Cub Cadet general information

Well, I'll be the first to welcome all of you Cub Cadet enthusiasts. I hope you all have a fun time here and let us know what is on your mind. I have lined up a couple of guys who are quite knowledgeable in the Cub Cadet world to answer questions for us. An old IH parts guy has been a wealth of info and we'll try to answer questions and pose a few of our own along the way. We do not claim to be a complete storehouse of knowledge but rather would like to serve as a clearing house for information, sources of old Cub Cadets for those wanting to get one, new and used parts sources, reproduction parts,and restoration resources. If you haven't already, visit http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cubcadet.htm

Brad Boyd - 10:26pm Mar 5, 1998 EST (#2 of 797)
Hey Bob, You 'll probably see a lot of familiar names from Bill Marrison's pulling forum. Does anyone make aftermarket decal sets? What color white is a good sub to use that is made by Sherwinn-Williams? I'm building a stock puller 1968 model 124. Good Day.B.B.

Brad - 01:40pm Mar 6, 1998 EST (#3 of 797)
I'm selling a mid 70's Cub Cadet model 149. It's in average to good condition, a few blemishes here and there; but overall a good tractor. It's got hydraulic lift and a 50" deck. What is the market value of this tractor? Are the original repair manuals still available? I'd like to be able to tune it up and do a few minor things to it before I sell it, but I don't want to take it to the dealer. Thanks.

Bob Necker - 06:08pm Mar 6, 1998 EST (#4 of 797)
Hey Brad Boyd and Brad;
Welcome aboard. I'm sure someone is gonna help you out with that 149. Brad Boyd, I slaved over a hot computer today and came up with a few goodies for you too. Not much on the Sherwin Williams paint though. There doesn't seem to be any one in this part of the country that handles the automotive and other industrial products. I have been told that Martin Seynour and NAPA brand both are made by Sherwin Williams. For what that's worth ! ! Check out the new page on paint. http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cubpaint.htm Just for you Brad. We aim to please ! ! Anybody want to help us out on those decals? Where is the best place to get them? Let me know and I'll get it posted.

Doug Valley - 06:35pm Mar 6, 1998 EST (#5 of 797)
Hi from N.H. Well I've got a couple of Cub Cadets, one I've been building up since last summer. its the early model, belt to the clutch shaft. I don't believe it would make a good puller but, don't get me wrong I love a good tractor pull. I'm building this into a "MONSTER MOWER" as I call it. now I am not a speed freak but I am a little daring. Me and some friends are starting a club called "MONSTER MOWERS". This is not based on just speed, but rather an obstacle course... a little sand,hills and mud, against the clock, best time wins...knock over a cone, and you lose time. Of course, all safety gear. Well, if your not rolling on the floor let me know if anybodys heard of any thing like this. Oh by the way... I call this cub cadet.. "MID LIFE CRISIS"

yardbird - 06:35pm Mar 6, 1998 EST (#6 of 797)
For a great place to get parts for almost any make of engine, lawnmower-tractor, or go-cart parts visit Yardbird lawn And Garden in Houghton Lake. Servicing all brands and now we handle racing Go-carts. In our first year of stock alcohol 5 HP Briggs carts we started late in the season and took 2nd place championship.. Engine and mechanical Experience pays check us out we just have a new webpage http://webatola.com/yardbird/home.html

RON KELLER - 11:51am Mar 7, 1998 EST (#10 of 797)
THE MODEL 86 WAS MADE FROM 1971 TO 1974. IT'S A WIDE FRONT THAT LENDS IT SELF GOOD FOR PULLERS BECAUSE THE WIDER FRAME ALOWS A BIGGER MOTOR. THE PANELS ARE ALSO REMOVABLE UNLIKE EARLIER YEARS. HOPE THAT HELPS.. RON

If you're interested there are some pics of my tractor, mostly involving the restoration of the mower deck here.
http://www.riverport.org/knowles/prj_cadet.html
The main tractor restoration comes next.
http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cubtoys.htm

Tom Hoffman - 09:24am Mar 11, 1998 EST (#32 of 799)
I a have the parts # for the hood side decals. They are from Cub Cadet 2750813R1. The dash decal is #2750805R3. I'm told that the old Cub Cadet white is now CASE/IH # 935, and the old yellow is CASE/IH Federal yellow. LATER TOM

Tom Hoffman - 06:31pm Mar 11, 1998 EST (#33 of 799)
QUESTIONS FOR ALL CUB CADET OWNERS.............. I've been told by a old IH/Cub Cadet dealer that the Cub Cadet was test marketed in the Chicagoland area in 1959. They tested about 100 of them. The serial # charts show the the first Cub Cadet had a serial # of 590. So if IH tested the first 90 would they have serial #'s? Prototypes? If a person had the # 590 Cub Cadet wuold it be the first one or the first marketed one?

RON KELLER - 07:16pm Mar 11, 1998 EST (#34 of 799)
IF ANYONE IS LOOKING FOR PARTS TO RESTORE THEIR CADET OR KEEP THEIR DAILY MOWER GOING TRY MADSON'S GARAGE IN ST NAZIANZ WI THERE PHONE # IS 1-920-773-2661.
MADSON'S GARAGE
114 S 2ND AVE
ST NAZIANZ WI 54232
ASK FOR SCOTT.
THEY HAVE LOTS OF USED PARTS REAR ENDS, MOTORS FRAMES AND SHEET METAL. THEY ALSO HAVE SOME NOS. THEY SELL NEW CADETS ALSO. RON

