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IH Cub Cadet Forum * CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment * 1512 main oil seal < Previous Next >

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Thursday, July 05, 2012 - 07:25 pm:

Sorry but I was actually talking about the metal bracket that holds the clutch from spinning. I have attached a better picture. The metal plate has a V shape notch out of it and you can slide it closer to farther away from the clutch. I labeled the bracket on this picture. Currently I have maybe a 1/16 of an inch between the bracket and clutch. I am just unsure how close it should be.


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Thursday, July 05, 2012 - 06:51 pm:

Bernie Pientka

There are three points where a feeler gauge is used to set the clutch on your PTO.where your arrow points is where the spring sets the tension or clearance for the PTO.use a gauge and don`t fret about it. the PTO will work great if the magnet for the clutch is set to spec.look at the arrow and you will see where to slide your gauge . I think 10 th will work ok, I could be wrong it is years since I set mine


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Thursday, July 05, 2012 - 06:23 pm:

While putting the sheet metal back on I notices some space between the pto clutch and the metal bracket that holds the clutch in place (right of yellow arrow). The metal bracket has mounting holes that allow some adjustment. My question is how much space should be between the clutch and the metal bracket?

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Thursday, July 05, 2012 - 06:19 pm:

After the install I made sure to fill the coolant and check the oil. After a few minutes test run (no leaks!!!) I shut the engine off and did a oil and filter change. Let the engine cool and topped off the coolant. Put the sheet metal back on and hauled some fire wood. After 1/2 hour of use (up and down slopes) I checked again and no leaks.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Thursday, July 05, 2012 - 06:14 pm:

Flywheel back on. After cleaning you can actually see that back plate is blue. Before putting the back plate completely on (no bolts on it) I installed the starter and its lower mounting bolt. I installed the flywheel back on. The hole pattern only allows the flywheel to go on one way. I torqued the flywheel bolts to spec (39.8-43.4 ft-lbs) I had to lock the flywheel in place with a pry bar to keep the engine from turning.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Thursday, July 05, 2012 - 06:07 pm:

The seals have been replaced. I torqued the 16 bolts to the proper specs in the service manual (7.23-8.32 ft-lbs). You will also notice the engine mounting bolts are removed. I had to lift the engine slightly to get the PTO clutch completely off the shaft.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Thursday, July 05, 2012 - 06:02 pm:

As I mentioned here are a few additional photos. After spending sometime cleaning the old gaskets off here is what everything looked like.

The alum plate that hold the shaft seal mounts to both the block and the bearing on the shaft. Cleaning of the block was pretty easy but that bearing was a pain. I had to put one of the bolts I removed back into the bearing so I could hold the bearing in place while trying to remove the gasket.

Due to the hole pattern the gaskets can only go on one way.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Monday, July 02, 2012 - 08:12 pm:

After 3 hrs of work the tractor started right up. Most of this time was spent cleaning and prep for the seals. The main oil seal was a little tight getting it into the alum plate but I just took my time with a dead blow hammer and a metal plate to ease it into place. It is interesting that the new inner seal (between alum plate and engine block) appeared to be metal with a light coating on each side. Where the original on was regular gasket material. After a minute or so of running there appeared to be no oil leaks. Will change the oil before running again and top off the coolant. Still have to put the sheet metal back on but will wait until I can run it some more.

Have a few more pictures which I will post soon.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Thursday, June 28, 2012 - 09:06 am:

Just checked and seal shipped. Scheduled for delivery today. Should get tractor back together over weekend!!!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 09:05 pm:

All right another 30 minutes into it and the blue plate is removed.



With the plate removed I now can get in to clean the old seal off and prep the area for the new seal. Looks like I have some more cleaning to do and maybe a little Kubota blue paint.



Lastly a little gentle tapping with a hammer and a small strip of wood and the old seal is out.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 09:04 pm:

Bernie Pientka


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 06:53 pm:

Here is a better photo of the inner seals. After this photo was taken I started to remove these seals but the outer one is being tough. The blue metal plate still on the motor makes it difficult to get to the seal out. Looked over things I think best solution is just to removed the blue metal plate. This will allow the best access to remove the old seal. Once the kids go to bed will start removal of the metal plate. More pictures to follow.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 06:48 pm:

The alum plate containes the main seal (one I am waiting for) and there are two additional seals on the engine.



Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 06:45 pm:

No seal yet but kept going on the removal. Following the service manual after removing the 16 small bolts (shorter bolt go into inside holes) I place two of them in the threaded holes of the alum plate (Marked with yellow arrows). With very little turning force this popped the alum plate right off.


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 - 05:25 am:

I called four local Kubota dealers and none had it in stock. All could get it (3-4 days) but I had to order some other cub cadet parts so I just went that route to save shipping. The two other Kubota seals came in the order.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Monday, June 25, 2012 - 08:16 pm:

Bernie Pientka

Did you get your seals from a local kubota dealer?
I bet they would have them in stock. CCC would have to get them from another source I bet.Keep me posted because I might have to do this someday. later Don T


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Monday, June 25, 2012 - 06:20 pm:

Waiting on one seal. All but the main one arrived in my order. Hope to get it this week.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 06:34 am:

No problem Don. It was my plan to document everything and post them.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 06:21 am:

Bernie Pientka

Post more pictures of when you get to the front seal please. Someday I might have to do that to my 1512 and it would be great to have your pictures to work from .Thanks Don T


1 step forward 2 steps back always ! Later Don T

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 09:25 pm:

Are they truly spinning backwards? On the gas engines cubs cadets are not connect to the drive shaft but the flywheel. So in some sense they are also mounted backwards. I guess it just depends on where the flywheel is located. Ok maybe I am overthinking things.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Nic Bextermueller (Nbextermueller) on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 09:01 pm:

Jeremiah,

These diesels turn the opposite direction of our traditional gas engines. So they are mount "backwards" from conventional wisdom. Always funny to see them though. Like blown drag boat motors with the blower hat turned backwards, although its facing the front on the boat...


The 2012 pulling season has started! Visit www.pantherpulling.com to see all the event action and the schedule. See you there!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 08:23 pm:

The picture where I say clutch and clutch shaft remove has the flywheel (see the teeth). The last picture is of the main bearing carrier (with lots of small bolts).

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jeremiah Chamberlin (Jchamberlin) on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 08:13 pm:

Bernie: Pretty cool. Is that the flywheel I see at the "front" of the engine?


My 782 is very nearly unconfuguliated

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 08:12 pm:

Flywheel removed. Anyone see where the leak is?
Look at the clean area in the middle. I have ordered the three seals needed to repair this. Will take more photos with the main bearing case cover off.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 08:09 pm:

PTO Clutch and clutch shaft removed. I did have to unbolt the engine to get the clutch off the shaft. Again see dirt and oil on front axle.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 08:08 pm:

Radiator removed. See oil/dirt on front axle.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Bernie Pientka (Bpientka) on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 08:06 pm:

1512 has been leaking oil onto the front axle for close to a year now. Last night jumped into the repairs. Main seal is leaking and I have a new one on order so it will be a few days before reassembly can occur. I thought people might be interested in some photos.

Sheet metal removed

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