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  Thread Originator Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through August 30, 2014 Jim Patchett (Jpatch
 30   09-01-14  11:57 am
by Wayne Shytle (Wshy
Archive through September 01, 2014 Marty A. Gwin (Mgwin
 30   09-05-14  01:14 pm
by Ryan McShane (Rmcs
Archive through September 05, 2014 Josh Spicer (Jlspice
 30   09-07-14  02:20 pm
by Paul E. Funk (Pfun
Archive through September 07, 2014 Jim Storma (Jstorma)
 30   09-09-14  08:50 pm
by brad reese (Breese
Archive through September 10, 2014 Brian Wittman (Bwitt
 30   09-11-14  07:56 pm
by Mike Frade (Mfrade
Archive through September 11, 2014 Tom Hoffman (Thoffma
 30   09-13-14  05:57 am
by Mike Patterson (Mp
Archive through September 13, 2014 John C. Lazar (Jclaz
 30   09-17-14  06:54 am
by brad reese (Breese
  ClosedClosed: New threads not accepted on this page        

Use this topic only for discussion about IH Garden Tractors and Equipment built prior to 1981.

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Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 02:02 pm:

DAVID - Thanks for getting back to us on the oil temps. That golf tee stuck in the "oil" sure puts things into perspective.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Nic Bextermueller (Nbextermueller) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 02:01 pm:

I would say, an oil cooler is a great idea for summer work. Not so good for winter work.

I say go for it. And let us now how it works. I think cooler are supposed to be put after a filter and before the return to the engine. Longevity will be your only sign that it's working.


2014 season is coming!! Visit www.pantherpulling.com to get the 2014 rulebook and see all the event action and results. Lucas Oil is back on board for the 2014 Championship with 7X's more product to hand out! Come join us!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy David Kirk (Dkirk) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 01:01 pm:

Dennis -

This was a test I contemplated doing but never did. Reason was that I'd have to make up a special drain plug with a thermocouple installed, then drain the oil in order to install, then remove abd drain oil again after test was complete. Not a bad job, but other things were pressing at the time.

Most of my experience with oil temps in small, air-cooled engines were gleaned during my tenure with Tecumseh Products Corp. It was not uncommon to see oil temperatures run over 300 deg F in the all aluminum engines on a hot day. Cast iron block engines would actually run cooler oil temps due to lower conductivity of cast iron, the heat path being from cylinder to oil sump. These high operating temperatures are what causes the oil to oxidize and darken, and viscosity to rapidly increase. The 25 hour oil change requirement is the best preventative for preventing lubrication-related failures. Running a full synthetic can easily double the change time interval.
gort


Muglety Wump-Muglety Wump...Glackus-Glackus!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jason Sosbe (Jsosbe) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 11:57 am:

Hi guys, wanting to put a tiller on my original... A..is it possible?..B if so how does the engagement work?... C. What model(s) of tillers are compatible? Any help would be great. Thanks guys


'62 original

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Brian Branstetter (Bbranstetter) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 10:56 am:

I already have a motor with the plate and with an oil filter kit installed and I don't have any problems with it to speak of. My question is would you think there would be any benefit from adding a heat exchanger to the engine oil circuit?

My thought was if I were to try it I would install it near the intake screen side. Its not as though the tractor works that hard but it would seem as though a little bit of oil cooling might help, not saying that I'm going to do it but was just floating the idea to see if any one else has tried it on there cub.




Finally found a red one.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy joshua donald stertz (Jstertz) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 09:42 am:

Thanks Guys for the help on the Hydraulic lift for my 100. I'm about half way through the install. I have been taking time to paint parts, replace pieces that seem suspect, etc. However, since I've never owned one of these before, I have a question. The PO made a modification to the actuator rod that connects the lift handle to the arm that is attached directly to the pump. That whole handle is really sloppy. Is that typical on a well used unit? The handle moves side to side probably three or four inches. I'd like to tighten that all up but I don't want to do something that impedes function. Have any of you fabricated that little connector rod?



Right now, I'm not as worried about originality on "The Mule" as I am about durability and functionality. Any advice would be much appreciated, as would pics where applicable...


