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1000 Clutch Issue - shaft won't stop spinning

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belliott

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Nov 10, 2005
Messages
145
Location
Felton, CA
displayname
Bob Elliott
I have a CC 1000 that is having clutch issues. I replaced the clutch in 2016 and put these parts in:
  • Driveshaft
  • T/O Bearing
  • Hanger bracket
  • Hanger pin
  • 3/8" sproil pins
  • 1/4" sproil pins
  • Teaser spring
  • Teaser spring cup
  • T/O Bearing
  • Lubricating bushing
  • Pair of spherical bushings
  • Rag joint
  • clutch disc
I also turned the pressure plates to clean them up and make them flat.

If any part showed a sign of wear I replaced it. My goal was to make the clutch as trouble free as I could.

Now I am experiencing trouble.

Last Saturday I was mowing the lawn at our church for Easter and I found that the clutch was behaving in a strange way. It functioned normally when shifting gears unless I got off the tractor and left the transmission in neutral with the clutch out. When I got back on it I stepped on the clutch and the driveshaft wouldn't stop spinning. I was worried that the adjustment nut had backed off so I tightened it. The clutch was definitely releasing but the problem didn't go away. Again, if I started the engine with the clutch in and the transmission in gear it functions normally. If I put it in neutral and let the clutch out then step on the clutch the driveshaft will not stop spinning. This tractor gets used weekly and it will release while in gear so I'm not concerned about the disc getting seized to a pressure plate.

I searched the board and didn't see a thread that addressed this problem. I thought I would ask what to look for before tearing the tractor apart. If anyone else has experienced this please reply to this post.

Thanks,

Bob

168518337_4383003458380515_3690471526016758822_n.jpg
 
I am NOT overly familiar with the clutch in a 1000 tractor but, it has happened in other tractors so usually the 2 main culprits ( or things to check for) is
1. the driveshaft alignment bearing / bushing at the motor gets crusty/rusty and will "grab" at the driveshaft.
or.
2. the engine alignment isn't straight and causes a pinching onto the driveshaft , again - causing it to spin.

Try and get some lube onto/into the bearing and see if hat helps or cures the problem. If it doesn't loosen the motor bolts and try moving the motor side to side while turning the driveshaft by hand to see if it frees up. ( and don't forget to unplug the spark plug wire before doing this!)
 
Adding to Mike’s list... being a Quietline, what condition are the ISO mounts in.... maybe the engine has moved around on bad mounts, or the pan bolts have loosened...... have you done the cradle mod? First thing I do with a Quietline is pull the engine and do the cradle mod.... especially on my personal preference in models, being the 14 and 1650’s... they really like to shake stuff loose......
 
ISO mounts and cradle mod were done 5 years ago when the clutch was replaced. I'll dig in this weekend and see what I have.

I started using this tractor in 1986 at a neighbor's house where I grew up in Illinois. They had no children and hired me and my brother to do yardwork. They ended up giving it to me later and now they are both gone. Every time I get on it I think of them and feel like I'm 16 again. I am looking forward to repairing it one more time.
 
That’s a “forever tractor”.... we have one too... the 149 Dad bought in 1978 and we still have.... it now has many siblings, but that one is special to us.... I have one that is somewhat special... it a 79 1650 that has some things that I’ve only seen on it vs all the other Quietlines.
 
You hit the nail on the head when you said it is a forever tractor. I'll never sell it.

It has a seat on it that a neighbor welded to the brackets. It isn't correct and looks like it but I'll never change it. I helped him do it in the mid 1980's. Later I was a pall bearer in his funeral. I think of him every time I get on that tractor.

The positive battery cable had insulation that wore through so Sherry had my replace it. I may have been 16 when I did it. That cable is still on the tractor. I think of those days when I see that cable.

At the time these things seemed like insignificant repairs. All these years later they bring back very pleasant memories. If I told a 16 year old me all the changes that the decades would bring he would have said the present me was crazy. I think the craziest thing I could have heard was I would be using that 1000 in Santa Cruz, California.
 
That’s a “forever tractor”.... we have one too... the 149 Dad bought in 1978 and we still have.... it now has many siblings, but that one is special to us.... I have one that is somewhat special... it a 79 1650 that has some things that I’ve only seen on it vs all the other Quietlines.
What are some of special things you see on that 79 1650 vs. the other quietlines?
 
I was wondering the same thing. I have a 1450 with a "cold start kit" which is basically a clutch to disengage the hydrostatic pump from the engine while starting.

What the_01.jpg


What the_02.jpg


What the_03.jpg


Hydro Disconnect_02.JPG
 
What are some of special things you see on that 79 1650 vs. the other quietlines?

I will have to take some pictures the next time I am at Mom and Dads, It’s nothing earth shattering, bit the dash tin is different, ithe markings on it are different, The tunnel cover decal is different. A couple of the knobs are different, and a different color. The bumpers under the seat pan were made of something that turned to a sticky goo and ran down the fender pan. I thought they may have been aftermarket, but the sticky bolt heads that I can see have the WP stamp... that’s all I can think of right now. Plus it was a 1 owned when I bought it....
 
I was wondering the same thing. I have a 1450 with a "cold start kit" which is basically a clutch to disengage the hydrostatic pump from the engine while starting.

View attachment 142978

View attachment 142979

View attachment 142980

View attachment 142981
I never knew that international had that as an option? I knew of other brands and some models of full size tractors that had disconnects for the purpose of better cold weather starting but did not know it could be had on a quiet line cub cadet. Thank you for sharing that.
 
I will have to take some pictures the next time I am at Mom and Dads, It’s nothing earth shattering, bit the dash tin is different, ithe markings on it are different, The tunnel cover decal is different. A couple of the knobs are different, and a different color. The bumpers under the seat pan were made of something that turned to a sticky goo and ran down the fender pan. I thought they may have been aftermarket, but the sticky bolt heads that I can see have the WP stamp... that’s all I can think of right now. Plus it was a 1 owned when I bought it....
Looking forward to some photos of it!
 
I never knew that international had that as an option? I knew of other brands and some models of full size tractors that had disconnects for the purpose of better cold weather starting but did not know it could be had on a quiet line cub cadet. Thank you for sharing that.

I never knew it either, that is until I bought this 1450 and noticed it had the clutch. At first I thought someone just adapted it from an 800, 1000, or 1200 gear drive but Hydro Harry informed me that it was indeed an option.
 
I had the same problem with the last 70 and the last 100 I worked on. What was happening was those anti-rattle springs were making the drive plate cock and drag on the driven plates. Then the driven shaft and transmission starts spinning and you can't shift into gear without grinding.

I left them out on mine, its mainly a show tractor and probably won't rack up many hours while I have it, but I'm sure someone on here will tell us why leaving those out is a bad idea and what 'really' fixes the problem.
 
Adding to Mike’s list... being a Quietline, what condition are the ISO mounts in.... maybe the engine has moved around on bad mounts, or the pan bolts have loosened...... have you done the cradle mod? First thing I do with a Quietline is pull the engine and do the cradle mod.... especially on my personal preference in models, being the 14 and 1650’s... they really like to shake stuff loose......
Good point if engine is out of square with driveshaft location the pins are binding center friction plate fro what I remember of the 1000 I had . If it ain’t one thing it’s six !
 
I never knew it either, that is until I bought this 1450 and noticed it had the clutch. At first I thought someone just adapted it from an 800, 1000, or 1200 gear drive but Hydro Harry informed me that it was indeed an option.

I think it was more common on the diesels... I know that Charlie had /has a few NOS ones.....
 
I think it was more common on the diesels... I know that Charlie had /has a few NOS ones.....

I believe that those are electric clutches on the diesels and I knew about those. This mechanical clutch on the Quiet Line hydro was a new one for me at the time.
 
Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos:
You know, I don't remember telling you about the Hydro Clutch Option for the Quiet Line Hydros, but I surenuff knew it was an option. My son had a 1650 at one point that had one. Really never needed it in CT, but for you and the boys in the Tundra (where 0 degrees can be the high some days) like Charlie, and even Al Pat north of the border, it'd probably be a keeper for sure.
 
I took the engine out of the tractor today. The spherical pilot bushing looked worn so I replaced it. I had a spare on hand - good thing.

When I put the drive plate back on the engine hub I noticed that the bushing cup held it proud of the hub. When I tightened the four bolts it distorted the drive plate. I measured the offset it and got 0.030". I had some peelable shims I dug out of the trash from work years ago. I cut some shims and put it together. It now releases as it should. I probably have the only Cub Cadet with space rated hardware around.

Thanks for the help.
 
Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos:
You know, I don't remember telling you about the Hydro Clutch Option for the Quiet Line Hydros, but I surenuff knew it was an option. My son had a 1650 at one point that had one. Really never needed it in CT, but for you and the boys in the Tundra (where 0 degrees can be the high some days) like Charlie, and even Al Pat north of the border, it'd probably be a keeper for sure.

Here's a link to the archives where you posted a reply to me regarding it:

Cold Weather Start
 
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