Bob Necker - 07:38pm Mar 11, 1998 EST (#35 of 799)
You are right on those decal numbers Tom. How does that check out with your info Rick? Also the paint numbers are correct. The number of the Original yellow is 483-B. Be sure to specify that you want the IHC Cub Cadet paint color and decals. Some Cub Cadet (MTD) dealers either do not have access to this information or are unwilling to go to the trouble to look it up. The CASE IH dealer near here is also the Cub Cadet (MTD) dealer so they have access to both sets of info. They have the decals (special order) and paint available. Correct paint available in quarts or rattle can, $10.28 and $4.30 respectively.
Rick, I'll be ordering some of those decals from you as soon as you get everything together and hope all the rest of you do the same. The support for this site and the forum has been great. I hope all of you are enjoying it as much as I am. Putting it all together has been a lot of fun and getting this information in one place, hopefully will help all of us. I sure want to thank Rick for all his help. Were it not for him, this site would problably not exist. Keep up the good work. :)
Also, I have a log on this site and if there is any interest in viewing it let me know. Other than the US, Australia, Canada, Iceland,Netherlands, and Norway are representative of the visitors to the site. We would sure like to hear from you folks out there and have input from your country. Let us know all about your 'imported' Cubs.
What else do you want to see on this site and I'll try to get it done for you. Bob

Tom Hoffman - 10:35pm Mar 11, 1998 EST (#36 of 799)
Bob, How would it work if you had a talk line like they have on Y.T., Antique Tractors,etc. LATER TOM

Tom Hoffman - 10:48pm Mar 11, 1998 EST (#37 of 799)
BY THE WAY,,,,,,,, the reason I've asked the questions about the serial #'s is because I brought #590 home to day! Could it be???

Bob Necker - 12:01am Mar 12, 1998 EST (#38 of 799)
Tom:
Be sure to tell us all about your new treasure. Pictures too ! All reference material I have lists SN 590 as beginning number for International Cub Cadet. Are you the proud owner of # ? ? Numero uno
After all, this is the issue that started this forum.
Nice work Tom. :)

Rick Goodman - 07:14am Mar 12, 1998 EST (#39 of 799)
Hi Everyone, Bob, thanks for the compliment. It has sure taken off much better than we expected. Credit that to all of those who are using the site and especially you guys who are writing in. Bob and I have kinda used our wives as a point of humor at times, but I think we need to get them involved on here too. Lets face it, if they get hooked, they won't care how much time or money we spend on our(but let them think it's their) toys!! Ron, The I H emblems are regretfully all plastic, but brand new.$10.00 will get you one and I'll buy the stamp. Let me know.Tom, glad to hear someone finally found that #590. I was trying to buy it myself a few months ago, as it was advertised , but no one knew where it was! However, one of our books we use at the shop claim that they started with # 501. I'll do some more checking. I hope I'm wrong, but at least those of us who saw the ads for #590 do know that is DOES exist. Congratulations, you should be proud to own it! Till next time, Rick

Rick Goodman - 11:04pm Mar 12, 1998 EST (#40 of 799)
I'm Baaack, Is it bowling night or what? Oh well, as promised, here is a complete list of Cub Cadet paint part #'s available at your friendly Cadet dealer: 759-3263 Old Cadet Yellow quart can 759-3264 Old Cadet Off-White quart can 759-3258 Old Cadet Yellow spray can 759-3259 Old Cadet Off-White spray can 759-3261 Hi-Temp Flat Black spray can 759-3262 Gloss Black spray can 759-3260 Red spray can The following numbers are for the newer Cadet tractors s/n 800,000 and up and lawn mowers s/n 170,601 and up: 759-3589 Cadet Yellow quart can 759-3588 Cadet Yellow spray can 759 3735 Cadet Beige spray can I forgot to get the quart part# for the Cadet Beige, but we don't need it for the old iron we've got anyway. However, the new paint colors do look really good on the older tractors. We had a customer do a 100 in the new shades and it turned out nice. Just a bit of current Cadet Trivia, Did you 1997 was the last year for the garden tractor and super garden tractor as we know it? Yep, MTD in all their wisdom(yeah right), have come up with a totally redesigned tractor similar to the 2000 series. They call it the 3000 series with a shaft driven deck and vacuum operated PTO clutch. It looks like a beefier 2000 tractor with a whole new trans-axle and 4 bolt wheels. Please bow your heads for a moment of silence as we will miss our old friend! Later, Rick

Rick Goodman - 11:14pm Mar 17, 1998 EST (#51 of 799)
Brad,Brad,Brad, Shame on you!!!! Have you considered how old that 149 is? Most brand new dept. store mowers don't last 6 years, let alone the 15+ years your mower had on it when you bought it. How many transmission drive belts have you replaced in the past 6 years? We get the "it's just an MTD" thing alot at the shop and the fact is, Cub Cadets are a separate deal from the MTDs. The garden tractors are as good if not better than when I H built them. The hydros are much smoother andthey all last forever. We have customers who can destroy an anvil with a tack hammer and even they can't tear out a hydro! The cast front axle and spindles are much stronger than the old IH versions. Granted the aluminum engines may not out live the old reliable K-series Kohlers, but at least Cadet uses AMERICAN built engines. J D uses a lot of those Kawasaki rice burners and a lot of belts. Cadet does use 1 Kaw in their line-up but it's a water-cooled version. We just got a new 3000 Series Cadet which replaces the good ole garden tractors and I'll have to admit all in all I like it. It even has a shaft driven deck with power steering and hydraulic lift as standard equipment. At least go and take a look at the 3000 series before you make your choice. Just remember in 37 years when you look out in the garage you can say I've got one of the first year runs of Cub Cadet's totally redesigned 3000!!! Hey it may sound crazy, but look at all of us trying to grab up the 37 year old Originals. If we only knew then.......
Getting off my soap box for a minute, John, I hate to say it but the grille screens and hood ornaments are NLA( the 3 dreaded letters a restorer hates to see). As for your pulleys and timing belt, if properly adjusted and aligned, they should not give you much trouble. They are still available though. Just make sure the teeth in the pulleys are not worn, or you will have a problem with it eating belts( just like a J D ). Well, before I say something I should'nt (oops, probably too late ) I'd better be going. Till next time, Rick

