mgonitzke
Well-known member
Oh man, you really don't know what you do t know.
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Overhauling my Cub Cadet 72
- Thread starter Benjamin Gustafson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Benjamin Gustafson
Member
Thank you for the advice on paint. I am also looking for a new seat but I can repair min if i can't find one much cheaper than the $100 price i am seeing.
Once again, it was about the color match. If it looks fine after three years then it's fine. You come across as a paint expert and, if so, please enlighten the community with your expertise. You have great technical knowledge of our Cubs but I've noted over the years that you can be sometimes abrupt (like here) with some responses; you might tone that down.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
The original question was not about the color match. He asked "what brand of paint should I use to repaint it?"
I am by no means a paint expert, but I have painted a lot of stuff with varying types and quality levels of paint, from cheap spray cans (I've found Majic and Krylon to be the worst) to $400+/gal catalyzed polyurethane. You generally get what you pay for with paint, and it is absolutely not all the same. Single-stage auto paint cures a lot faster and harder than any rattle can enamel. Hardener in enamel helps cure time and improves the shine, but in my experience it still is tough to get it as nice. As I stated before, for enamel without hardener, 6 months to a year is required for much durability to be developed. The deck on my 782 was painted with Rust-Oleum about 8 years ago. That paint is nice and hard now, but it was very easily scratched at first. I'm sorry you are offended by me pointing out facts.
Looks a bit hypocritical for you to be lecturing anyone about the tone of their posts.
In the original post I mentioned the high quality of Irongard and said "I'm not crazy about majic but it is a perfect match for the yellow on my CC102." I acknowledged that there are better paints. Looked at a lotta color samples and knowingly passed on higher quality to get the best match but you couldn't let it lie. When you say "you don't know what you don't know" that is rude behavior and does not belong on this site.
Benjamin Gustafson
Member
Is there any way to easily take off the bearing on the clutch/break assembly? And are mylar or vinal decals better?
Are you talking the front PTO bearing or the throw out bearing on the driveshaft here??
Benjamin Gustafson
Member
the one on the driveshaft.
Benjamin Gustafson
Member
If anyone knows of anywhere to get the rear tires (6-12) could they share that? All the ones i am seeing that look decent are crazy expensive.
The driveshaft and clutch plates will have to be dis-assembled, preferably out of the tractor, in order to remove the bearing. You may also have to resurface the clutch plates as well as the wear parts of the throw out lever if badly and unevenly worn.
I take it you are having driveshaft issues?
I take it you are having driveshaft issues?
Benjamin Gustafson
Member
No, I just want to replace the bearing if there is an easy way to do it while i have the tractor apart.
Again, you will have to dis-assemble the clutch from one end or the other in order to remove the bearing.
There is no easier way. Check the teaser spring also as it may be broken.
The bearing is spring loaded to the driveshaft & held in place with the Spirol pins.
There is no easier way. Check the teaser spring also as it may be broken.
The bearing is spring loaded to the driveshaft & held in place with the Spirol pins.
Last edited:
HKCooper44
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2023
- Messages
- 141
I redid my '64 Cadet 100 back in 2003, so there's alot I don't remember, but I split the tractor to redo the clutch, and since the shaft had wear grooves in it, I replaced EVERYTHING, with the exception of the pressure plate and fork. If I recall, the fork is acctuated by a special nut with a spherical head, and I made one out of a self-locking AN aircraft nut. Going this far in a refurb is not a time to go cheap!
