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Steering Wheel Removal

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I started making a puller with some scrap hardwood, then got sidelined by some kind of stomach flu for the past couple of days. Hoping to be back at it the next couple of evenings.

IMG_20191216_205502.jpg

I'll need to trim it back a bit, and grab a harmonic/bolt type wheel puller.

Close inspection and lack of any progress whatsoever despite pretty consistent efforts has me thinking this thing may have been JB welded on or something... Hopefully is that if that is true, there is minimal coverage.
 
"front wheel bearings should be serviced,repacked adjusted and shimmed if need be from time to time under normal use. "

I've adjusted and repacked a lot of automotive front wheel bearings over the years but I've never heard of doing that to sealed ball bearings. I'd love to be enlightened.
only seal I see is the seal on the outside of the bearing no seals inside unless there are different bearing designs out there
 
I started making a puller with some scrap hardwood, then got sidelined by some kind of stomach flu for the past couple of days. Hoping to be back at it the next couple of evenings.

View attachment 136472

I'll need to trim it back a bit, and grab a harmonic/bolt type wheel puller.

Close inspection and lack of any progress whatsoever despite pretty consistent efforts has me thinking this thing may have been JB welded on or something... Hopefully is that if that is true, there is minimal coverage.
I had a machinist make me a 1 inch thick steel split design like u did the hole is exactly the same size of the steering column when bolted together with 1/2 inch grade 5 fine thread bolts no slop fit like yours with wood but steel instead but it ruins the bottom plastic lip that is on the bottom of the steering wheel I use a 2 jaw puller if the wheel comes off most times it dont
 
i have used a method for many years with stubborn car and truck wheels, by the way kroil is really good, on most of the turbine jobs ive been on ,many over the years, kroil wud be in our tool trailer by the gallons, now, heat the shaft directly with yer wifes hair dryer, dont tell her ur using it for this,it will somehow contaminate her hair dryer making it necessary for you to buy her the newest and greatest dryer, heat the shaft untill u cant touch it with uur bare hand, put kroii in there, let it set, now stand ovr the wheel, pulling up , wring the wheel back and forth, left to right, turn it 90 degrees and do it again, then 90 and do it again, put that dandy puller on there, load it up with plenty of tension and go away, give it plenty of time to consider its shortcomings, mebbe heat it again tomorrow, wring it again after the heat and kroil, i think u will find it laying loose one morning, dont put so much wringing in there that u bend or break the wheel, good luck,buck
 
I had a machinist make me a 1 inch thick steel split design like u did the hole is exactly the same size of the steering column when bolted together with 1/2 inch grade 5 fine thread bolts no slop fit like yours with wood but steel instead but it ruins the bottom plastic lip that is on the bottom of the steering wheel I use a 2 jaw puller if the wheel comes off most times it dont

I was lucky the holesaw bit I had laying around was the right size, 1-1/2".

My benchtop Ryobi drill press and bandsaw struggled a bit thru the thick hardwood, but made it. Can't wait to expand my shop space and get some full size tools.
 
how do we know that this steering wheel wasn't just removed earlier? way too easy way too fast I would like to see more like the one he removed than only 30 seconds of video I have pulled steering wheels the plastic off the hub and no way would this method pulled the wheel so easily Somehow we are not shown the rest of this
I know the guy and he's not one to play games. Besides, I've won a lot of money over the years with guys that said I couldn't remove a steering wheel in less than 3 minutes. (y)
 
i have used a method for many years with stubborn car and truck wheels, by the way kroil is really good, on most of the turbine jobs ive been on ,many over the years, kroil wud be in our tool trailer by the gallons, now, heat the shaft directly with yer wifes hair dryer, dont tell her ur using it for this,it will somehow contaminate her hair dryer making it necessary for you to buy her the newest and greatest dryer, heat the shaft untill u cant touch it with uur bare hand, put kroii in there, let it set, now stand ovr the wheel, pulling up , wring the wheel back and forth, left to right, turn it 90 degrees and do it again, then 90 and do it again, put that dandy puller on there, load it up with plenty of tension and go away, give it plenty of time to consider its shortcomings, mebbe heat it again tomorrow, wring it again after the heat and kroil, i think u will find it laying loose one morning, dont put so much wringing in there that u bend or break the wheel, good luck,buck

Thanks for the tip! I actually have a heat gun so I can leave hers inside (y)

I have been on the lookout for some kroil, didn't see it at Ace or Fleet Farm so far, maybe I'll just order some up online if Tractor Supply doesn't have it.
 
I know the guy and he's not one to play games. Besides, I've won a lot of money over the years with guys that said I couldn't remove a steering wheel in less than 3 minutes. (y)

With the amount of time I've spent so far, I might just drive up there and see how much I gotta bet ya :ROFLMAO:
 
Thanks for the tip! I actually have a heat gun so I can leave hers inside (y)

I have been on the lookout for some kroil, didn't see it at Ace or Fleet Farm so far, maybe I'll just order some up online if Tractor Supply doesn't have it.
when i say wring, i dont mean turn i mean pull up first to one side then alternately the other, ive never had a wheel that didnt come off to this method, buck
 
when i say wring, i dont mean turn i mean pull up first to one side then alternately the other, ive never had a wheel that didnt come off to this method, buck
by the way u can make yr own very good penetrating oil, just cannot use open flame, half and half acetone and auto trans fluid, has been tested an c orresponds as being equal to any commercial oil
 
the reason the heating and cooling works so well is when heated, it expells available air then when cooled it sucks the oil, whatever is used back into mated surfacesl essentially lubricating the fitted surfaces,buckvotive candles is also good for doing this, rub the candle on heated surfaces at the crack, when cooled it sucks wax back into mated surface, buck
 
I know the guy and he's not one to play games. Besides, I've won a lot of money over the years with guys that said I couldn't remove a steering wheel in less than 3 minutes. (y)
then I need to see a wheel off a cub that's been outside in the rain snow for 30-40 years the nut and shaft exposed come off so easily and didn't I miss seeing rusty threads on the shaft the video I seen? I need to know the WHOLE story
 
then I need to see a wheel off a cub that's been outside in the rain snow for 30-40 years the nut and shaft exposed come off so easily and didn't I miss seeing rusty threads on the shaft the video I seen? I need to know the WHOLE story
We've been using this method for 20+ years! No one has anything to prove other than it works! If you don't believe it, don't use it.
 
I never mentioned sealed bearings and none of my numerous cubs even have them. As far as I know, they did not come with sealed bearings. I know the later models have a grease fitting on the inner side and I assume it is supposed to be lubed now an then.:)

Call me old school but repacking and servicing wheel bearings on cars was one of the very 1st thinks I learned as a kid messing with cars back in the day. Of course they were a different type of bearing altogether.

Do they even make a sealed bearing with an outside lip to keep them from sliding into the hub of a Cub wheel?

I looked at a "restored" 122 last week at an auction house just for the hell of it. New tires, new paint, nice seat that was sitting on 3 layers of 2X10. I could turn the steering wheel about 1/2 turn before any movement was seen at the wheels. Knelt down beside the front wheels and grabbed hold and was able to move the front of the tractor back and forth nearly 4 inches. This is why we need to maintain these machines on order to keep them in good working order. Imagine trying to mow a straight line with that rig.
BTW, I learned later it gaveled down at $350.
 
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