Brad - 08:01am Mar 18, 1998 EST (#52 of 799)
Rick -- I didn't realize that the new Cub Cadets were that much different than the cheapie MTD's. The 149 was very reliable, I was just ready to get something newer, cleaner, and less maintenence. What I really want is the John Deere 325, but the best price I could get is $5400. I found a 318 for $3500 that only has 300 hours on it, so that's the one I'm buying. It has power steering and dual hydraulics, and since I only have 1/2 acre, it's more than I'll need. Here's a question to any mechanic out there....Anyone know how to adjust the seat on the John Deeres to get a little more leg room? Even when they're all the way back, my knees are cramped. Thanks!

Bob Necker - 08:47am Mar 18, 1998 EST (#53 of 799)
Brad:
I have to agree with Rick about the new Cub Cadets being a cut above the rest of the (MTD) lineup. Pun intended. They truly are well built machine. Maybe not as simple or as easy for the average person to repair as the Originals or even as cute, but nevertheless a quality piece of equipment. You might want to check out the true origins of that green machine and also see if your old tool set will work on it. As for seat adjustment, better look on the green forum. If it's answers to questions about the Cub Cadet, now, here's the place. That green paint sure is expensive ! !

Bob Necker - 03:08pm Mar 18, 1998 EST (#54 of 799)
Brad:
Maybe you could get some foot pegs or forward controls for that green lawn mower. Or, better yet go to your local Cub Cadet dealer and fit yourself on a new cushy 3000. I'll bet you'll find leg room and comfort exceeding your old 149. (Just watch out so you don't fall asleep on it !) And, fer Gawd's sake, don't take the wife along or you'll be gettin' one delivered and never get to play with it.
Gotta give you a bit of a hard time, Brad ! I've got some of that green stuff around too ! There shall be no 'color' discrimination on this forum ! (As long as it's yallar an' wite.)

Ralph Olbon - 09:58pm Mar 18, 1998 EST (#55 of 799)
Hey guys, I asked this question once before and did'nt get any answers, so I thought Id try it again. Do'es anybody know if there is a book,catolog,etc. with pictures of the different models of cub cadets, and the options that came with them(1961-1979) Thanks Ralph

Ralph:
I'll answer this question head-on. The very reason this site exists is to answer your question. It came about because a couple guys got to wondering about the same thing you are. Pretty soon it was four or five guys e-mailing one another and exchanging info about their Cub Cadets. Pretty soon there was a bunch of info that we thought others should know about. And here it is. We are still young and growing. The acceptance and support for this site has been overwhelming. Our log shows that we have about 95 regular visitors and more than 700 casual visitors since the launch of our site on February 8, 1998.
To the best of my knowledge and some other Cub Cadet sources there is no known complete, concise body of printed work that documents or in any way gives a history or background of the Cub Cadet. The information available on the Cub Cadet Unofficial Homepage is obtained from IHC advertising, parts manuals, operators manuals and other verifiable sources.
Any information you may have that will help us to put together the very document you seek will be accepted. Old advertising is great. Sometimes a prototype will show up in advertising prepared well in advance of the actual public release date and an obvious change was made . Old parts and operators manuals are readily available and any deviations or anomalies to these standards we would like to hear about. (Now just where did you say that serial number was ! ?) The site is grateful for the input of some very knowledgeable folks. Their savvy on the Cub Cadet covers the spectrum from current day Cub Cadet technicians to an old time IHC parts guy. Gotta remember he wasn't an old guy 37 years ago! Lots of the early Cub Cadets were "ridden hard and put away wet" so if you find that mint serial number 501 be sure to let us know.

Rick Goodman - 12:00am Mar 19, 1998 EST (#57 of 799)
Thanks guys, It's good to get a little support now and then in this world of "I'll just keep my mouth shut". Brad, That $5400 plus a few more(hundred) will get you an 18 hp. 3000 tractor with a 54" deck. Power steering, hydraulic lift, tilt wheel, shaft driven deck,and enough leg room for Shaq all come as standard equipment. The best part is, it's not green! OK, if you already bought I hope you get along well.To each his own. keep us informed how you get along.
Ralph, if I get time before spring field work I am going to try to go through the parts books and attachments books 1 model at a time and compile what options were available. It sounds like more of a winter time project,but we'll see how it goes. I also have a couple of gentlemen the check with who may or may not be doing some research on old garden tractors.
Thanks again to Bob for coming to my defense. I was at the local FFA department this evening for an adult farmer meeting. The topic was the internet and people got to work with it hands on.I soon became a celebrity when I showed this site and there big as life was my name on the forum. Now I am the "expert" at the internet! If they only knew!!! Gotta go for now, Rick

Scott Strance - 09:01pm Mar 19, 1998 EST (#58 of 799)
Growing up our family had a mid-70's cub, hydrostatic, big deck etc. Loved that unit. I've restored a 'green' 8hp model and enjoyed that project and it's time to move on to the real machines.....
Does anyone have leads on 12-15hp cubs w/decks for sale for restoration? Not interested in anyones junk, just a solid platform to put some time into. Thx!

