The Original forum for International Harvester Cub Cadet owners





Please check the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) before posting your question -
perhaps it has already been answered there.

While you're at it, please also read through the IH Cub Cadet Forum Rules before posting.
Thanks!!


Got a suggestion for, question about or problem with the site? E-mail us at info@ihcubcadet.com

Topics Topics Help/Instructions Help Edit Profile Profile Member List Register  
Search Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  
IH Cub Cadet Forum * IH Cub Cadet's larger relatives. * Cub Loboy 154 < Previous Next >

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy William wells (Wwells) on Saturday, July 06, 2013 - 06:15 pm:

Found the problem,loose wire.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy William wells (Wwells) on Friday, July 05, 2013 - 09:02 pm:

Tom,I checked it and its tight.i might try cleaning the connection .it might have gotten wet.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tom Hoffman (Thoffman) on Friday, July 05, 2013 - 08:41 pm:

Check your ground wire.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy William wells (Wwells) on Friday, July 05, 2013 - 06:24 pm:

Need help.i parked my 154 3 days ago and today when I tryed to start it.It wouldn't even turn over.i thought maybe the battery so I bought a new one and still won't even turn.up to 3 days ago would start every time.i did put a new belt on it today'
.it was out of the barn so did get wet.would that have anything to do with the problem.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 09:54 pm:

Thomas B.
So you place a Want Ad here just to see if I would see it??????
And yes I edited your post.


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Thomas C. Bradshaw (Tbradshaw) on Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 09:28 pm:

I need some help. I have a 154 Cub Lo Boy that I have sort of inherited. Long story on the circumstances anyway I will come right to the point. This Lo Boy had a Zenith Carburetor instead of the IH Carb. It was in pretty rough shape so I found another one on the internet. I got it shipped and to my surprise choke shaft is broken off on the side where the arm that the choke cable hooks into. It is supposed to be threaded on the end and the arm slips over the shaft and is held on by whatever means and a nut and washer go over the arm on the end of the shaft. The number on the carb is 13734 and the IH number is 71523C-92. The carburetor as a whole is in good shape with new gaskets it just has this one problem and I would really love to get this tractor going to mow my lawn.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy William wells (Wwells) on Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 04:06 pm:

Thanks Allen,ill give it a try.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Allen Schumacher (Aschumacher) on Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 10:23 am:

Wm, take a look here, not sure what he has for larger tractors. If you e-mail him I'm sure he will give you some help.
http://www.ccspecialties.org/

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy William wells (Wwells) on Saturday, June 29, 2013 - 08:24 pm:

I just bought my first cub loboy and wanted to see where I can get a belt that goes on back of pulley on the back of cub and down to deck.its a long belt.tryed tractor supply and they didn't have one.thanks for any help.btw new here and wanted to say hi.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Sandra Hunt (Sshunt) on Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 10:45 pm:

Thanks! This should be a great help!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 10:25 pm:

Also,
Go to the manuals section under Topics and download the Service manual for it.
http://www.ccmanuals.info/service.html

If you want hard copies, click the Binder Books button at he top of the page.


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 10:24 pm:

Sandra H.
dash


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Sandra Hunt (Sshunt) on Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 09:25 pm:

Just obligated myself to removing a Model 154 Lo-boy from a friend's property. Serial number designates it as built in 1974. It has a front end loader, 3-pt hitch and PTO. Has been sitting out in the weather for many years, LOTS of rust. Tried to start it today by hooking up the battery leads to jumpers to my car, a red light on its 'dash' flashes but it doesn't turn over (surprise, surprise) with the screwdriver provided as a key. Problem: I am totally unfamiliar with this tractor, there are no manuals, and the labels for everything on the dash is worn off or painted over. Has anyone posted a photo on this forum that would identify the controls for me? Tricks for starting, troubleshooting the starting of this? Which particular operating/service/owners manuals would be needed for this model/year?

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jeremiah Chamberlin (Jchamberlin) on Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 10:03 pm:

Thanks, Guys. That's just the kind of feed-back I was looking for. I remember reading about that clutch now that you mention it, Charlie.


My 782 is very nearly unconfuguliated

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 09:56 pm:

Jeremiah C.
IF the clutch has been replaced in the last 10 years, Jump on it. If not, tell them it's gonna take 800+ to fix and you'll give him 2K.

