• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Hoods and the constant rattle

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

lkortkamp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2009
Messages
280
displayname
Larry
Is it just me? My 149 has the piano hinge that is getting very loose. My 127 has the two bolts that are excessively loose. I now know why so many people just remove the hoods on old tractors!

Is the only fix buying a new piano hinge every couple years? The 127 was a very worn tractor when I got it so it definitely needs some refurbishment in the hood hinge department. I'm going to machine some new bushing for the hood and switch it over to maybe shoulder bolts? Maybe some brass bushings? That is a project for a later date.

I've tried foam rubber pieces at the front corners, but that only lasts a couple uses before it smashes it out. I have some hood welt strips that they used on very early car hoods. It did pretty well last weekend. Time will tell if it survives very long. Oiling the hinge did near nothing to make it last. The vibration just destroys the pin. At one time it would walk its way out the side of the tractor while mowing. I finally was able to bend the ends just enough to retain it.

I hope it's not just me.
 
The previous owner of my cub- installed some heavy door hinges. They've been trouble-free since 1996.
About the only modification I see is drilling the holes in the correct place.

HoodHinges.jpg
 
I have rubber cemented pieces of 1/8 inch rubber to the top of the grill where the hood makes contact on both sides, then where the hood rests on the dash. Last time I cut up an old flat fan belt for that. Also, you may get more vibration if your driveshaft needs restoration.
 
I've got a new driveshaft installed so that is pretty tight. Those big door hinges look like the ticket. Anything but that flimsy 1/16" piece of wire in that piano hinge.

I had thoughts of finding rubber bumpers with stud mounts and machine a surface on the grille to recess them for proper fit. Something easily replaced when worn.
 
Get some 3/8" plastic washers from the hdw store and put them between the grill and bushing that's welded to the inside of the NF hoods then snug the bolts down.

WF, pinch the rolled part of the hinge tighter around the pin in your vise and lock it in w/a center punch.
 
I use fiber washers on the hood bolts on my 125s and Original. I put them between the hood and the grill. To keep things tight I use nylon insert lock nuts.
 
My 149 had a CHEEP piano hinge from PO. Replaced with two stainless steel door hinges, using original bolt holes only. Drilled holes to match, in new hinges. I also found a long rod of stainless, ,matching the hinge pin diameter, and used it INSTEAD of the original pins in the hinge. Keeps both hinges lined up so that they don't work the bolts loose or chew up the bolt holes. (that WILL happen if you have two hinges where the hinge pin axis is not EXACTLY lined up) I did have to cut off part of the hinge leaf on each hinge to clear the inside line of the nose piece, so I wouldn't catch my hands on the sharp corners of the hinges.
 
What about something like this? Might not look the greatest but would eliminate vibrations by holding the hood tightly against the console framework / shroud... :unsure:
View attachment 138695

My 125s still have intact hood hold down clamps and rubber cushions. The hood still rattled until I put in the fiber washers and lock nuts to keep the hinge point tight. My Original with out any hold downs, but with the fiber washers and lock nuts doesn't rattle.
 
I also used door hinges. Mine are from an outside door that I replaced. A nice thing is that they are solid and when you want to remove the hood, you just tap out the pins. No screws to deal with.
Earl L
 
Another “fix” that Dad and I have used. Every worker that we have had (except Dad’s 782) has had a rubber strap/bungee cord from one “running board” to the other across the hood. That helps a bunch.... Maybe not “correct” but us has worked for us......
 
Geez guys - on the 1x8/9 wide frame series it's an easy fix to swap over to the Quiet Line hood hinge. No holes to drill, no nothing. It's a perfect fit, and the steel is nearly as thick as those door hinges you're looking at. Much much much better hinge. The hood will sit just ever so slightly higher off the cast iron lower grill housing. This does NOT stop the rattle tho. The rattle stops when you use the original hood clamps hidden just under the dash on the sides of the dash support. Maybe yours have been removed.
Here's a pic of the Quiet Line hinge installed on my 169. Problem for you all is finding a QL hinge. I don't think Charlie at CC Specialties has them. They were a slow slow slow seller for CCC since they just don't wear out. You can probably find a good used one.
Hood Hinge.jpg
 
I can't post pictures. Please show this guy a picture of those hood latches. I have 5 of that 1x8/9 series and I think only one has both latches.
 
Oops - looks like I was wrong about Charlie at CC Specialties not having the QL hood hinge. He notes he does have 2 in stock and here's his pic so you can see how nice and thick the steel is and very similar to the door hinge.
Quiet Line Hood Hinge IH-106254-C1.jpg
 
1x8/9 Series Hood Latch:

149_Operators_Manual.jpg


EDIT: Here's a photo of one, it's at the far left in the photo.

Hood Latch_01.jpg
 
My 149 had a CHEEP piano hinge from PO. Replaced with two stainless steel door hinges, using original bolt holes only. Drilled holes to match, in new hinges. I also found a long rod of stainless, ,matching the hinge pin diameter, and used it INSTEAD of the original pins in the hinge. Keeps both hinges lined up so that they don't work the bolts loose or chew up the bolt holes. (that WILL happen if you have two hinges where the hinge pin axis is not EXACTLY lined up) I did have to cut off part of the hinge leaf on each hinge to clear the inside line of the nose piece, so I wouldn't catch my hands on the sharp corners of the hinges.
Took a picture, almost like the QL, missing the middle. I was tight for cash at the time.:(
IMG_20200603_192619564.jpg


Also made a substitute headlight panel to hold the LED headlamps.
IMG_20200603_193016045.jpg


They REALLY light up the yard at night for finishing mowing or blowing snow in the evening.
 
Hmmmm, my 149 is missing those latches. My 127 has part of the factory clips hanging but need replaced so they can actually work.
 
My rattle is all at the front. I thought about adding something back at the dash, but this is all metal noise. The welt strip I put in last week is still working fine this weekend. Nice and quite. I will still look at replacing the hinge!!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top