Tim M: Can't say anything about that 1980-up stuff, but I've got a B&S Single Cylinder "L" Head Repair Manual, Part Number 270962-6/99 (its printed on the back cover). The 6/99 is the print date...It covers all the B&S single cylinder "L" heads including the 17000 & 19000 series vertical shaft engines found in all the IH Cadet Lawn Tractors I own...The SO76 has a 170700 & the 80 has a 190707...both covered in the manual....The carb section was especialy critical for me and has sections on the correct carbs...What else can I say...
Myron B
Question on the
B&S Single Cylinder "L" Head Repair Manual
The copies through the bookstores list this as for engines built after 1980. My equipment has engines all from the 70's, does this still apply? Or, are we talking about another manual--I have seen several similar listings in the sponsor links??????
Question on the
B&S Single Cylinder "L" Head Repair Manual:
I was getting ready to order it and noticed it is for engines built after 1980. Is it still a good manual for the 1970's engines my equipment has?
Tim, Whenever I encounter a problem with a cranks over but no start situation I first check the spark (which you have) and bypass the whole carburetor issue by using a squirt bottle with a little gas in it. I don't bother with the choke either. Leave it open. Just squirt some gas down its throat and crank it over. You can keep it running with the squirt bottle once its started by giving it a squirt when it tries to die. This at least lets you listen to the engine and know if it is mechanically sound. Most problems with these engines is either the carburetor, or ignition. There are of course more possibilities but this is where I start. P.S. Always check the oil first. Good luck, Marshall
Thanks for the info.
I'll take care of the items you suggested and get back with a report! It is those little details from your experience that I lack.....
Tim M:
1)Never ever re-use a flywheel key in those old B&S engines!! Always put in a new one!! They are critical to the timing and used ones can give you that "almost starts" syndrome...."was in good condition" Hmmm...I suggest you REPLACE it with a new one!! Then you'll know for sure that isn't the problem. Given that the cost is in the cents range....it ain't epic
2)I have several of those IH Cadet LT's and my experience is that the valve stems build up carbon and almost close, but not quite, and results in a "wants" to start syndrome, but because the valves are not completely seating, it doesn't quite get enough compresion to start...Remove the head and free up the valves till they are seating.
3)I use and recommend you put MMO in your gas (always) to ensure future lubrication of those valve stems and no more of the sticky valve problem. Note: till its mixed thoroughly, MMO will have a tendency to settle to the bottom, so just ensure you put it in the fuel container and mix it good before putting it in the gas tank. Relatively inexpensive...nothing epic here...
I don't pretend to be a B&S expert and maybe some else can help further. You really need to go to Tractor Supply, Books-a-Million, or Barnes & Noble, etc., and buy yourself a B&S Single Cylinder "L" Head Repair Manual. It helps a lot, particularly on the carb settings and adjustments .... Not costly and certainly not epic..
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
CC 80 lawn tractor, about 1978
History: bought new by my dad, always stored indoors. Ran well for many years. He had the cylinder "re-sleeved"? and carb rebuilt in the 90's. Always complained the battery died. As my parents grew older I hired a lawn service so the tractor sat idle in the garage until my parents passed away. Now it sits in my garage!
Currently: I brought it home last fall, filled the tires, replaced the battery and gas, a little bit of starting fluid and it fired up. My daughter took it for a ride and it just "died".
Work since then:
New stator to take care of the battery issue --the wire just fell out of the old one. The key in the flywheel was in good condition when it was put back in place.
Tore apart and cleaned carb. Got it to run but only in full throttle and then it ran only slowly. Noticed a leak from the bottom of the head gasket. Yup, head was lose. Removed cleaned polished and replaced gasket. Valves seemed to be working when the head was off. Lots of carbon.
Good bright spark from a new plug. But, it just cranks and cranks and never catches--sounds like it wants too, just doesn't. Friend is bringing over a compression gauge. Battery is, of course, dead so everything is done while jumped from a car battery.
Q's: I have been following this forum to walk me through most of this stuff, but what am I still missing to get this going???
What are the factory settings for the carb? What do I need to get in compression? Could it be the breather? What about the rest of the electrical system upstream from the plug? I don't want to scrap this but I don't need the expense of an epic project right now.
IH Cadet lawn tractors 