BELIEVE ME!
That's not a job you want to tackle!
I'd rather split my 1066 twice, than do a 154!


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Tom Hoffman (Thoffman) on Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 09:02 pm:

Jeremiah,
I kinda' think the price is one the high side. The Cub's and 154 are kinda' gutless. You might have more caicity with the larger machine but don't expect much on the PTO hp.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy jeff l baker (Jbaker) on Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 07:33 pm:

Jeremiah, two similer 154's are for sale in my area for $1500 with mowing deck and $2400 with mowing deck,front push blade,and rear 3 point.

Just a reference point


IH wide frame hydros are the cats meow

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Mike Frade (Mfrade) on Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 06:50 pm:

Jeremiah, I'd go after it for that price. I would probably try and get it for 24, 25....

Obviously, after hearing it run and drive, hydraulics work etc. Small tractor with a loader has got to be worth that..


If it turns money into noise and horsepower, I love it!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jeremiah Chamberlin (Jchamberlin) on Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 05:49 pm:

The Lo-Boy 154 I'm looking is priced for much more than Gary Smyth's in 2010, but I'm still curious. If I understand the rules correctly From Forum Rules, ("This is not an appraisal site!
Questions regarding the specific value of any particular unit, implement or whatever are not allowed. Any posts containing such queries will be removed. Asking if a certain amount for a tractor is worth buying it for is fine.")
,
I can ask if the tractor in the pictures is worth the asking price of $2,750.00 USD.

LoBoy154-01

LoBoy154-02

LoBoy154-03

LoBoy154-04

The reason I ask is because it is really in pretty rough shape. It looks like it has been sitting in the weather for many years, but someone got it started (sign says "Runs Good") and threw some paint on it. Personally, I don't feel that $2,750 is too bad if the loader and hitch are working; but they don't look "factory" to me. If only the tractor is considered, then the price seems kind of high --I've seen beautifully restored 154's advertised locally for $4,000.00.

Just curious what others think.

Note: I know that "It's worth what I'm willing to pay" or "What he'll take for it;" but I'm curious about what YOU (the reader) would be willing to pay for it.

I'm also interested in any comments about what is original and what has be "confuguliated" by the previous owner and seller. (This tractor is one of many that seems to be a product of a fellow in the neighborhood who likes to fix up smaller, Farmall-size tractors and re-sell them, he has several corners in this part of town where tractors of all brands keep appearing on a regular basis.)

Finally (to the moderators), I "employed" this thread, since it seemed to be on the same topic, rather than start a new one.


My 782 is very nearly unconfuguliated

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jerry Muncie (Jmuncie) on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 06:18 am:

I'll disagree with Myron and Charlie on this one. It's probably worth well more than $500 in parts. If it happens to have a 3-point hitch it's definitely worth the price in parts. As a project tractor I'd pass. Prices for Farmall Cubs and the 154 Lo Boys seem to have dropped precipitously over the past year. The 154s can still bring $2000+ around here in nice condition, but I've also been seeing several of them in good running condition for $1000 to $1200 that take a long time to sell. I'm in Indiana where these tractors are pretty common so your local market may be different. If you really want one of these tractors, take your time and find a decent one. IMHO, it's worth driving a bit for the right deal. If you don't know what you're getting into, I wouldn't get in.

Jerry

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Myron Bounds (Mbounds) on Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 06:14 pm:

Gary S: I'm with Charlie... to each his own, but passing on a running Lowboy 154 for $500.00 doesn't pass my smarts test...

Myron B


Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 03:42 pm:

Gary S.
If I were, I'd snatch that thing up and bring it home!


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Gary Smyth (Gsmyth) on Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 02:18 pm:

I expect that I'll pass on the 154. I'd love to work on this but I believe to much will have to be put into it. I have not the space, and cold is two days away. The clutch is free moving as it sits now. Too bad. I kinda had my hopes up as I had not seen one of these before and it is the perfect size. By the way, was $500 asking anywhere near the value or would I have started badly. Thanks for the comment.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine) (Fcurrier) on Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 12:17 pm:

They can do tricks like this under the proper (flood) conditions:
Flooded Cubs


Cubbers Without Borders
Never lose altitude, air speed and ideas at the same time. :-)
I ain't done, yet!


Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Myron Bounds (Mbounds) on Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 12:03 pm:

Gary S: Here is where you should have asked about that 154. I own a LowBoy 154. Like the Cub Cadets, they are well built and relatively simple to maintain IF you get the Operators Manual AND Service Manual AND the Parts Manual. They are available from Forum Sponsor Binder Books (click on the icon at the top of the page). Parts, in general, are readily available from multiple sources a well as Case/IH.

Ask the Owner about that mechanical dry-plate PTO clutch..does it work correctly?? They are pricey to rebuild. Otherwise, with use of those absolutely necessary manuals, a mechanically capable person can easily maintain it.

If you get it, post here and there will myself and others to help you with answers to questions and tips.

Myron B
WWW.CCSupplyRoom.com


Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 01:16 pm:

KRAIG - Yep, today's technology would have saved IH Millions of Dollars decades ago. New bar code designs allow more information in the area the size of a finger nail than that whole punch card contained.

No such thing as PC's when I was at FARMALL. Every two people shared a terminal, and you needed a terminal for about everything, "INQUIRY ONLY". Any maintenance had a "Special Form" we had to send over to "Key Punch" every night then check the next morning to confirm it was done correctly. They printed up about half a PALLET of 11 x 17 green bar tractor feed paper EVERY night.

Ahhhhh, The GOOD old days.

Interesting IH trivia; On IH's corp. mainframe computer system, each plant had a number code. Farmall was #1 (of course!), E. Moline was #3. Not sure who #2 was, and I never dealt that much with LVL and can't remember their number, but they had three I think, one for castings, another for forgings, and another for machined parts. Three distinct management groups.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 08:58 am:

This discussion makes me think of this:

1

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 08:48 am:

MYRON - ALL iron castings from IH foundries were "sealed", you've seen the nice brownish-red paint inside CC rearends on non-machined surfaces. It's not actually red-oxide primer but similar. Think we've discussed it hear before.

When I was dealing with IH foundries expediting castings for FARMALL I'd actually call the sub-contract sealing companies to get daily shipments every day. Most cases the parts shipped to the outside painter were shipped the next day and were put into production, machined as soon as they were received in Rock Island. I'd talk to the production control people at the foundries so I'd know when the castings were poured.

From the time cores & molds were made & assembled, (they're Perishable, they tend to accumulate Water or condensation, and molten 2100 degree iron and water DO NOT MIX!) the castings were poured same day or early next day, then cooled. Most LVL castings were small so cooling time was hours, not DAYS like some castings I've been around, then castings were "Cleaned", risers & gates broken off, maybe a little grinding of parting lines, Wheel-a-Brate to remove burned-on sand. Then sent to the painter for sealing, normally a dipping process, parts were still wet when they were put into wire baskets and loaded on the truck for the 500 mile trip to FARMALL.

Truck gets to FARMALL the next morning, company trucks normally got preferential treatment getting unloaded. Hot parts that production was waiting for went to the first machining department, other castings went to storage out on the "river bank".

Depending on the type and how elaborate the machining was greatly effected the in-process time. Some work centers were terribly over-loaded, other parts got ran just to keep people busy. I was a Production Scheduler for nine-ten months @ FARMALL in 1977, handled secondary gear machining operations and some hobbing & shaving in a 4-machine work cell run by two people on each shift, 1st & 2nd shifts only.

There were times when parts needed to be reworked, which in some cases went to outside machine shops with special types & styles of machines, also when machines would go down, those operations were farmed out to outside shops as well. ALL this added time to the machining process.

There are ways to relieve the inherent stresses in gray iron castings without just letting them sit. There's "Thermal stress relieving", think heat-treating, heating to a relatively low temp then cooling in a slow controlled manner; Also vibratory stress-relieving, not very effective on pump machine bases I've been involved with.

I agree, IF you have time with cast iron, waiting some time to let the casting age is better than machining castings that a day or two ago was scrap iron. But that increases inventory, which costs money, takes up valuable storage room, decreases manufacturing flexibility, and will ultimately cause interuptions in shipping finished product to customers.

I would agree that there probably are some castings on every IH product that were produced weeks, even months prior to the actual build date of the finished product but I can not agree that it was because of trying to age castings to relieve inherent stress. There were ALWAYS HOT parts that were always hand-to-mouth from production. And other parts never seemed to be a problem, except for too MUCH inventory. Some jobs just plain run easier, better, faster than others. During most of 1979, '80, & '81 IHC LVL had to pay for at least ONE air shipment a DAY for the transfer cases used in 2+2 tractors to keep FARMALL running. You can bet THOSE castings never sat around.

