would be fine in the summer, and then the following winter, after the lube had evaporated. But in the winter, the lube freezes.🤔
I used to work for a propane company, We used Methanol to thaw out frozen propane lines. Truckers use it in there air lines to keep them from freezing up.. worth a try i would think .
 
This cable issue has been interesting, my 02 is rusted cable not frozen water, maybe first time. One time frozen, thawed , lubed , working would eliminate water, I would think, but not rust. Having freed many cables over the years not sure I could say they were stainless as most showed rusted so next use would ballup again.
I have used air pressure to blow lube into cables fixing most, removing cables from Cub is a PITA and sure would only want to do one time, have had biggest problem with kinks in center wire.
 
For water displacement Corrosion X is my go to. Used to race remote control boats, when one would flip an water got into electronic servos and receiver, all i had to do was open the plastic case, an spry inside with corrosion x. They would go right back to working. Corrosion X for displacing water an stopping corrosion, kroil oil for penetrating rust.
 
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