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Well, it looks like I have another boat anchor!
Picked it up yesterday when I dropped off two K341's to get checked out.
Just what I need, NOT!!
Amazing how nice 'n' clean they can get this stuff

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I had that happen to one of my K341s too in the same spot. Took it to one of the local machine shops and he said that he could pin it and it would be good as new. Basically he drilled a hole and drove a piece of round stock into the hole then drilled another hole removing half of the pin and drove in another and repeated as needed until the crack was filled. Worked great. I put 25-30 hours on it myself before selling the tractor and it was still good when it left on the new owners trailer
 
KInda wondered about that.
There's a method called lock'n'stitch that is about the same deal except they drill and tap, then screw in a special bolt of some sort, then drill again right next to it taking part of the bolt out and so on and so on.

I think it would be a crap shoot to invest very much into this method though.

Metal Stitching & Thread Repair Inserts. - Turlock , CA - LOCK-N-STITCH, Inc
 
The picture didn't show it well - but I didn't see where it reached into the cylinder. I wouldn't hesitate to have it welded.
 
Guess it depends on time and money. You can weld that crack if you find someone that knows what there doing but buy the time you deck the head and re do valves you might have more money in it than you can finding another engine.
 
Repairing Cast of any Metal requires knowledge of the proper procedure required and having the right equipment. Journeyman Maintenance Welder since 1957, I have repaired cracks in different types of cast materials for Engine Blocks for NTPA members, cast Steel & Iron of large Industrial Air Compressors , cast Aluminum and various other types of cast equipment with satisfactory results. Procedure and Equipment
 
Southern exposure on a cool winter day@
Ya gotta love it!
K341 back together, should have it in the chassis and running by this evening.
+.010 piston and -.010 rod.
It will have an angle blade setup on it for snow duty, that us if we even get any this winter!!
 

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Southern exposure on a cool winter day@
Ya gotta love it!
K341 back together, should have it in the chassis and running by this evening.
+.010 piston and -.010 rod.
It will have an angle blade setup on it for snow duty, that us if we even get any this winter!!
That's a slick engine mount setup. If/when I ever get after a rebuild of a K241 I might have to make up something like that. Fortunately the little Tecumseh AH520s and AH600 Toro Snowpup engines that I have been working on bolt right on the the 1" square tubing that make up one of my tables.

Regarding the [lack of] snow; where about are you located?
 
That's a slick engine mount setup. If/when I ever get after a rebuild of a K241 I might have to make up something like that. Fortunately the little Tecumseh AH520s and AH600 Toro Snowpup engines that I have been working on bolt right on the the 1" square tubing that make up one of my tables.

Regarding the [lack of] snow; where about are you located?
 
John, I'm36 miles west of Dubuque.
You ever get down this way, look me up.
I hear that the annual show in Forrest City IA this year will feature lawn and garden equipment.
1st weekend in June I believe.
That should only be a few hours south of you.
 
Well it's up and running!
Let it sit outside running for aboiut 20 minutes and drove around the yard some as well then ran it back on the table.
Will re-torque the head in the morning.
I am pleased to report that it runs smooth and if I didn't know better I would think I was driving my 1000!!
This is the crank with the Kirk balance plate installed that I bought from Bob Campbell last year.

Next up is fitting a muffler to the 1-1/4" outlet.
I do haver a 1" elbow with bad threads that I think I can use.
Picked up a close 1-1/4" double wall black pipe nipple today and the plan is to cut off the damaged 1" threads from the 321 elbow leaving about 1/8" protruding from it to act as a center lip.

Then cut the threads off one end of the nipple and weld that end to the elbow centering it on the lip that was left on it.
This will give me about the same length of threads as th OEM 341 elbow. and should screw right into the block so an OEM muffler will mount correctly.

I am a happy camper this evening.
 
Well,so much for my brainstorming idea to modify a 1" OEM elbow.
Turns out they are cast iron and would be near impossible (for me at least) to join the two pieces together short of turning something custom up on a lathe w/threads to make that work.

So, now the plan is to obtain a 1-1/4 x 1" black pipe bushing and try to make something work that way. Maybe miter a few corners etc.
 
I have a model 70, per my post. I saw this number cast into the right side (sitting on the tractor) into the transmission. Is this the serial number?
385058R1
 
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