Rick Goodman - 09:54pm Mar 19, 1998 EST (#59 of 799)
Welcome Scott,
Glad to hear you know what a "real" garden tractor is. Let us know where you live so we can help you find something to get started with. Hope you don't live anywhere in Montana near Bob cause you don't stand a chance. That guy must have radar to sniff out those hidden treasures!
John, thanks for the e-mail. Sounds like you are on the right track. The manuals should help you with your tractor and the one your dealer has will be lots of help as well.
As for the search for the metal I H emblem that goes on the grille, plastic ones are all I can get new. I tried ordering 2 different part #'s but both are plastic. They are a bit different though and the parts book listed both as optional. Not sure if that meant they were an option or if they may have used either one as a production option and give 2 choices so you can match the one yours came with??? If anyone knows the answer to this one please let us know. Guess thats all I've got for now, Rick

Peter Knowles - 10:36pm Mar 19, 1998 EST (#60 of 799)
Hi All,
It snowed here in Nova Scotia so I had a chance to get the 122 out and plow my very long drive, what a blast! I love going wide open so that the snow curls off the blade in a nice steady flow.
I'm looking for both the steering wheel and seat for my 122. My MTD dealer thinks they are NLA. Have I any other options? I suppose I could have the wheel rebuilt, is this costly?
Peter by-the-sea Knowles

Tom Hoffman - 09:11pm Mar 20, 1998 EST (#61 of 799)
I was talking to a couple of "Old Timers" at the Toy/Tractor show last weekend, and I was told that the first Cub Cadets were red! The decision to develop a Garden-type tractor was made in February 1960. They also had sheet metal from the CUB fuel tank as the hood! I found some info that said that the fisrt Cub Cadets were to be called "Cub-Urban", "Ranch-All" and later in the development the "Cub-ette". It was released in November 1960 as the "7hp. CUB-ETTE Tractor"! More info as I can find it!!!!! LATER TOM

Jim Gilboy - 10:49pm Mar 21, 1998 EST (#66 of 799)
Just got back from a parts run to BURLINGTON, WI. Otter Sales & Service has a huge back room of donor Cub Cadets, and a darn good inventory of OEM parts. My "shift shaft" broke, and since they did not have a used replacement, ( new one : $ 90.00 )they were nice enough to weld & repair mine!!! ( 1967 "102" 10h.p.) I talked with Kurt & Brad who run the business. For hard to find parts call them at 414-763-3563. This is a real unsolicited testimonial !!! Jim G.

Brian Severns - 10:57pm Mar 21, 1998 EST (#67 of 799)
I just found this forum and I think its great. I am a garden tractor puller in northern In. I also get questions as to why so many cubs(I have an original,two 102's,three 122's,a 100,and a 1000). Interesting info on the originals,is it possible that the test market started with number 500 ,since someone said it consisted of 90 tractors,and then regular production models started with number 590? I never have looked at the serial numbers , but I will have to check them all now that there is a place for me to look. I am looking for a hood ornament for my original and have had noluck,also would like some cadet hub caps if anyone has a set to part with. I purchased a decal set for the original but it is not quite right, the hood decals are not the same as the ones in the cadet repair manual, yes I drive the Case dealer nuts looking up parts. Now when I go there they just hand me the book and I find what I need, they keep telling me I could get my own copy of the manual for around forty bucks. Well I have run on long enough, Brian

Rick Goodman - 10:29pm Mar 25, 1998 EST (#81 of 799)
Jared, You are right about having the first hydro Cub Cadet tractor built. I have a 122 and would love to have a 123 to go with it someday. As for the oil and filter, please use a Cadet hydro filter on it. There are many "will fit" filters out there and some after market brands such as NAPA,but these don't have the right micron filtering properties and in some cases, the right bypass pressure relief. As for the oil, you should also use either Case IH Hy-Tran fluid or Cub Cadet's Hydraulic/Transmission fluid. They are both the exact same oil in different bottles. We use the Case IH brand here at home in our I H farm tractors, it just depends which one you have access to. I recommend you change the filter once a year and the oil every two to three years, depending on how much you use it. Since you just bought it, I would definately change it now because it's hard to tell how long that stuff has been in there! The system holds 7 quarts with the filter and on just a filter change you will probably lose only about a quart.
Tom, I fugured out the hood ornament deal about 2 weeks ago. We have 3 IH tractors with the doggone things on them, and I have sat for hundreds of hours starring right at them and didn't even realize what I had been looking at!! I have an extra hood for one of our IH 656 tractors and walked by it a couple of weeks ago ( to go work on the Original ) and that's when the light finally came on in that thick head of mine. I have already aquired a few, so if anyone needs a hood ornament for an Original let me know, I have some.
It's good to see some new people on the forum and you guys are doing a great job with your fact finding missions. I wrote to C.H.Wendel to see if he had anything on the IH Cub Cadets but with all his research on IH and farm tractors in general, he has nothing. Guess it's up to us!!
Later, Rick

eric knotts - 10:31pm Mar 29, 1998 EST (#86 of 799)
I have a 1971 cadet and im in dire need of a engine. It came with the 7hp (k161). Question, will any other size engine fit on this year tractor. Please let me know at Jascoeric@aol.comThank you very much ps Im located in atlanta ga.

Tom Hoffman - 09:53pm Mar 31, 1998 EST (#87 of 799)
Eric, The Original Cub Cadets had what was called a replacement engine, in case the standard went south. It is called the K-181. This engine is a 8hp. model. It looks a little different from the K-161 and usually has the side moounted air cleaner like the mobel 70.
Does anyone know how to tighten the front clutch on a 100? The finger at the end of the adjusting rod is now against the grill and it's slipping. Will the clutch from a 12hp. engine fit the shaft?