Bit Hard by the "Cub Bug"
Josh Stertz


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 09:25 am:

NIC - Yes, I know all about JIT, I was doing JIT even before the name JIT was hung on it. I had parts at FARMALL in 1979 I was turning over 350 time a YEAR... which means I had about a half a day's supply on hand at any time on any day.

But like my Boss's always told me... "You'll never get in trouble for having a couple extra parts, but if I need one and you haven't got it.... Your azz is grass!"

Last place I worked I turned inventory around 18-19 times a year, but our quoted lead-time on new orders was 3 to 5 DAYS, plus my service parts were my production parts too. So I was having suppliers ship parts that I didn't even have customer orders for yet. At that place, all my suppliers sat on the inventory so I didn't have to. Which is typical of the automotive industry too. And there we not only got in trouble for not having enough, we got in trouble for having a few too many.

If I just spent $70,000 for a brand new truck and the shop couldn't get a part for it... they could keep my truck. And of course, I'd be driving THEIR loaner.

If you want to drive a Mini-MX Magnum to mow your lawn, here ya' go! Case/IH did make the FARMALL DX18. Should be a few of them on the used market by now. I think they were produced in 2007 only. http://tractors.wikia.com/wiki/Case_IH_DX18E_Farmall

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Nic Bextermueller (Nbextermueller) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 08:43 am:

Dennis, you should know that nearly every manufacturing company runs a "just-in-time" supply line. I cost waaaay to much to have months of parts just sitting on a shelf in some warehouse not being sold.

Secondly, the two most profitable areas on any dealership lot are the repair shop and finance office. They don't make $ selling $50,000 trucks. They make money financing that $50,000 truck. And the requiring the maintenance be done in house to honor the warranty.

Goes with anything in life. Only buy it if you have the green cash dollars to pay for it.

I would LOVE to see CC out of MTD's collection of crap. CNH would be a great home. Probably have better looking tractors too. I don't know about you, but I would drive a little mini CaseIH magnum mowing my lawn.

Let's start a Petition.org thing right now!


2014 season is coming!! Visit www.pantherpulling.com to get the 2014 rulebook and see all the event action and results. Lucas Oil is back on board for the 2014 Championship with 7X's more product to hand out! Come join us!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 07:23 am:

CHARLIE - Like Marlin says, actually, the S/G belt is one of the easier belts to replace with a non-OEM belt. Now things like the mule drive belts, tiller drive belts..... not so much.

I hope that Einstein is reminded of his brain FART every chance his bosses have. I used to take service/repair parts more seriously than production parts whether it was at FARMALL, the machine tool co, drinking fountains & water coolers... or water softeners.

The company that in my opinion needs to be kicked in their service & repair parts family jewels is FORD. 26 yrs ago my wife drove a brand new Mustang GT around with a rear window covered with visqueen for THREE MONTHS the first winter we had the car because FMC was too busy building new cars and the left rear fenders were backordered all the way to the stamping plant..... till I got involved... the fender complete with first dent was at the body shop the next day. I did let the parts manager know I would kick his Azz the next time I saw him...

Anyhow, I read about brand new $60,000-$70,000 trucks being parked for weeks at the dealers waiting for stupid little parts to get them running again. So guys making $1000/month truck payments are waiting on $50 parts. Ford should be ashamed. At IH we had a 6 month supply of parts IN THE WAREHOUSES before a new model of tractor was in production.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Marlin Homrighausen (Mhomrighausen) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 04:06 am:

I've found it a lot easier to get a better quality S/G belt from NAPA than through Cub Cadet or even CASEIH.

Back to working five days a week again so a lot of my items needed to get done are once again being put on hold.


Life is like a treasure chest. It's contents' value is only worth as much as what you're willing to put into that treasure chest. If you go around with negativity and a frown then that treasure chest will never hold much value. But, if you smile in hard times, help others when they're down, and believe that there is something beyond this simple life on earth... THEN imagine how priceless that treasure chest has become.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Peter Nurse (Pnurse) on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 12:49 am:

John C. Lazar,

That would be great if you could check the fuel cap sizes, thank you.

Peter N.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Gerry Ide (Kide) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 11:38 pm:

Charlie... if CNH can't buy Cub Cadet from MTD, maybe Macormick would.. That'd put CC back in the right family......


"An opinion should be the result of thought, not a substitute for it." - Jef_Mallett

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 09:26 pm:

That reminds me!

