By George Klapp (Gklapp) on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 01:50 pm:

Michael, nothing specific on your dyno but might be some useful info here on a dyno tech forum;
http://www.land-and-sea.com/dyno-tech-talk/dyno-tech-talk.htm

By Bruce Palsgrove (Bpalsgrove) on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 08:28 am:

Do you have any additional info or pictures on your dyno?

By Michael Lies (Mlies) on Monday, February 16, 2009 - 09:43 pm:

Maybe someone here can give me a direction to find some answers about an engine dynamometer. I have recently took in a megatech electric small engine DG-3 dyno. Looking for info how to run it and where to get parts. I emailed megatech no reply. I called them and am still waiting. Have the need to see it work I have a 10hp kohler that Im rebuilding and want to use it to set up the carb etc. Any help would be great thanks in advance. Mike

By Dustin Sacksteder (Dsacksteder) on Monday, February 16, 2009 - 07:39 am:

thanks george

By Ben P. Corn (Bcorn) on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 09:30 am:

Thank you George! That was exxactly what I was looking for. Now I know what I am doing this weekend!!!!

Ben eveybody calls me Pops

By George Klapp (Gklapp) on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 09:19 pm:

Ben, here's an article with photos about welding your spiders;
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/131_0901_welding_spider_gears_locking_differential_4wd/photo_03.html

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/131_0901_welding_spider_gears_locking_differential_4wd/index.html

By George Klapp (Gklapp) on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 09:10 pm:

Dustin, here's a couple clubs, I'm sure there are others.

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/SITPI/

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/igtpa/

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/ecigtp/

By Dustin Sacksteder (Dsacksteder) on Wednesday, February 11, 2009 - 08:50 am:

Can anyone tell me what clubs or associations pull in the the SE Indiana area. I am looking to build a stock class puller and was wondering where to find a rule book. Thanks,Dustin

By James Meacham (Jmeacham) on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 07:53 am:

Is anyone using Real aluminum wheels instead of Douglas? The reason I ask is because of the lug hole size. The Real has 7/16" and the Douglas has 1/2". Also if the Real will work with disc brakes.

By Kyle Redlinger (Kredlinger) on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 11:58 am:

Hi Ben. I don't have any pics of a welded rear carrier but the way I've done it before was to weld in between the teeth on the axle gears & the spider gears on each side, then build upto the spot where the gears mesh together on each side. 4 spots where I'd weld. Can't get em too hot each time, they become brittle so little bit at a time.
I'm positive somebody has a pic of their welded rear gears.

By Ben P. Corn (Bcorn) on Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 08:00 am:

Can any of you guys explain to me or show me a picture of a welded rearend. I have a 106 named Bare Bones and he is being built strictly for dead weight pulling.

Local guys and I have invested in a new sled and 6,000 lbs. of weight looking to have a great summer at all of our little towns and festivals. Also a few running pulls so I can keep my 1000 going in the 10 hp stock class.

Any help on the above question (rearend) is greatly appreciated. You can also e-mail me at popcorn3023@yahoo.com with any comments.

Thank you

Ben-- everybody calls me Pops

By jess wipp (Jwipp) on Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 10:49 pm:

How wide is the steering rod on a cub cadet 108. The part that the stering wheel goes on and where the bolt threads on.

By Mike Logan (Mlogan) on Monday, January 19, 2009 - 06:14 am:

thank you. I'm new at cadet pulling. have a bigger traqctor I built for pulling but now there are fewer pulls and more for the garden variety

By Greg Edwards (Gfedwards) on Sunday, January 18, 2009 - 10:41 pm:

Mike Logan--try using a Magnum 16 single cylinder crankshaft. They are nodular iron instead of cast iron like the K-341 crankshaft. The crankpin is drilled instead of the hole being cast into it. You can still buy these new or you can look for a used one. These are better cranks than the K-341 or K-361. I know guys running them in Stock Altered pulling tractors. You can't do that with the old cast cranks. I hope this helps

By Kyle Redlinger (Kredlinger) on Sunday, January 18, 2009 - 10:15 pm:

Mike, there isn't any difference, they are weighted for the same size piston. Same stroke.

By Mike Logan (Mlogan) on Sunday, January 18, 2009 - 09:18 pm:

is there an advantage or disadvantage to using a k361 crank in a k341?

By Marlin Homrighausen (Mhomrighausen) on Friday, January 16, 2009 - 05:00 pm:

Okay... so you can't put this in a Cub. however if someone made a 1/16th scale Cubbie... Moyermade Chevy V8

By Brian Sturgill (Bsturgill) on Friday, January 16, 2009 - 04:32 pm:

Bill Cook, If you want some tips on working over the KT-17 give me a call one night 937-638-2003, Add an additional coil,use the old K coils, one coil for one cylinder, you can run them off the same set of points. You can radius the bottom of the intake and exhaust valves, a 3 angle job would be best and changing the angle from 45% to 30 degree-all depends how much you want to tear the motor down to do the valve work, SHAVE THE HEAD almost flat, just leave a thumb nail of ridge on the gasket surface. There is some other tricks I have heard of, got a number of a guy in Penn that told me abunch of tricks I want to try myself

By Wyatt Compton (Wcompton) on Tuesday, January 13, 2009 - 08:47 pm:

Quick secret on 1/2" bolts in cub axles- if you happen to be using a fine spline carrier, the axles that would have come with it, IF they had press-in studs - you'll find the diameter of the holes are just about right for threading 1/2" holes.

For that "factory" look - you can then go to your local agricultiral salvage yard and find "IH" stamped fine thread 1/2" wheel bolts. Seems like the ones I found were for rear wheels on combines, but I can't remember for certain. I know I took a Saturday morning one time and sorted through three 5-gallon buckets of bolts and came up with a couple sets for my own personal stash.

By Kyle Redlinger (Kredlinger) on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 09:50 pm:

I don't drill out my axle hubs, just use the fine thread bolts with permanant lock-tite & thread through the back side making a wheel stud.

By James Meacham (Jmeacham) on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 07:41 pm:

Question for you guys using Douglas Aluminum wheels. Do you drill the axles out for 1/2" lugs? I have one tractor I did drill out but it wasn't easy and if I don't have to I wont. Thanks

By Wayne Bush (Wbush) on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 03:34 pm:

Oh wow..I heard they were thinking of cancelling because of weather. Hate I missed it. I always enjoy it. Where can I get a clutch hanger for a 82 series. They come in the 582.

By Evan Wank (Ewank) on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 12:47 pm:

Columbus was entertaining. Too bad the pan on the one sled wore a hole in it and took awhile to fix it. Don't know what time it ended Saturday as we left about 6:30 after our last class and they had a ways to go yet. I heard they had a record number of tractors.

Took awhile to get home because of ice then snow up north.

By Kyle Redlinger (Kredlinger) on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 11:06 am:

Got that one Jason, thanks. So far, I've not had alot of luck but did find a few others out there that have the same liquid cooled engine in their collection.

By Wayne Bush (Wbush) on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 10:16 am:

Does anyone know how columbus went?

By jason davis (Jsdavis) on Sunday, January 11, 2009 - 12:18 am:

Kyle
Someone posted some info on a liquid cooled 7 horse in the off topic wanted section!!Just thought Id let you know!!Your 8 horse Looks like a great project!!
On topic a bit!!!.....You gentelmens creativeness and craftmanship amazes me great job.

By steve mitchell (Smitchell) on Friday, January 09, 2009 - 07:01 am:

theirs a guy not that far from me that dynos i'm in northeast pa its been so long since i had mine done i dont know what it cost

By Brennan Hoyt (Bhoyt) on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 10:22 pm:

I hear lot about Dynoing engines here and was wondering where you guys are getting this done. Or is there some simple device that I could buy to do this? I have dynoed a Slant6 for my muscle car and as much as I hear about it on here it can't be the same thing. The car engine was time consuming and expensive.

By steve mitchell (Smitchell) on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 11:17 am:

thanks kraig an i did that know i didnt know i could do that

By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 10:20 am:

Steve, yes I can email it. However for future reference, it's easy to save a photo by right clicking on it and selecting "Save Image As..." then browse to the folder you wish to save it in then give the file a name that makes sense to you.

By steve mitchell (Smitchell) on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 10:04 am:

kraig can you email it to me thanks

By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 09:45 am:

Steve, here's one.

By steve mitchell (Smitchell) on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 09:33 am:

i have a wireing isue with the 126 thats the only thing i didnt replace when i did it they were in good shape but now their is something wrong does anyone have a wireing diagram for me

By Greg Edwards (Gfedwards) on Tuesday, January 06, 2009 - 11:36 pm:

I hope to see some of you forum pullers in Columbus this weekend. Drive safe.

By Chris Mastin (Cmastin) on Tuesday, January 06, 2009 - 10:31 pm:

what should a 106 weigh without mower deck and other items not needed for pulling? The tractor has to keep stock front end and cast grill for stock class.

Thanks in advance

By steve mitchell (Smitchell) on Tuesday, January 06, 2009 - 04:09 pm:

heres my puller stock

By George Klapp (Gklapp) on Tuesday, January 06, 2009 - 03:57 pm:

Brennan, you'd best check the "Stock" rules for the club(s) you intend to pull with, some rules may mean the engine brand/type/horsepower that the tractor came from the factory with or it could mean a stock replacement engine non native to that model tractor.

Dennis, Thanks for the clarification on the 82s and gear ratios.

By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 02:56 pm:

I actually said "Twin cylinder Briggs" as in a single engine with two cylinders, 180 deg. opposed cylinders.
I took My information right out of an IH Cub Cadet brochure from 1983. They're not always 100% accurate but in this case the information is correct.
The 582 & 582 "Special"(snicker) did come with a 2-cylinder 180 deg. opposed Briggs engine but I don't think there's much aftermarket support for that engine for pulling, according to MWSC's '09 catalog they only make V-twin engine parts.....could be wrong on that. Julian may make parts not listed in His catalog.

There are later model CC's made by MTD that used the 18 HP opposed 2-cyl. Kohler with the three-speed CC-designed transmission & rearend, Model # was 1806, since it had the creeper installed at the factory. Good luck finding one, They also made 1810,1811,& 1812, all Hydro's without hydraulics (1810) with hyd. lift only(1811) and hyd. lift & aux. remotes (1812).

By Brennan Hoyt (Bhoyt) on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 11:27 am:

What exactly do you mean by "twin"? Are you talking about twin engines (doesn't seem like there enough room) or twin cylinder (one engine)? I am assuming if your running in a stock class the 582 must have came with a twin cylinder from the factory?

By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Monday, January 05, 2009 - 11:26 am:

Actually, 1282 is a 12 HP Kohler K301 HYDRO. And be careful, there's TWO 582's, straight 582 is a 16 HP twin cyl. Briggs & the normal CC three-speed trans, 582 "SPECIAL" is the same engine with a Peerless 4-speed, not NEAR as strong, comparable to the 1100 CC. Also 482 is 4-speed Peerless w/11hp Briggs.

Far as strength for a Puller a 86/108/128 would require the fewest modifications for pulling because any engine could fit but any NF would be lighter.

There's actually three 2nd gear ratios in CC's, If I remember correctly 70 & 100's have 16 tooth 2nds, 3.2 mph @ 3600 rpm, 71's & 102/122's have both 16 & 19 T 2nds depending on when they were built, 3.2 & 3.9 mph, then the 72/73/104/106/124/126's all have 19T, and during the WF 86/108/128/ they started using a 17T 2nd, seems like it was around 3.5 mph.