RON KELLER - 10:10pm Apr 2, 1998 EST (#94 of 799)
That dash would be for a 1961-63 also need a new set of 4.80 x 8.00 rib all weather front tires made by good year. There the tires originally on the front of the 61-3 regulars. Good Year product code 202-076-388. thanks

Wayne Harkleroad - 04:59pm Apr 10, 1998 EST (#112 of 800)
I talked to a gentleman today from Cub Cadet by the name of Terry Watson. He is a regional manager from Virginia to New York. Terry has been around Cubs since they were first introduced, his dad had an IH dealer way back then. Terry told me that the first serial number was 501 just like all the other IH tractors. I asked him about the color of red being on the first 89 and he said that they have always been yellow and white. The engineer that was responsible for the design of the Original was a man by the name of Bob Carlson, who is supposed to still be alive. Also a man named Russ Decker was VP of sales back then had a lot to do with the design too.

Tom Hoffman - 10:26pm Apr 10, 1998 EST (#113 of 800)
Hey Wayne, what do you think the chances of getting a hold of Bob Carlson would be? It sure would be interesting reading!! As I'm hearing it now the first 3-4 were painted red, and the big wigs didn't like them that way. So they went to the Industrial paint scheme.(federal yellow)

Rick Goodman - 09:26pm Apr 11, 1998 EST (#114 of 800)
Happy Easter Eve, Jared, just paint the grille with a good aluminum spray paint. It'll look just fine.
Tom, It may be a stretch, but if you painted the motor and put the condensor back on, it may not be grounded good enough to run at high idle. a bad or improperly grounded condensor will gvie you fits and you'll swear (and I mean that literally) that it is a fuel problem. In my younger days I have rebuilt perfectly good carbs and it ended up being the condensor. I have amazed people at the shop with this quick fix. sometimes it will even run smooth at all speed untill you put a load on the engine. Or, it could be a piece of dirt in the carb. Could have dislodged when you put on the new gasket. If that don't fix it, you ought just sell the darn thing to me, cheap since it won't run right. Fat chance, huh!!!
Hope the Easter Bunny is good to you all and you find something Federal Yellow in your basket.
Till next time ,
Rick

Just so we don't forget:
THINGS WE CAN LEARN FROM A DOG
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure ecstasy.
When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
When it's in your best interest, practice obedience.
Let others know when they've invaded your territory.
Take naps and stretch before rising.
Run, romp and play daily.
Eat with gusto and enthusiasm.
Be loyal.
Never pretend to be something you're not.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by and nuzzle them gently.
Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
Avoid biting when a simple growl will do. On hot days, drink lots of water and lay under a shady tree.
When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire body.
No matter how often you're scolded, don't buy into the guilt thing and pout...run right back and make friends.
Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.

Kenneth Updike - 09:28am Apr 14, 1998 EST (#118 of 800)
I was e-mailed about the existance of this site and will have to explore fully, later. I have the answers on the original paint color choices, (both the red & yellow)and development of the Cub Cadet from its conception to production. I will post this info in a few days. Also, I'm looking for list prices of IH built Cub Cadets for a forthcoming book I'm currently researching. Can anyone help????? Is there any one interested in a book on the Cub Cadet/Cub & Cub Lo-Boy tractor line??????? Here's some trivia to think about; Did IH build a 154 Cub Lo-Boy tractor with a HYDROSTATIC transmission??????...YES!!!!!!!

Stephen LaRoche - 07:28am Apr 15, 1998 EST (#124 of 800)
Bob Necker, here is a question for you. On my first Original Cub Cadet I restored I can't get it to low idle without it stalling out. I can get it slightly above a low idle if I choke it a little. Now the other day I noticed gas leaking out of the carburetor and it started filling up the oil breather. Well I changed the Fuel shut off valve (had a new spare). that seems to have solved that problem, but here is the puzzling part. I had changed the little nut and needle that goes inside the fuel bowl above the float. The old needle was very worn and shot. Do you think that the reason my gas overflowed into the oil breather was because the float isn't pushing the little needle all the way up and closing the fuel off? If this is the case, how do I know how far to bend the little tang on the metal float, trial or error? Should I just leave it alone, and don't worry about it(only happens when its parked in the shed and never happened before)? I tried to adjust one time the low idle with the idle screw but it didn't help. I can't figure out if this thing is getting too much fuel when I try to go to low idle or not enough(when I have to slightly choke it) when I am trying to get it to run at slightly above low idle. At max or slightly below max rpms it run fine. The choke cable and throttle cable look like they are installed correctly. My second original Cub Cadet runs fantastic! This one however is puzzling me. I think the answer is in the float adjustment. What do you think?, I just want to be able to run this thing at low idle without it stalling out. I suspect the float adjustment is the problem. Any ideas or suggestions? My first show is April 26th in East Hampton, Ct. I'll be bringing both Cub Cadets. I will send you a few pictures. Email me your address. The headlights look great on the picture you told another fellow to check out. I wish I could find a set. I wish I knew if they were actually an option. To the person looking for the rear tires for the Original Carlisle tires makes the 6x12 They are exactly like the original. Like a snow tire tread. Stephen in Connecticut

Mike Yacavone - 07:50am Apr 15, 1998 EST (#125 of 800)
Ken, I'll buy the book also. Please advise when available. Does anyone have info on availability of a Brinly lift and drawbar attachment for a 149 Cub three point hitch arrangement to work with a Brinly one bottom plow ? Thanks
Mike - Connecticut

Kenneth Updike - 08:31am Apr 15, 1998 EST (#126 of 800)
I would invite readers of this post to see our Cub Cadet site at www.mailbag.com/users/cngcoinc We have been a Cub Cadet dealer from the start of the Cub Cadet line and have a nice site with a lot of PRICED parts listed and more!!!!! I have "been there and done that" with a Cub Cadet (own a 782 and Spirit of 76, myself). We offer parts, service and new machine sales along with complete ground-up restorations. Check it out!!!!

