Overhauling my Cub Cadet 72

[mgonitzke]

HK, please keep up, it's about the match. Paint is paint; is it mediocre if after three years it's still glossy. Jack

Oh man, you really don't know what you do t know.

 

[Benjamin Gustafson]

Thank you for the advice on paint. I am also looking for a new seat but I can repair min if i can't find one much cheaper than the $100 price i am seeing.

 

[jim roos]

add more hardener that label says it take very long time to dry doing that i have had great luck also will really make it shine

 

[jack casey]

Oh man, you really don't know what you do t know.

Once again, it was about the color match. If it looks fine after three years then it's fine. You come across as a paint expert and, if so, please enlighten the community with your expertise. You have great technical knowledge of our Cubs but I've noted over the years that you can be sometimes abrupt (like here) with some responses; you might tone that down.

 

[mgonitzke]

Once again, it was about the color match. If it looks fine after three years then it's fine. You come across as a paint expert and, if so, please enlighten the community with your expertise. You have great technical knowledge of our Cubs but I've noted over the years that you can be sometimes abrupt (like here) with some responses; you might tone that down.

The original question was not about the color match. He asked "what brand of paint should I use to repaint it?"

I am by no means a paint expert, but I have painted a lot of stuff with varying types and quality levels of paint, from cheap spray cans (I've found Majic and Krylon to be the worst) to $400+/gal catalyzed polyurethane. You generally get what you pay for with paint, and it is absolutely not all the same. Single-stage auto paint cures a lot faster and harder than any rattle can enamel. Hardener in enamel helps cure time and improves the shine, but in my experience it still is tough to get it as nice. As I stated before, for enamel without hardener, 6 months to a year is required for much durability to be developed. The deck on my 782 was painted with Rust-Oleum about 8 years ago. That paint is nice and hard now, but it was very easily scratched at first. I'm sorry you are offended by me pointing out facts.

HK, please keep up, it's about the match. Paint is paint; is it mediocre if after three years it's still glossy. Jack

Looks a bit hypocritical for you to be lecturing anyone about the tone of their posts.

 

[jack casey]

The original question was not about the color match. He asked "what brand of paint should I use to repaint it?"

I am by no means a paint expert, but I have painted a lot of stuff with varying types and quality levels of paint, from cheap spray cans (I've found Majic and Krylon to be the worst) to $400+/gal catalyzed polyurethane. You generally get what you pay for with paint, and it is absolutely not all the same. Single-stage auto paint cures a lot faster and harder than any rattle can enamel. Hardener in enamel helps cure time and improves the shine, but in my experience it still is tough to get it as nice. As I stated before, for enamel without hardener, 6 months to a year is required for much durability to be developed. The deck on my 782 was painted with Rust-Oleum about 8 years ago. That paint is nice and hard now, but it was very easily scratched at first. I'm sorry you are offended by me pointing out facts.


Looks a bit hypocritical for you to be lecturing anyone about the tone of their posts.

98

 

[jack casey]

In the original post I mentioned the high quality of Irongard and said "I'm not crazy about majic but it is a perfect match for the yellow on my CC102." I acknowledged that there are better paints. Looked at a lotta color samples and knowingly passed on higher quality to get the best match but you couldn't let it lie. When you say "you don't know what you don't know" that is rude behavior and does not belong on this site.