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  Thread Originator Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through June 09, 2015 Holden D. Moyer (Hmo
 30   06-10-15  06:14 pm
by Holden D. Moyer (H
Archive through June 10, 2015 jeff l baker (Jbaker
 30   06-13-15  03:10 pm
by Earl LaMott (Elamo
Archive through June 13, 2015 Clark Miracle (Cmira
 30   06-16-15  09:29 pm
by Home of the Plow S
Archive through June 16, 2015 Home of the Plow Spe
 30   06-19-15  12:29 pm
by Clark Miracle (Cmi
Archive through June 19, 2015 Ron R. Schmitt (Rrsc
 30   06-23-15  05:18 pm
by jeff l baker (Jbak
Archive through June 24, 2015 Holden D. Moyer (Hmo
 30   06-26-15  05:29 pm
by Allen Schumacher (
  ClosedClosed: New threads not accepted on this page        

Use this topic only for discussion about IH Garden Tractors and Equipment built prior to 1981.

EVERYONE must edit their profiles to UNCHECK the box that says Clear the cookie when I exit my browser!

There's NO such thing as a stupid question!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 08:47 pm:

Gerry, I figure everyone is busy with pre 4th of July prep.


Charlie says I'm an INSTIGATOR.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Gerry Ide (Kide) on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 08:10 pm:

This is serious...... is this like finding the far end of the Internet? Have all Cub topics been exhausted??


"An opinion should be the result of thought, not a substitute for it." - Jef_Mallett

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 12:38 pm:

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Charlie says I'm an INSTIGATOR.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Nic Bextermueller (Nbextermueller) on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 10:46 am:

Ahhhh..... They sure dont build them like they used to.

Now it's a bunch of China steel and plastic.


2015 season is coming!! Visit www.pantherpulling.com for more info!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 09:55 am:



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2

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Charlie says I'm an INSTIGATOR.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 05:15 am:


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy jeff l baker (Jbaker) on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:35 pm:

and 14 minutes


IH wide frame hydros are the cats meow,,Why own anything else

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Gerry Ide (Kide) on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:18 pm:

24 hours??


"An opinion should be the result of thought, not a substitute for it." - Jef_Mallett

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Clark Miracle (Cmiracle) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 10:04 pm:

Thanks for everyone's help!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Clark Miracle (Cmiracle) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 10:04 pm:

I got spark! Now I kinda feel silly, after studying matt's instructions I noticed that I had the points wire hooked up to the adjustment screw instead of where it was supposed to be, therefore completely bypassing the points. odd thing is that that was where it was hooked up when I got the tractor...

It's sparking strong so I got it put back together and I'm trying to start it now.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jim Patchett (Jpatchett) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 09:54 pm:

Clark,

I'm thinking the points are not closing when they should and therefore the EMF doesn't get induced to energize the secondary coil windings and create spark at the plug. The EMF is occurring in the coil when the ignition circuit is opened by the key switch. The slightest gap between the points when they should be closed will keep the ignition from working.

Disconnect the points from the coil/condenser. Place and ohm meter across the points when they are in the closed position the resistance should be zero. Any value more than this is a problem.

Matts static timing procedure also checks this.

Jim

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Allen Schumacher (Aschumacher) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 07:24 pm:

Clark, the other end of the test setup is a shiny piece of tractor frame or if you have enough test wire battery negative.
Matts site is www.mgonitzke.net click on image of a tractor.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Clark Miracle (Cmiracle) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 07:08 pm:

I also cleaned up, reinstalled and gapped the original points. No change still

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Clark Miracle (Cmiracle) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 07:05 pm:

Okay, now I want to check that I'm doing things correctly. Where are the best places to check the coil voltage, the terminal and? Also, where can I find Matt g's static timing method? Couldn't find it with a search...

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy mike conway (Mconway) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 11:15 am:

the 42 is coming along....couple more pieces and hopefully she'll be cutting like the beast she is.... guards and blades now but we got a bunch of rain coming so no mowing today...thanx for comments and a huge thanx to ccs for helping me "git 'er done...."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL) (Sblunier) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 09:57 am:

Jumper 12v direct from battery to coil and try it, if it's in the tractor wiring you will find out real quick...... remove jumper to shut off.. .


