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  Thread Originator Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through March 10, 2018 Earl Ford (Eford)
 30   03-13-18  07:18 pm
by Ethan Kincaid (Eki
Archive through March 13, 2018 Gerry Ide (Kide)
 30   03-16-18  02:37 pm
by Dennis Frisk (Dfri
Archive through March 16, 2018 Steve Blunier "Mr. P
 30   03-19-18  07:15 am
by Mick morgan (Memor
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Use this topic for OPEN discussion about IH Garden Tractors and Equipment or what ever suits ya!
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Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Mike Frade (Mfrade) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 07:18 pm:

Michael H., we all "get it". But the fact remains that the 169 K341 is going to vibrate and using 1 for any length of time actually becomes painful. Your hands and feet go numb from the vibes.

Even Steve B. writes that he had a well experienced shop balance his and it was enough of an experience that he was also frustrated enough to send it down the road. I do thank you for the reply, this is an ongoing "project" I think. So maybe somewhere in the future I'll take it down and re-install the original wrist pin.

Tryin' to keep up with the repartee'

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jeff Belliveau (Jbelliveau) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 04:18 pm:

Marty.... yuk yuk cracking up here.
Almost lost my head back in the day installing pots in the floor of my shop, with a press, .... that let go.. not fun wondering where that bullet is going.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Marty A. Gwin (Mgwin) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 04:00 pm:


It won't hurt you if you don't have your head/face down on it when you release the vise!

"The man who moves mountains begins by carrying away small stones one at a time."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Marty A. Gwin (Mgwin) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 03:57 pm:


Why did you have to cut the roll pins?
The pin length should be real close to the diameter of the clutch piece you are installing.

Example: Notice the spirol pin in the bottom pic is almost flush with the clutch plate collar.

All you have to do is put the end of the driveshaft in the vise.
I use two small pieces of cardboard on each side to protect the shaft from scratches or gouges when driving the spring pins in and out.

Here are two pics of how to put the clutch in a vise for disassembly and assembly:
In the pics, I used blue masking tape to show where the cardboard goes.

The vise does not have to be tightened real tight, just enough to keep the shaft from slipping when putting the clutch back together.
The vise is laying on it's side to make it easier to drive the pins out.

With the shaft in the vise like this, and a block of wood under the other end, you can drive every pin in the entire shaft out.

To put the pin back in, align the hole in the collar with the hole in the shaft, and put it back in the vise like in the pic.
Then set the vise back upright and drive the shaft down with a hammer and brass punch until the holes are even with each other.

Do not hit it too hard, or you will go too far down and will have to loosen the vise and start all over again.

A closer pic:

"The man who moves mountains begins by carrying away small stones one at a time."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 03:45 pm:


I remember reading/seeing that in the manual back in the 70s complete with the brass jaws. Marty has a good idea with the cardboard for that matter. I was just making a point and speaking from a lot of experience. That's a powerful spring we're talking about and it can hurt you. Matts compressor greatly reduces the chances again, IMO.

And the "muffler support plate" is usually called a heat shield. Just another FYI.


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy David Schwandt (Dschwandt) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 03:21 pm:

K301 just about ready to reinstall in a 128 soon as the rest of the driveshaft parts show up. I still have to weld up cracks in the muffler support plate and shield but I'm out of wire at present.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jeff Belliveau (Jbelliveau) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 02:40 pm:

All this talk of presses......
I Just picked up everything I need to make a clutch press (since I will need it to reassemble the 126). $12 CDN. Thanks to Matt for the design, looks robust and safe and can be used on or off the tractor!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jonathan Danial Salatino (Jsalatino) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 01:58 pm:

Ok didn't mean to start anything yesterday , I actually do use a vise to tear them down. Really just wanted to make one for putting them back together. Since I did take some welding classes a while back and finally picked up a welder. Besides every clutch assembly I've taken apart I had to cut the roll pins off while holding in a vice.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jeff Belliveau (Jbelliveau) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 12:06 pm:

Thanks Steve, I didn't tow with truck but was trying to ensure the point got across that it was really hard to roll.

My unit does not have manual relief valves, no lever on the console and tall relief valves without depression nipple.

Possible another valve is stuck within?

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy David Schwandt (Dschwandt) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 12:01 pm:

Wayne, They show doing it in a vise in the service manual with some protective jaw inserts.

It will only bounce about a inch if you ease off the vice gently.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL) (Sblunier) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 11:29 am:

Jeff B.

Your hydro is.........100% NORMAL

They don't roll in N, UNLESS you release the check valves withthe dump lever on the center cover.

Be thankful you have such good check valves....some will roll away from you when the release after you park the tractor.

AND......DON'T TOW HYDROS WITH YOUR will score the swash plates and slipper feet and ruin the hydro......

The most peaceful thing in the world is plowing a field. Chances are youíll do your best thinking that way. And thatís why Iíve always thought and said, farmers are the smartest people in the world, they donít go for high hats and they can spot a phony a mile off. - Harry Truman

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 09:37 am:

I'm going to agree to disagree with all that's been said about Matts clutch spring tool assuming that's the one being discussed here. I made a couple (one for a friend) a few years back when I first learned of it on his website. I've since used the tool on probably two dozen clutch repairs and have found it to work perfectly. I've also used a vise (as a much younger man) and don't care to have a potential rocket right in front of me while working...especially trying to drive the roll pin out. Matts clutch spring compressor is safe as long as you have good welds, etc.

I've also seen several different designs of compressors but Matts is simple in design and easy to use IMO. And when I'm done it hangs nicely on a nail where it's easy to find next time.


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jeff Belliveau (Jbelliveau) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 09:29 am:

Well been over a week since last post but managed to split the 1650, pulled the Hydro unit off, and it looks like I will require more input from the more experienced peeps on hydro function....

RECAP; Rear end was functioning as if it was a vehicle rear end in park. Up in the air (on the bench) both axles spin super free in opposing directions, but try to spin the both in the same direction and its a no go. So felt something was holding back the reduction gear, either the brakes stuck or the input shaft. Confirmed brakes were free, left me only with the hydro unit.

Further for those who have not reviewed/seen my past posts re this issue, the relief valves are both free (one was stuck but manage to free it up) and issue is present regardless of valves being in place or removed completely from the hydro.

From there I pulled the Hydro unit and after that I was able to rotate both axles in the same direction, with considerable resistance but no more than one/I would expect given the gears. So then I tried to rotate the hydro gear and was able to do so with some effort(wrapped fist around gear teeth and cranked) It was difficult to turn but turned.

So.... How much resistance should one feel on the hydro unit (when pulled from the trani)? Should I be able to spin it using thumb/finger? or is it expected to see it stiffer than that?

I then reassembled hydro to trani and back to pretty much parked condition.

Final note, tractor drives forward and reverse no issues at all, just cant push by hand when its shut off and in what would be called a neutral state, without hooking a chain to my truck...... They do roll just needs far more power and if one wheel loses traction say over slippery concrete, that wheel would roll backwards while the other goes forward...

I think I got all the details out there now... Sorry for the long message, but if anyone has a thought/input to help it's greatly appreciated, being my first hydro to work on and all....

I'm thinking I'm afraid to hear the answer of what I expect to come.....

BUT at the same time I'm also thinking maybe dried seals in hydro pump and maybe some lucas additive might help rejuvenate.....

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Earl Ford (Eford) on Monday, March 19, 2018 - 09:01 am:

I made one, terrible and very dangerous. Should have used someone else's idea. It's now part of a sleeve hitch lift on a Case 220. Second time around, I did along David S. Method. I try and not have to change clutches by focusing on hydros now

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