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  Thread Originator Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through October 06, 2014 Kraig McConaughey "K
 30   10-10-14  11:53 am
by Jim Patchett (Jpat
Archive through October 10, 2014 Amy J. Kleyla (Akley
 30   10-12-14  12:34 pm
by Shane Peterson (Sp
Archive through October 12, 2014 Shane Peterson (Spet
 30   10-14-14  01:16 pm
by Shultzie (Kshultz)
Archive through October 14, 2014 Shultzie (Kshultz)
 30   10-16-14  12:16 pm
by adam sensenig (Ase
Archive through October 16, 2014 Shane Peterson (Spet
 30   10-20-14  11:36 am
by Jim Patchett (Jpat
Archive through October 20, 2014 dustin duncan (Djdun
 30   10-22-14  08:27 am
by David Schwandt (Ds
Archive through October 22, 2014 Wayne Shytle (Wshytl
 30   10-24-14  06:36 pm
by jeff l baker (Jbak
Archive through October 24, 2014 Brandon James Kohner
 30   10-27-14  10:47 am
by Charlie "Digger" P
  ClosedClosed: New threads not accepted on this page        

Use this topic only for discussion about IH Garden Tractors and Equipment built prior to 1981.

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Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy matt moredick (Mmoredick) on Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 10:37 am:

Josh and Dave,
thanks for the help. I want the tiller but it was an act of congress just getting this tractor from the woman.
Now that i know the hitch is not part of the tiller, i am keeping it. Realistically i can keep the tiller mount plate too but if i do not pick it up from her, i feel the new owner will need it. I have no idea what the tiller looks like, it was not at the same house. The rear plate has either been painted or the tiller was not used. It doesn't look like a PTO box has ever been mounted to it.
Do i need both of the lower 3pt hitch plates or can i get away with just the inner one? I am just using the 3pt for moving a small utility trailer around for leaf clean up.
See link for image of the back plate
http://s125.photobucket.com/user/muck76/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140925_222553_zpsab48be7b.jpg.html

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Josh Spicer (Jlspicer) on Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 09:31 am:

Matt,
I concur with Dave. Looks home made. Didn't cut any corners on it, though. Looks HEAVY duty. You should try to snag the tiller as well if possible.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy David Schwandt (Dschwandt) on Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 08:37 am:

Matt, IMHO It looks to be a homemade "Custom by Cobble Craft' combo sleeve hitch-tow plate-upper 3 point lift pin set up!! For sure heavy duty!!
Looks like it would come in handy to fine tune a rear blade for grading work providing you had the lock-out pin in place in the lift rod linkage.

Does the 3 pt lift rod and arm come with the tractor? You will need it to use the 3 pt.

If this abortion in your picture comes with the tractor , heck, take it!! You will need the lower hitch to use it though, one like this....

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy matt moredick (Mmoredick) on Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 08:05 am:

Good morning
can some one help me identify this hitch I received with my 124. Im not buying the tiller they had for this tractor and am pulling the rear plate off for that. I wasn't sure if this hitch was for it or a different 3 point.I cannot get the image to appear, just click the link.
Thanks
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p46/muck76/Mobile%20Uploads/20140925_222601_zps2b19c391.jpg

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 04:26 pm:

Wayne S.
I'm thinkin there's more wear issues with it's owner!


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 04:07 pm:

Thanks Charlie. I didn't realize the hydro oil temp was that critical...especially here in NC. It's been in the mid to upper 70s all week.

I think I got it as tuned as it can be. I also think there are some wear issues inside this pump.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Scott Nicklas (Snicklas) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 03:16 pm:

Matt,

Yes that is correct. On all IH Cast Iron Transmission Cub Cadets, the proper fill level is even with the bottom of the fill/check plug. When I top mine off, I put in fluid until is just starts to run back out of the plug and reinstall the plug.

This is for the Gear Drive or Hydros. Just they hold a different amount of fluid. The hydro fill/check plug is mounted much higher than a gear drive plug is.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy matt moredick (Mmoredick) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 02:59 pm:

will the 124 with proper amount of transmission oil be level with the fill plug?
thanks matt

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 12:58 pm:

Wayne S.
Jack BOTH tires off the ground. Make sure that the oil of hot and not stone cold.

I personally adjust the linkage and not bracket at any time.
Do one or the other, just not both. It always worked for me. But my hydro always liked me!


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 12:25 pm:

I have a situation I need help with. I'm trying to adjust the linkage on a 1450. I've done this several times before and never had this occur. I jacked the tractor up (one rear) and tapped the proper bracket down until the wheel stopped turning. I then adjusted the shifter to the neutral position, tightened the bracket and tested the adjustment. It still creeped when the pedal was pushed down so I did the same adjustment a couple more times. Now, standing beside the tractor it will creep forward. I can pull the shifter back until it stops and after a couple of seconds it starts creeping the other way all by itself. It also goes from quiet (pump) to the growling we all know and love in a hydro. I didn't go into the pump on this one so I don't know the internal condition but it works "fine" as far as I can tell.

I feel sure this has happened to others in the past but with my luck it may be a first.

Any and all input will be appreciated.

BTW, the "find neutral" linkage (the one with the clevis) is adjusted and there's about 3/32" clearance in the slot when pedal is depressed. In other words, it doesn't bottom out in the cam plate slot.

HELP!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 11:51 am:

2 link chains give you a much smoother ride on hard or frozen ground, as well as more traction. Even in the dirt.


