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IH Cub Cadet Forum * CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment * Snow Plow Main Frame from Sub Frame question < Previous Next >

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tony Hoffman (Tkhoffman) on Monday, November 04, 2013 - 02:47 pm:

Good idea. Nut on the inside of te bracket. Hmm you can improve on what I did that way. Weld a Nut on both sides and then a pipe welded to the nut for the rigidity. That could work well. So you don't have to make the Bolts tight (needs to hinge) you can drill a hole in the bolt and nut for a clevis pin or something.

Wait, Take what I have and just have two shorter rods or bolts. No need to screw them in, just push them through the Brackets and pin them through the pipe. I may look at that .. replace my long Rod with two shorter ones with Heads on them and pinning holes.


I've brought many old mechanical things back from near death. This will be another good machine given new life......I hope

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Monday, November 04, 2013 - 09:14 am:

Tony

That looks good and should work out great for you.I thought of bolts with a long nut welded in the frame . The bolt would make it easy to get it apart. But your mod should work out good and strong.


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tony Hoffman (Tkhoffman) on Monday, November 04, 2013 - 08:30 am:

Pulled it apart this weekend. mad a new Pin for the one rusted one that broke free fom the Main Bracket. The one that you can lock for Dozing.
the threads on the piece I had was couse thread so I couldn't use the old fine thread Nut. Had to make a castle nut from a plain one I had.

Also ground off the welded on rod that attaches to the Sub Bracket ( under the tractor) Welded a sleeve across the main bracket for the support. Worked out as I hoped. The only disappointment is that the Front tires get in the way of sliding the new Rod through to attach. I was hoping to keep the subframe attached to the tractor then just roll up to the Main bracket/ Plow assembly and simply slide the rod through.
The welds look uglier in the picture then they are. Galvanized pipe makes for ugly.

Forward Pin

Plenty of amperage but ugly

castle nut


I've brought many old mechanical things back from near death. This will be another good machine given new life......I hope

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 08:16 am:

Tony Hoffman

The ends should be welded so a little side stress does not collapse the sub frame . I changed one over by prying the one end and then a bfg to get it back together .


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tony Hoffman (Tkhoffman) on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 07:51 am:

Got it apart the other week after I asked.. I bet getting it back on will be a real thrill. I'm thinking of grinding the 3/4" shaft off and putting in a replacement rod that just gets washers and cotter pins on the ends for easy removal. This way it's easier to disassemble and grease that pivot point. Maybe put a sleeve in between the space on the Pivot Bracket to maintain strength across it.
Anyone see the harm in doing that?


I've brought many old mechanical things back from near death. This will be another good machine given new life......I hope

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Tuesday, October 08, 2013 - 08:55 am:

Tony, to separate the two you have to pry the sub-frame apart enough to get one end of the rod out of the hole in the sub-frame. This question and most regarding your 782 should be in the main forum area.


Charlie says I'm an INSTIGATOR.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tony Hoffman (Tkhoffman) on Tuesday, October 08, 2013 - 08:37 am:

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Front%2042%20Blade%20WF%20Install%20Manual.pdf

Looking here, should the Main Frame on Page 2 be able to separate from the Subframe on page 3 buy pulling the cotter pin and sliding out that 5/8" rod? That rod is welded onto my Main Frame so whether I pull the cotter pins or not, that Rod is not moving. Just want to know what's correct before I start 'recreating the wheel'. Need to disassemble to straighten teh Subframe and clean Grease and paint teh whole schmere


I've brought many old mechanical things back from near death. This will be another good machine given new life......I hope

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