Stephen LaRoche - 07:17am Apr 16, 1998 EST (#134 of 800)
Bob Necker, Well last night I took the fuel bowl off and checked my float. I pushed up the float level, then as high as it could go and it still didn't shut off the needle to the closed position. I said ok, thats the problem. I bent the little tang and reinstalled the float. checked to make sure that when the float went level, it closed off the fuel needle valve. Slapped it together and ran it. Adjusted the low idle and it runs pretty darn good. My second Cub Cadet runs a little better , but that engine had been overhauled a few years back. I am going to check into those head lights. I will check with my local dealer today. But they were an accessory for these back then? How do you know which terminal on the starter/generator to connect the hot wire to ? Also I took some pictures last night of both of the cub Cadets together. A spectacular sight!!! I checked the web site Ken Updike (www.mailbag.com/) said was for the Cub Cadets but I couldn't identify any Original Cub Cadet parts. I also would be interested in the Book people were talking about.

Kenneth Updike - 08:59am Apr 16, 1998 EST (#135 of 800)
Anyone on this forum interested in having decals made for the Spirit of 76 Cadets???? They are NLA from IH and Cub Cadet. I was able to acquire a copy of all the decal blueprints for these and would have some sets printed if others would buy them too. According to my production records from IH the number of Spirit of 76 Cadets built was 3,504 of these great lil Cadets. Which in 1975-1976 terms equates to about 1.2 units alloted per IH dealer. Not very many are out there!!!!!!

Kenneth Updike - 08:25am Apr 25, 1998 EST (#152 of 800)
As I had noted before, here's some IH Cub Cadet paint facts to ponder. The IH tractor committee report # 49 dated 9-29-1960 states the following on Cub Cadet paint;"Recommendation is made to the product Identification Committee that wheels, seat, grille screen and hood be painted Harvester White; the shifter knob,steering wheel, foot rests, and control buttons are to be black; balance of tractor is to be painted Federal Yellow with Harvester Red as optional....Implements will painted one solid color of Harvester White so that they can be use with tractors of either color combination" At the meeting being held on October 13,1960 tractors displaying BOTH color combinations will be displayed for committee review. Yes....IH Red was going to be an optional color right from the start, it only took nearly 30 years to get back to it in the 82 series. To find out more about Cub cadet colors and paint please see the May 1998 issue of RED POWER Magazine.

RON KELLER - 09:15am Apr 25, 1998 EST (#153 of 800)
KEN, THEN IN 1961 THERES A CHANCE THAT YOU COULD GET A CUB CADET IN RED. WOULD IT BE WRONG THEN TO PAINT ONE RED?

Kenneth Updike - 03:00pm Apr 25, 1998 EST (#154 of 800)
A post note to my Cub Cadet Paint posting. The report from IH also states;"The Divisional Product Committee is in agreement with this report, with the exception of Harvester Red as an optional color. We request that this option be eliminated and tractors be introduced with the color combination of yellow and white." So...unless your Cub Cadet is SN# 525 or BELOW, no you could not LEGALLY paint it IH red.

Bruce Palsgrove - 11:04am Apr 26, 1998 EST (#157 of 800)
I have a high-low gear box for a Cub that I would like to sell. It came with my 1200, since I am making a puller out of it, I don't need this gear box. The front bearing is out of it. I can fix this or sell "as is" (prefer as-is) I'll include the drive shaft also. Price? I haven't a clue what its worth, I sure could use the $$'s though. If someone can use it make me an offer. I have 2 sets of cast Cub wheel weights I would part with also. Not pretty looking but the came from a Cub stamped with IH on them if I recall. Gearbox could be shipped, weights don't think so :) I'm located in Eastern PA.

Tom Hoffman - 11:56am Apr 26, 1998 EST (#158 of 800)
Ken, On many serial # lists, including the one on this site, the starting serial # for the Cub Cadet is #590. I DO beleive that, in keeping with IH thinking that the start IS with #501. Why do you think that several lists come up with the #590 starting number. Could it be that that this is the number that first released to the public?? LATER TOM

Bob Necker - 06:30pm Apr 26, 1998 EST (#159 of 800)
Bruce, Creeper - Two speed rear , Hhhhmmmmm, well kinda but not really. The creeper gear is ahead of the transmission and has a planetary gear arrangement with input to the transmission, but since the transmission and the differential assemblies are in the same housing I guess it could be a two speed rear end. A shorter driveshaft is used and sheet metal with a slot for the actuating lever are necessary for proper installation. A factory option probably. Ken, I noticed in post #154 that you refer to serial number 525. Would the inference be correct that serial number 526 actually exists and that it is Federal yellow and IH white?
The serial number list on the web site http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cubcadet.htm is from "Hot Line Farm Equipment Guide's" 1997 Edition of "Quick Reference Guide", published by: Heartland Communications Group Inc. 1003 Central Ave PO Box 1052 Fort Dodge, IA 50501
Bruce, are those wheel weights for a Cub or Cub Cadet and how much do they weigh?

Kenneth Updike - 08:49am Apr 27, 1998 EST (#166 of 800)
In post #154 I reference Cub Cadets sn#525 and below. The question has been posed as to any Cub Cadets that exist with a serial # below #590. Yes I do believe they are still around. A number of these are in the Chicagoland and the Phoenix, AZ. areas. As for the serial number data, I personally use only genuine OEM (IH) production records and IH corporate letters and documents. I have found that sites which use data from the "red books or Blue books" have major data flaws in them. I refer to these "data books" as nothing more than "coloring books". As for the #590 Cub Cadet, I think this is the first Cub Cadet made at Louisville, Ky. IH factory. My point is this, in all my years of researching and acquiring IH records, alot of these so called "data books" or "reference guides" use and spread bad information. Personally, if I can't prove a machines existance with photos or records from IH, it never existed. I believe in IH facts not IH fiction.

