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Archive through November 01, 2009
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
junderwood
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- John Underwood
Don,
Give Scott at Madson's a call and see if he can get tehm. Not sure if he'll ship up there or not but it would be worth a call. Click his box above for the phone number.
Give Scott at Madson's a call and see if he can get tehm. Not sure if he'll ship up there or not but it would be worth a call. Click his box above for the phone number.
John Underwood
Well thanks for that idea, I did call them and spoke to scott. The rubber mounts are $33.30 for each corner(2 rubber mounts) so 4x33.30 is $133.20 to do the job and he has to order them also. WOW
. I will have to look and see if i really need all the mounts. Thanks Don T
Well thanks for that idea, I did call them and spoke to scott. The rubber mounts are $33.30 for each corner(2 rubber mounts) so 4x33.30 is $133.20 to do the job and he has to order them also. WOW
bbrigham
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- Brendan Brigham
Frank...Is the fuel filter for a gravity feed system ? If it's for a fuel pump system that could be causing problems. Another thought...is it losing spark for sure when it quits ? Could possibly be the points push rod. Some are aluminum and the side that rides the cam mushrooms and the overall length gets shorter, I have seen that cause problem a few times.There should be a measurement in the Kohler manual. You can replace them with a steel push rod.
PAUL D. - I looked the Agri-Fab vac's over really well at Blain's Farm & Fleet. They were about $1000 back then, now about $1400-1500. Too much $$$ for they way they were made IMHO.
The pieces I added to the kick-up on the blades were about 1" tall and 1/8" thk. and whatever the length the actual kick-up on the blades were. I think it was on the center blade the washers & nut for the belt tensioner pivot stuck too far down and I had to grind a small low spot on the added wing.
The factory blades are made from 5140 steel if I remember correctly, it welds pretty well with mild steel MIG wire. The added wings really make the mower move clippings & air.
The pieces I added to the kick-up on the blades were about 1" tall and 1/8" thk. and whatever the length the actual kick-up on the blades were. I think it was on the center blade the washers & nut for the belt tensioner pivot stuck too far down and I had to grind a small low spot on the added wing.
The factory blades are made from 5140 steel if I remember correctly, it welds pretty well with mild steel MIG wire. The added wings really make the mower move clippings & air.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis:
That's still not a bad price compared to what Sc.g gets for their setup. I paid $2100.00 and that's for the quick dump 10 bushel clamshell. I know this is meant for commercial use and does really work well, but for homeowner use, it's overkill - it was an impulse buy when I bought the Tiger Cub (see - it IS a cub, just the wrong family...). Lesson: never buy yard care implements right after a long day of working in the yard.....
Frank: If it was a bad ignition switch, it'd drop out totally during cranking - as a matter of fact, get a 12 volt test light and make sure that it isn't dropping out while cranking - a test light is easier to detect that with than a meter. Put the probe on the + terminal of the coil. You may see the light dim a little during cranking, but if it goes out altogether or blinks, something's bad further up the line towards the battery. If you put it on the point ( - ) side of the coil, you should see it blink every time the points close .....
That's still not a bad price compared to what Sc.g gets for their setup. I paid $2100.00 and that's for the quick dump 10 bushel clamshell. I know this is meant for commercial use and does really work well, but for homeowner use, it's overkill - it was an impulse buy when I bought the Tiger Cub (see - it IS a cub, just the wrong family...). Lesson: never buy yard care implements right after a long day of working in the yard.....
Frank: If it was a bad ignition switch, it'd drop out totally during cranking - as a matter of fact, get a 12 volt test light and make sure that it isn't dropping out while cranking - a test light is easier to detect that with than a meter. Put the probe on the + terminal of the coil. You may see the light dim a little during cranking, but if it goes out altogether or blinks, something's bad further up the line towards the battery. If you put it on the point ( - ) side of the coil, you should see it blink every time the points close .....
junderwood
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- John Underwood
Don,
In that case see if McMaster Carr has anything. The have a mount that is similar to one used on my green tractors that works great and is a lot cheaper. Might be worth a try. I don't know what they look like so I can't help with looking them up for you.
In that case see if McMaster Carr has anything. The have a mount that is similar to one used on my green tractors that works great and is a lot cheaper. Might be worth a try. I don't know what they look like so I can't help with looking them up for you.
KENDELL - What I need to do is come up with some good way to get rid of all the clippings & leaves, like Jerry uses His for garden mulch. I used to be able to get rid of a small bit years ago that way. But I normally get about 20-25 loads. Last time I tried burning them "s-l-o-w-l-y and the fire still smoldered for a week!
Situation I have now with the yard is all the leaves are down, well at least 90-95%, but the neighbor's corn on three sides of the lot still isn't combined. I still have all the husks, leaves, and chunks of cob left to deal with. I'm hoping Neighbor combines His eight acres so I only have to mow the one last time.
Situation I have now with the yard is all the leaves are down, well at least 90-95%, but the neighbor's corn on three sides of the lot still isn't combined. I still have all the husks, leaves, and chunks of cob left to deal with. I'm hoping Neighbor combines His eight acres so I only have to mow the one last time.