Some DUMBA$$ at Cub Cadet thought it would funny to make the S/G belts for our old Cub Cadets no longer available,GRRRRRRRR

And to think, they pay these morons to come to work everyday!

Good thing CNH has some intelligent people still working for them!


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 09:23 pm:

Hopefully he's not talking about the compression spring on the driveshaft. PN/732-3016

I doubt it though, cause the brake return spring is NLA and the other isn't.


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 09:20 pm:

Art,
Brake


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 09:15 pm:

Clutch return spring on a 61 Cub... What clutch return spring???


Remember that time Kraig lost.... Oh never mind... He found it!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 07:03 pm:

John B.
I have heard of guys using a spring from a 154 LoBoy.
They heated up the center and stretched it to make it the same as the Original.
Never seen the outcome, but it might be worth checking into.
CNH PN/404654R1


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy john bennett (Jbennett) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 06:49 pm:

The clutch return spring on my 61 cub broke the other day. Cub dealer says it's not available anymore. Does anyone happen to know of another spring that will work? Possibly with a part number?

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Wyatt Compton (Wcompton) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 04:37 pm:

Here's the ports you're looking for on the left, the block on the right is without.
1

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Wyatt Compton (Wcompton) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 04:29 pm:

Brian-
Not all KT's have the ability to have a cooler or filter. You'll have to look on the right front corner of the engine to see if you've got a block-off plate. I had a similar idea for my 682, but since I don't have the plate, there wasn't much need to take the idea further.

.... unless you found a Magnum 18 (M18, not a standard MV18) block and swapped all the parts over, which would me likely much more trouble than it's worth.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 02:52 pm:

BRIAN - I would think adding a filter would do more good than just an oil cooler. The oil flowing thru the filter would cool and clean the oil.

Dave Kirk posted some research he did here years ago about how hot his K301 Killer Kohler's oil got while mowing. I did a search for his post a month ago and couldn't find it. Maybe if we ask him real nice he'll post his results again.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Shultzie (Kshultz) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 12:34 pm:

Brian,
Is this to keep the engine cool?
I have a heat problem on my KT17 if I mow with it for over an hour or so. So I guess I would like to know too.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy John C. Lazar (Jclazar) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 12:25 pm:

Peter N- I have both the small and large filler neck Quiet Line fuel tanks. I believe I have that same Tec cap on my Craftsman push mower which has the Tec engine. I can check later,.....

I need to get ahold of Charlie in a week or two as I need a set of 1/4" wheel spacers for my International Harvester Cub Cadet model 72, and a large filler cap gas tank gage for my International Harvester model 1450 Cub Cadet Quiet Line garden tractor, badly!


IH Cub Cadet tractors aren't built to a price, but to a standard.....we work constantly to improve them without changing their basic proven design.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Brian Branstetter (Bbranstetter) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 12:09 pm:

Anyone every considered adding a heat exchanger to the oil circuit on a KT or Magnum powered motor? Some brands of garden tractors used these and it made me wonder if it might be of benefit. What are your thoughts on this?


Finally found a red one.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Peter Nurse (Pnurse) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 09:55 am:

An oddball question ...

Do any of you guys own an EARLY Quietline with the small filler neck and a Techumseh powered snow thrower, tiller, minibike, or other Tecumseh powered machine?

If so are the fuel filler threads the same size?
Reason being I am building a customized craftsman snow thrower with a souped up engine that will most likely drink more fuel than my grandmother drank moonshine!

Cub Cadet's 61635 fuel gauge for early Quietline tanks looks like it could be a good fit, but I'd like to confirm the thread size/pitch are OK (1-3/4" neck size same as Tecumseh's plastic fuel tanks?).

The float rail maybe a bit long which I could modify, but if anyone can check if a Tecumseh cap will fit their early Quietline with the smaller filler neck it would be a great help before I order one.

Tec vs Cadet

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 08:39 am:

I think Luther already posted that the NF lift manual was in the Manuals section.


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL) (Sblunier) on Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - 07:47 am:

Josh

There are instructions for the lift install. I can send them to you later this evening if they don't get posted here first.


"There's nothing more peaceful than plowing a field, chances are you'll do your best thinking there"


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