Bob Necker - 12:18am Apr 28, 1998 EST (#169 of 800)
Ken: Thanks so much for your input into the forum. We do know that #590 is alive and well. Owned by a frequent contributor to this forum. If there is in fact a machine with a lower serial number I would certainly be interested seeing supporting documentation.
The data and information on http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cubcadet.htm is compiled from IH reference materials such as parts books, advertising, owners manuals, and other official publications. Your statement that ...sites which use data from the "red books or Blue books" have major data flaws in them... somehow seems to paint with a rather broad stroke. All information on this site is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
The serial number 590 is generally accepted as the starting number by IH and Cub Cadet dealers. Although the "red" and "blue" books are not official OEM publications I have found that the information they provide is generally provided by or obtained from the OEM. Other than a few minor discrepencies and typos, I have found the information provided therein to be generally accurate. May we infer from the information in post #166 that you have ... genuine OEM (IH) production records and IH corporate letters and documents... that support the supposition that pre serial number 590 machines exist?
It is exciting to think that maybe there are possibly 89 Cub Cadet Originals out there that preceded the first production tractor available to the general public.
If this documentation does exist Iwould love to see it.

Kenneth Updike - 08:25am Apr 28, 1998 EST (#170 of 800)
The IH tractor committee report #49A dated 1-3-61 tells where IH put the initial production run of 25 Cub Cadet tractors outfitted with both mowing decks and front mounted blades. These units were placed with commmercial/industrial users to rapidly have hours of use put on them. IH engineering wanted 25 hours of mowing and 25 hours of blading work to be done with each unit. I'll list a few of the units intial testing locations here for everyone. Serial #501 & 502 were sent to Miami, FL. #503 went to the Gator Bowl in Jacksonville, FL. #504 & #514 went to the Park Distric in Ft. Pierce, Fl. #505 went to Tifton, Ga. #506 went to the Parks Dept in Orlando, Fl. #507 went to Atlanta, Ga. #509 went to the McCoy Air Force Base in Pinecastle, Fl. After the field results were transmitted back to IH engineers, and the units were given a passing note by the engineering staff, a second trial batch of Cub Cadets were built. What happened to the first Cub Cadets???? Some were sold to IH executives, or the project engineers themselves. A number of the "pre production" units were sold by former IH dealers in the western Chicago-land area and are still in the area today. What does this mean??? That #590 is the first production Cub Cadet from Louisville, Ky. but 89 other Cub Cadets were hand built prior to that by IH engineering. Cub Cadet #590 may be accepted as the first Cub Cadet by some. The Louisville,Ky. IH production records show this as the first one built there, but it is by no means the first Cub Cadet. The serial number data we dealers recieve from Cub Cadet today still shows the original starting at #501.

Kenneth Updike - 03:31pm Apr 30, 1998 EST (#186 of 800)
The early hand built Cub Cadets (sn#501 to #589) were probably made at the Hinsdale, IL. IH Engineering Center. A few MAY have been built at Louisville, Ky. IH factory to test out the assembly line for production problems too. For those needing info on the IH Collectors club, they have online membership e-mail at: ihcclub@aol.com. Or for those who are "internet challenged" the mailing address is IH Collectors Membership Dept. 310 Busse Hwy. Suite 250 Park Ridge, IL. 60068-3251. Cost is $10 annually. They have chapters all over the USA, Canada, and Europe. EVERYONE with an interest in ANY IH product is welcome!!! IH built or offered hundreds of different items from sales literature, to tractors, to trucks, to refrigeration, and of course Cub Cadets!!!! Its not just a IH tractor club!!!! Alot of the members including myself, use and collect Cub Cadets.
If I have stirred things up for people on this Cub Cadet forum, GREAT!!! I'll use a Cub with a model 1000 front loader to really pour it on next time. Who knows what will turn up next on the IH Cub Cadets???

Tom Hoffman - 09:20pm Apr 30, 1998 EST (#187 of 800)
BOB,
Do you where a mask when you buy(?) these tractors? They don't go that cheap around here!
Anybody in the Northern Illinois area.....There is a auction this weekend at Buck Brothers (a John Deere dealer in Hampshire.IL.) that will have about 12 used Cub Cadets on the block.
A few weeks ago I asked the ? what would cause my 61' to not run smoothly at a high idle. It boiled down to a weak spark. A new set of points and a new condenser did the trick. Runs great now!
LATER TOM

Phil Goodwin - 09:51am May 1, 1998 EST (#191 of 800)
I thought this info might help some "new" owners of the "old" machines discussed in this forum. There are parts manuals and information available from: Cub Cadet Corporation, in Cleveland, Ohio. The following are the publication numbers and cost: Model 70-100 Owners Manual 1014393R8 $4.00. Parts Manual TC-113 $27.00. Chassis Manual GSS-1349 $5.00. Engine Manual GSS-1350 $3.50. Total cost me $42.50 with shipping and took 5 days to arrive. Comes with a nice light blue three ring binder with a Model 70 pictured on the front and holds the contents of the manuals (about 400 pages). The information contained features detailed schematics and locations of every part of the tractors, indicates what is and isn't available or manufactured anymore and well worth the cash. To speed up the shipping you can call the company @ 1-330-273-4550. Hope I have helped someone. Phil Goodwin Rochester, New York

Kenneth Updike - 09:02am May 2, 1998 EST (#198 of 800)
TOM, The early cub fuel line is held on with brass fittings and rubber sleeves. IH used this same type of connectors in the 806 and 1206 diesel tractor's fuel system. The part number for the rubber sleeve is 144526H1 and they costs a whopping 50 cents each. The fuel line is not flared!!