In my years working at IH plants I actually found them to be DECADES ahead of most manufacturing companies with their adoption of leading, or BLEEDING edge concepts. They had process control, LEAN or Just-in-time inventory down to a science back in the mid-1970's. They were ISO-compliant 20 years before most companies knew what it was. They had their own satellite for over-seas phone calls, I got my own personal work FAX machine compliments of BF Goodrich in 1979, otherwise most communication was via phone or TELEX. IH's computer system for inventory/production control back in the mid-1970's was "State-of-the-art" for small company systems popular and used today!

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Myron Bounds (Mbounds) on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 07:16 am:

Dennis..You may be correct. I am not a machinist nor have I ever worked around machining operations. However, all the information I have gathered over the last 20 years or so has indicated that there was a "curing" time procedure at the Louisville plant and that only the oldest castings, in turn, went to the machining process.

This resulted in some delay between casting and assembly of a tractor. This delay may have included reasons other that "curing", but the huge amount of cast parts shipped to Brownsville at the time of the sale is indicative that there is some "fire in all this smoke".... There, in fact, was a delay between casting and production for whatever reason and I am convinced that "curing" played a role in that.

My point to Ray was that the Casting Number would get him close to the date his Lowboy 154 came off the assembly line. That was and is still true regardless of the amount of any "curing" delay.

Myron B


Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Friday, October 15, 2010 - 05:24 pm:

MYRON - Not sure how things were back in the 1940's, '50's, '60's and early 1970's, but by the late 1970's, as long as the casting was cool the chips were flying!

From casting date codes on the M & Super H there were a couple parts that must have gotten "LOST" for a while, and others that were still warm when they were clamped in the machine tool for the first operation. Except for one or two exceptions on each tractor most date codes are within a month of assembly.

Biggest problem with machining castings that soon after they're poured is they tend to relieve stress and move around a bit. Typically the fussy stuff would be roughed, then finish machined to size after most of the movement was done.

Some of the alloy steel castings made at the foundry in Bettendorf down along the river I used to work for a division of, They would actually age harden. Castings that were more than a year old would have to be machined with lower spindle RPM, feeds & speeds than normal. Some of my machine shops would actually ask if I was supplying a "New" or "Old" casting.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Myron Bounds (Mbounds) on Thursday, October 14, 2010 - 06:46 am:

HI Ray..

Locate a casting date and you can get close. Obviously, the casting was likely at least six months before manufacture...Castings have to cure before being machined.

Casting dates will have a *, 1 or 2 digits, a *, 1 or 2 digits, a *, a letter, and a *. They are also likely upside down...

NOTE: a Casting Date does not have an R-1 at the end..that's a part number...

Post it and I or others will "decode" it for you. (the letter is a year code)

Myron B


Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Ray Van Mersbergen (Rvanmersbergen) on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 08:32 pm:

Hi Guys,
Just bought a Cub Lowboy 154. It is missing the serial number plate on the frame. Any thoughts on determining the year?
Thanks Ray

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jared Bridenstine (Jbridenstine) on Saturday, August 21, 2010 - 01:59 pm:

Thanks for the manual and the information.
I will start with the grease and work my way back from there.
I am sure you will hear a lot of questions from me tomorrow night.
I have to work tonight so I will get started on it tomorrow. Also, I forgot to mention one thing.
When I got the tractor home it would start up and idle just fine. After about 15minutes of driving it around it started to shoot little smoking particles out of the exhaust pipe. The tractor never showed any lack of power or changes in performance so I am assuming that was just carbon built up. I was driving it around with the throttle opened up. The smoke coming off of the little pieces was yellowish in color and when youpicked up the particles they would just crumble and fall apart like ashes. Thanks for all of your help.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jared Bridenstine (Jbridenstine) on Saturday, August 21, 2010 - 01:56 pm:

Thanks for the manual and the information.
I will start with the grease and work my way back from there.
I am sure you will hear a lot of questions from me tomorrow night.
I have to work tonight so I will get started on it tomorrow. Also, I forgot to mention one thing.
When I got the tractor home it would start up and idle just fine. After about 15minutes of driving it around it started to shoot little smoking particles out of the exhaust pipe. The tractor never showed any lack of power or changes in performance so I am assuming that was just carbon built up. I was driving it around with the throttle opened up. The smoke coming off of the little pieces was yellowish in color and when youpicked up the particles they would just crumble and fall apart like ashes. Thanks for all of your help.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Myron Bounds (Mbounds) on Saturday, August 21, 2010 - 06:33 am:

Jared B: I own a 154. You have a long neglected tractor. You need the Parts Manual and the Service Manual and begin going through the tractor. From your description, it is in bad need of a tune up, carburetor adjustment/rebuild and to have the governor worked on.. A bit of smoke out of the dipstick tube tells you that there is some blow-by but that little ole IH C-60 engine can probably still "pull stumps"

Tip #1: (It's in the manual) there is a small plug between the governor housing and the distributor. Take it out and put in a grease Zerk so you can lube that sucker..just a bit, not too much. I give mine one shot about twice a year.

Tip #2) On the output shaft of the PTO, inside the pulley, you will find a grease Zerk which no one ever puts grease in (this,too, is in the manual). This grease zerk lubes the needle bearings which support and connects the mainshaft to the outputshaft. Put some in till you get a bit of resistance..Careful!!.. too much and it will cause grease to ooze out and then be slung into the dry clutch plates of the PTO. Those dry plates do not like grease!! I also grease this one about twice a year with 2-3 shots...

There is a set of detent balls that lock the PTO into place and a spring which causes the handle to stay up... You are gonna have to figure this one out (or find yourself a good mechanic...(not a shade tree parts changer!!). But, it is all in the Service Manual with the parts illustrated in the Parts Manual.

Hmmmm.. How many times have I now said Parts Manual and Service Manual?? Didja get the hint yet?? Ya gotta have'em!!

Printed manuals are available from Forum Sponsor Binder Books at www.binderbooks.com. I got mine from Case/IH (now CNH).

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom


Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with.

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 11:03 pm:

Jared B.
Download the manual and see if it helps ya any.
CLICK HERE


"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Jared Bridenstine (Jbridenstine) on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 08:57 pm:

Hi Guys,
I need some help.
I recently picked up a 154 loboy and am having a few problem.
I figure this would be the place to come. First off. I would like to say, I love this tractor... Now for the problems. It has smoke coming out of the dip stick tube running to the oil pan. Not sure what that is all about but it is probably not good. Next, It seems to be grosely underpowered just cutting grass that is 4~5 inches high?? I have been on one before that ran great so I am sure this probably relates back to the smoke from the dip stick somehow?? Lastly, the rear pto for the deck will not stay engaged. The guy that I purcahsed it from was using a pair of vice grips to hold it in place and said that every now and again while you are mowing you will need to lift up on the handle and set it back down to keep it going. This cub is in great shape. It was a one owner machine for the last 38 years and I have all the owners manuals and service records for everything.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)View Post/Check IPDelete PostEdit PostBy Gary Smyth (Gsmyth) on Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 10:36 am:

Today I was "offered" a IH Low Boy in line 4 cylinder tractor (cannot find serial # or any other identifying info) for $500 which includes a (rusted) snow plow and a new clutch (in box). It's been outside, not run, exposed to PA winters for three full years. Motor runs, transmission (I'm told) OK, tires are down but appear servicable, has PTO, metal work is below average and lights etc. will need replaced as the mounts are severely rusted. If bought today it will have to be transported. It comes with a 60" deck with heavy rust. I haven't been able to look underneath. I have nothing to compare this with and with your collective experience I need an opinion if this might be something to play with. The $500 is of little concern but the repair/parts and another winter outside costs are. My repair area consists of a 10' x 12' pad uncovered. I have no clue as to what I might be in to if purchased. Should I walk towards or run away? Anything I ought to ask the owner?

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration

7909 registered users
Discus 4.10.1 released 03/14/2007

All core web site images and graphics are the property of the IH Cub Cadet forum. Any unauthorized use, reproduction, duplication is prohibited.

DISCLAIMER:This website contains no material provided by MTD Products Inc, is not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc website and MTD Products Inc is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: www.mtdproducts.com The information and opinions expressed on this website, including the bulletin boards and/or chat rooms hosted on this site are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or visitors, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc.