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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I suggest you do the valves. You have better than 50 percent chance of being back in the engine as deep as you are now if you don't.
 
Bummer you had to open it up that far, but good to hear you are on the road to repair.
 
While the head is off, at a minimum, rotate the engine and verify the valves operate. And I would agree with the above, pull each valve and clean / lap them with compound. Will only add a small amount of labor - minor cost for compound and it will ensure no leaks at least around the valves.

My point oh two, fwiw, yada yada yada..... :cubwinker:
 
While the head is off, at a minimum, rotate the engine and verify the valves operate. And I would agree with the above, pull each valve and clean / lap them with compound. Will only add a small amount of labor - minor cost for compound and it will ensure no leaks at least around the valves.

My point oh two, fwiw, yada yada yada..... :cubwinker:



Agreed, and done. I had a friend help lap the valves since he's done it before. Cleaned everything real good including wire brushing the head, top block, and valves. Checked the valves and they look like they are closing good.
I then drained the oil and changed the oil filter. Installed the new gasket set using the copper spray sealant and thread sealer on the new head bolts. Torqued to spec and topped off the oil and anitfreeze. Oh, replaced the original hoses too and got rid of the old school tower clamps. I went to try and start it but had gas dripping out of the carb so I ordered a new carb kit. I had soaked the carb overnight then rebuilt it. Placed the carb on yesterday and she sputter to life!! Took a little coaxing but finally took off after 30 seconds or so. Runs like at top!Thanks to everyone here with their tips and advice, much appreciated!!

Now the bad news... I went to back it out of the garage but the driveshaft wont stop spinning even with the clutch depressed. Seems like the clutch is froze from sitting. I will be working on that next but hopefully will be cutting our back field soon!

Regards, Bill
 
Agreed, and done. I had a friend help lap the valves since he's done it before. Cleaned everything real good including wire brushing the head, top block, and valves. Checked the valves and they look like they are closing good.
I then drained the oil and changed the oil filter. Installed the new gasket set using the copper spray sealant and thread sealer on the new head bolts. Torqued to spec and topped off the oil and anitfreeze. Oh, replaced the original hoses too and got rid of the old school tower clamps. I went to try and start it but had gas dripping out of the carb so I ordered a new carb kit. I had soaked the carb overnight then rebuilt it. Placed the carb on yesterday and she sputter to life!! Took a little coaxing but finally took off after 30 seconds or so. Runs like at top!Thanks to everyone here with their tips and advice, much appreciated!!

Now the bad news... I went to back it out of the garage but the driveshaft wont stop spinning even with the clutch depressed. Seems like the clutch is froze from sitting. I will be working on that next but hopefully will be cutting our back field soon!

Regards, Bill
 

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Here’s a pic of the blown head gasket..
Total blow out between cylinders 1 and 2.
 

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Excellent news! Bummer about the stuck clutch though. That should be, I would think, a fairly easy fix. Before you tear it apart tow it around with the clutch depressed, it might just free up, been there done that with other vehicles.
 
Thanks, I am going to try that as well as. I’ve been told, that trying to start it in third gear can also free up the clutch too. I can’t imagine it’s too “frozen” but then again I’ve heard horror stories of Farmall cubs where they had to split the engine from the rear to take the pressure plate apart. We’ll see, fingers crossed. I will say it’s nice to hear it putter again and I can’t wait to cut some grass with it!!
 
Thanks, I am going to try that as well as. I’ve been told, that trying to start it in third gear can also free up the clutch too. I can’t imagine it’s too “frozen” but then again I’ve heard horror stories of Farmall cubs where they had to split the engine from the rear to take the pressure plate apart. We’ll see, fingers crossed. I will say it’s nice to hear it putter again and I can’t wait to cut some grass with it!!

so pull it around in a gear with the clutch depressed correct? Any gear better than another? And for how long until you finally realize it will or won’t come undone? Can’t say I’m familiar with these procedures so I have to ask.
 
I've done it by hitching the tractor drawbar to a very stout tree, Chained and driven forward with the clutch pedal depressed, then reverse and back into the tree. More than a but crude but it worked for me. I think the shock is what freed it up. I'd think a couple tries forward or reverse should be enough.. fwiw..
 
The method Mike suggested can work, especially if you are working alone, though please be careful. If you have a helper, tow it around with the clutch pedal pressed in. Any forward gear should work or try them all.
 
The method Mike suggested can work, especially if you are working alone, though please be careful. If you have a helper, tow it around with the clutch pedal pressed in. Any forward gear should work or try them all.
Yikes, no doubt the tree idea works but honestly, no big tress on the property where the tractor is kept (sister's house), except for some pine trees that line the property boundry. Not sure my sister would want me cutting off the lower branches and banging into them. LOL but good to know. I will get someone to pull me around with my truck and try it in different gears. Are there any advantages to using the brakes at all? Just thinking it might help when I go across concrete, especially it the tires grab hard enough to jar the tractor?

I researched replacing the clutch, and this tractor likely has the original. It seems like a lot of work but one post stated a 3 hour job so I guess not too bad. I would definitely replace everything , if I'm going to that much trouble why not.
 
You want the tires to turn so that the transmission turns so that it puts strain on the clutch. Keep the clutch pedal depressed while the tractor is being towed. Keep the speed down, you just need to have things turning. If all goes well it will free up in the first few feet of movement.
 
You didn't like those trees anyways! :errrr: I can see you and your sisters family now... :fencing: No worries, just need to add stress to the clutch with the pedal depressed. Not sure what your truck is, but you could chain to that, just keep ready and steady to kill the ignition If needed. It'll be easier and helpful if you have a helper too. You might be able to break it free just by cranking it over and letting it pull against the chain/truck..
 
Good advise here.. so if I chain to the front I don't want to hurt the front axle yanking on it (I'll have a friend pulling me around in my 88' F-150). Maybe use a cloth tow strap instead of a chain around the axle? Not remembering if the front has a hitch point or something?

Third gear it is.. I was lightly tapping a thin putty knife in between the plate and flywheel, (found this on the web too), and when I was tapping saw a lot of brown dust coming from it. Luckily its been in dry storage. I can spin the flywheel and do this around each side. Didn't damage anything , just hoping it would help work it loose. I hope too play with it more today if I can get over there (my sister's house it a few minutes away). I did try starting it in gear, reverse and third but no go, just worked my way back and forth in the garage. LOL
Maybe somethings telling me nothing is easy! If I have to get into it, it will be a new clucth disc, pressure plate, throw out bearring, etc. I'm guessing its all original, never replaced since we've had it, around 1985.
 
Yes, a tow stap is better than a chain. Best if you have rear tires on a surface with some grip. You be in the saddle with the clutch pedal depressed, tranny in third and have the tow vehicle first try towing you. If that doesn’t work, try some GENTLE snatches. If that doesn’t work, get out your wrenches.
 
Gotcha'. Understood. And yes, I understand that the clutch needs to be in. :bluethumbsup: I had my son on the tractor holding down the clutch when i was trying to get a thin putty blade between the disc and flywheel. That hasn't worked yet but maybe will help when we tow it. Now, I actually have a bungy holding it down for good until this is resolved. Worst case scenario I have to read up on how to install a new clutch, but then hey, everything will be new.
 
No go with the tow... rocked it in gear, pulled it around the yard in 3rd gear with the clutch depressed and hammered the brakes a few times to shake her up. Nothing worked. Just removed the mower deck today and starting the disassembly. Oh well, a new clutch should last another 40 years right!!
 
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