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Scott Nicklas (Snicklas) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 11:17 am:

Michael,

Yes, that is exactly what it means.... the number of links on the side chain between the cross links.

2 link chains:

2 Link Chains

4 link chains:

4 Link Chains

(Borrowed from the internet)

I have only used 4 link chains, and have no experience with 2 link chains, or the V-Bar chains....

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Michael P. Horozko (Mhorozko) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 11:11 am:

what is the differance between two and four link tire chains? Are you refurring to the number of links between the chain that actually ride on the tire tread?

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 06:54 am:

Don T.-

You might try static timing. I found it takes practice and patience but I've never been disappointed when I finally get everything "right on". Once you get the points right be sure and check them a couple of times after you've tightened the locking screw. I've found I always have to go back and readjust a few times. The tightening can throw things off a degree or two easily. Once I do get the correct reading after I've tightened the screw the engine seems to always fire immediately and I feel confident the timing is correct. Also, .020 is only a starting point. I think I've only had one engine end up at that setting. I've had the point gap end up anywhere from .017 to .022.

Another thing I do is once I get the "S" mark centered in the sight hole on the compression stroke I make corresponding marks on the left rear side of the engine between the flywheel screen and the housing. This way I can easily see that the timing mark is centered without having to walk around the tractor every time. It may sound crazy but I've found it works just fine.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy joshua donald stertz (Jstertz) on Wednesday, October 29, 2014 - 12:07 am:

Art--Classic video, except for all the cold and snow!!!! LOL


Bit Hard by the "Cub Bug"
Josh Stertz


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 10:02 pm:

Charlie

I do you D grease and a protectant used in fuse panels for alum wire . it was designed to prevent moisture and arcing in electrical connections. I hope someone would know about trimming a cub if a deg early or later in trimming would make them start sooner. I guess I will just have to try it and see what happens .


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 06:57 pm:

Don T.
IMHO,
Dielectric grease on all electrical connections on tractors that are stored and not used at least on a weekly bases is a must.
Especially if they are subject to humidity and weather changes.


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 08:44 am:

What a week I `am having; three cubs would not start . all three were running and parked in storage shed , drove them in there. well all three needed new coils . go figer . So I ordered new blue coils and point savers for two Cubs and hope to keep a few that will be more dependable . last year it was condensers lol. one other timing thing seems one cub will start every time on the second roll the other will roll at least 4 revolutions before it starts . what can I do to improve starting on that tractor. all start with no smoke and burn no oil ?? would 1 deg early advanced timing help ??


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Mike Patterson (Mpatterson) on Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 04:58 am:

Well, I am going to give it a go on the 782 and hope it does good, after all, its an IH! There shouldn't be any doubt. Hey Art, cool video! If you have more, e-mail me the links for them if you don't mind, love watching that Cub of yours work. Makes me smile in the morning.


Now EVERYONE wants a Cub!

Beware of the wife, she might find the rest of your Cubs!


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy stanley lewis (Slewis) on Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 12:59 am:

charlie/lewis p thanks for info...

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay) on Monday, October 27, 2014 - 10:53 pm:

Pardon me for stepping to the off-topic side here for a moment, but I gotta comment...

Charlie says:

"Dunno about any other off topic super machine but the 450 was an option with a 1572 and a 2072 and probably the rest as well. A brand new KT17 would do well with a 450, but add 30 years to it and I still say it will work it really hard.

Charlie's right...

We run an 1872 with a 60" Haban deck as our summer mower-rig. It will pull my fat side up some steep hills while mowing thick summer grass and never miss a beat.

We run the #450 on a 2072 in the white-stuff. The engine in the 2072 has had a relatively recent rebuild, but the good old #450 will haul that 2072 right down to it's knees if you don't watch it in the deep stuff. Then again, it's all worth it when you see this...

CLICKY LINKY: Minus 22 Degrees January 29, 2014


Remember that time Kraig lost.... Oh never mind... He found it!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL) (Sblunier) on Monday, October 27, 2014 - 04:39 pm:

Snow blower belts:

I have had the opposite experience with thrower belts. I run a hopped up QA-42B with an 18hp Mag in a 782 and have run the last 5+ seasons on 1 belt....but it must be tight. A positive belt tension stop is a MUST to keep it from backing off and getting loose/HOT....that ruins belts fast.

QA-42, 450, QA-36, etc........they all pull hard when pushed to operate well.

Again: Hydro for infinite speed (and hyd. lift!!!!), LOTS OF HORSEPOWER!!!!, and then feed it until the Kohler really barks..........at that point you've done all you can do!!!!

(then again, maybe the belt success I enjoy is because I bought 2 belts the first time........only way to guarantee you won't need the spare is to buy the spare!!!!!)


"There's nothing more peaceful than plowing a field, chances are you'll do your best thinking there"


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Monday, October 27, 2014 - 02:54 pm:

JONATHAN - Good DEAL!

I did the same swap of axle carriers on my 72 7-8 yrs ago. My outer bushings were worn a LOT, both axle seals leaked, had a 123 partial roller chassis, frame & rear end, put those axle carriers with needle bearings and new seals on the 72. Rolls easier and no leaks now!

My axles were O-K so reused them.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jonathan Danial Salatino (Jsalatino) on Monday, October 27, 2014 - 02:20 pm:

Dennis F ... I already picked up new axle seals for it . I swapped the axles out with another pair , had a few messed up threads. And changed the axle housings for a set that has bearings in them.

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