"There's nothing more peaceful than plowing a field, chances are you'll do your best thinking there"


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jim Patchett (Jpatchett) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 07:23 am:

Jeremiah,

The schematic is correct for the most part, just does not show the exact/detailed contact setup of the switch. When the key is in the start position there is still a closed circuit for the ignition.

Clark,

The spark occurring when the key is turned off tells us that the ignition circuit is somewhat operational, i.e. good coil and condenser. Turning off the key (opening contacts in the switch) is the same as opening the contacts on the points. The points are not performing as they should, why?

If the points are used/old clean contacts with a small CLEAN file. Slip the file between the contacts and move back and forth several times. Would not hurt to do on new points, just a few strokes.

With the key in the run position and the points in the closed position open the points with a non-metallic, non-conductive object, like a dry popsicle stick or such. You could tape up a screw driver with electrical tape. Gently pry on the plastic arm of the breaker point assembly. There should be a faint spark created when the gap gets large enough and then at spark at the plug, it will appear simultaneously. This will be hard to see in a well light garage or outdoors in the daytime.

If there is spark at the plug, then gap adjustment is likely the problem.

If there is NO spark, breaker point assembly is defective or grounding elsewhere.

Or the switch like Matt stated.

Jim

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 07:03 am:

Clark/Jeremiah-

I'm not awake yet, but I'm starting to think there is an error in the table for the ignition switch positions. I am 99% sure 'start' is B+I+S based on testing many ignition switches in my day. If not, there is no ignition in the 'start' position, and the engine would only be able to start while coasting down with the switch in the 'on' position. I've had several switches fail like that.

If you are careful they can be taken apart, cleaned back up, and put back together. The problem usually is that some of the grease that lubes the mechanism inside has gotten on the contacts.


Original, 582, 682 w/ Kwik-Way loader, 782, 782D, 1872 My Cub Site (FINALLY fixed my website)

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jim Patchett (Jpatchett) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 06:53 am:

Earl,

Yes the valve lifters are adjustable. See the Kohler K series manual for specs and adjustment procedure.

Jim

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Luther Ray Hinds (Lhinds) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 05:33 am:

Clark if the points do not ground the coil terminal it cannot create spark for the plug to fire. I solved the problem on my 124 by making sure the points were grounding when closed. 11.6 volts sounds low to me at the coil. You should have whatever is across the battery terminals at the coil if all connections are good. Have you tried a jumper from the + battery post directly to the coil and a jumper from the - battery post to the condenser ground? Hope some of this makes sense.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jeremiah Chamberlin (Jchamberlin) on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 01:26 am:

Clark: If I'm following the implications of Mr. Patchett's question correctly, the spark is occurring when the key switch is in the ignition position while the motor is still turning; but when the key is in the start position, you're not getting a spark.

The difference between the key in the Ignition position and the Start position is that in the Start position, current has to pass through the safety switch before it gets to the solenoid. If you're reading 12 volts at the coil with the key in the Ignition position, that doesn't mean it's still there when the key is in the Start position.

Like Kendal Harvey said, you need to check your voltage at the coil while cranking.

For Reference:
71Schematic

In fact, after checking the schematic, I'm afraid I don't understand how the coil gets 12 volts while cranking. If the key switch only connects terminals "B" and "S" when it is in the Start position, I don't see how the coil can ever get 12 volts while cranking. Either the diagram is wrong, or I don't really understand how the start circuit works.

Either way, I would be Ohming out the key switch.


Kohlers are kool

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Clark Miracle (Cmiracle) on Friday, June 26, 2015 - 11:03 pm:

Jim- the spark occurs when the key is turned off.

Ken- Tomorrow I'll do the timing, and check the points electrically.

Thanks for all the ideas so far! I'll keep yall updated, this site is a great resource as always!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Earl LaMott (Elamott) on Friday, June 26, 2015 - 09:27 pm:

I am back regarding my 129 issue.
My question now is. Are the valve tappets adjustable? I purchased new valves and they are short to bring the valves into specs.I rebuilt the engine in 09 but I have forgotten the steps that I did. Forgive me I am old so don't laugh.
Any comments appreciated.
Earl

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jim Patchett (Jpatchett) on Friday, June 26, 2015 - 06:35 pm:

Clark,

I would be looking closer at the points and see if they are functioning correctly and double check the gap. The tractor has a brief spark when you open and close the ignition switch. This is what the points should do, but I don't thing they are. Can you determine when the spark occurs, key going on or key going off?

Jim

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