Rick Goodman - 04:38pm May 2, 1998 EST (#199 of 800)
Wow,
I leave you guys alone for a couple of weeks and look what you happens! I always miss out on the good stuff. Got a lot of field work done though. Also picked up a model 1000 with a super good 44" deck for $150.
The Original decal deal didn't work out but I found out about a lady that makes decals for old farm tractors.I am going to check this out and I'll keep you posted.
Sounds like South would be a good direction to go for vacation this year. Supposes the wife and kids would get mad if we stopped at every old farmhouse in Fla? If those things (pre-590) are out there, one will turn up sooner or later. Let's just all be glad we are able to own a few of the best old garden tractors built in the world.
I also wanted to say hi to the new names I saw on here. It's good to see all the interest in this growing hobby. Well, with all the rain we've had here the last few days, I'd better go. It's my turn to put my finger in the hole in the dike! Later, Rick

Dave Holtmart - 09:14pm May 2, 1998 EST (#200 of 800)
Hi guys this question is for Rick or Ken where is the serial number located on the first of the 7hp. cadets? Also the one I have the deck mounts on the front and has it's own 5hp. briggs engine it's 36inch cut 2 blade. I have no idea what brand it is or color it was (allrust finish now) if either of you has any info on it , I would like it if possible. The only thing I know is it was sold here locally and the dealer died several years ago, and the owner is gone to. Thanks Dave

David Cripps - 11:06pm May 2, 1998 EST (#201 of 800)
Where can I get the 7HP decal that goes on the gas tank of the originals also the dash decal? Thanks, David

Rick Goodman - 02:28am May 3, 1998 EST (#202 of 800)
Dave,
The serial # is stamped into the transmission housing on the right hand side of the tranny. I don't know what kind of deck you are referring to. As far as I know, all decks on the Originals were a belly mount. Anyone else know about anything aftermarket that mounts on the front?
David, as for the gas tank decals, I am pretty sure they are no longer available. However, I got an accessory parts book from a Kohler distributor and there are some decals with the HP. designations ( man, these big words are scaring me) and I have ordered a few to see if I can make them look as close to authentic as possible. I think they will work and as soon as I get them I'll let you all know. As for the dash decal, I have them in stock. Let me know if you need one.
I am in need of a decal set for a "Spirit of 76" lawn tractor. Anyone got a set for sale. Hopefully I'll be able to get a picture of my 76 on the page soon. It's a neat piece of work and my 8 year old daughter has already claimed it as "hers". Can't argue with that!!.
Anyone got any K161 or K181 engines or parts for them for sale? Let me know. Till next time, Rick

John Withouse - 09:26am May 4, 1998 EST (#207 of 800)
Scott, it may be possible to add the hydraulic implement lift to a non-hydraulic lift hydro, but it may not be as simple as just tapping the valve block. The charge pump relief valve (70 - 100 psi) is on the top of the valve block on non-hydraulic lift hydros, but it moves to the right side of the valve block on hydraulic lift equipped models. The implement lift relief valve (500 - 625 psi) goes in it's place on top of the valve block. My brother-in-law and I have been looking into this because he wants to try it on his 147. If he tries it, I'll post the results (good or bad) to this forum.

John Simpson - 09:55am May 4, 1998 EST (#208 of 800)
I have a 128 (fairly decent) and am trying tom persuade the owner of a clean 70 to sell it to me. Which one should I restore and which one should I build for pulling? What range should I consider paying for a clean model 70?

Stephen LaRoche - 10:42am May 4, 1998 EST (#209 of 800)
David C. contact Brandon Pfeiffer for the 7HP decals. I got a few sets from him. They are identical to the originals. I think he charges $6.00 a pair. brandonp@evansville.net He is in Illinois Bob Necker: I live just off I-91 in Enfield Ct. At the border of Mass. My brother-in-law picked up the rear half of an Original Cub Cadet. I wonder if he would want to sell it. I will have to ask. But your leaving tomorrow and I know I wouldn't get back to you in time. Oh well. Have a great trip. NH is beautiful.

Tom Hoffman - 08:09pm May 7, 1998 EST (#224 of 800)
Steve at #218. Go to Yahoo and type in rfhoutz that will take you to R.F. Houtz ans Son's site. He is located in northern Illinois. LATER TOM

Harry Bursell - 11:29pm May 8, 1998 EST (#234 of 800)
Bob just got through all the posted messages. Didn't realize you were close to CT. What did you pick up in NH? If you get this in time and want to go a few hours out of your way I'm just off I-84 between Waterbury and Danbury CT. I've got a 124, 169 and 86 under my deck, all basket cases. Hope to get to them sometime. I use a 1450 all the time. I've restored a 122, 124, 126 and 129. Sold them after I finished each as they almost broke me to complete. Generally cost $400-500 for a decent machine but the parts can kill. Muffler at $20, tires at $40 or better, engine rebuild $300, thro-out bearing $26. By the time you're done its $1500 but what beautiful machines especially in the right colors. Although original paint in this area is $20 qt and $9 for a rattle can. Someone earlier mentioned prices half of these. Wish I new where that was. Also came across some NOS parts from a dealer that closed. Don't know what some of them are but many have IH part no.s. Also just finished going over an 1872 Super I'm trying to sell now. Has 740 hours and 60in deck. Wondered if anyone was familiar with this deck (model 190-374-100) as it is quite square cut and welded rather than the usual stamped steel type on most decks. What I wondered was if this was an old style IH original deck that MTD reused?? Weighs a ton. Thought it may have been originally from a Cub Low Boy or something else. The reason I ask is that when I bought new belts, the deck belt still uses and is marked with an IH part no. while the power take-off is marked CCC. Anyone know? Anyway Bob, e-mail me at IHCUBCADET@aol.com, or call me at 203-266-9258 I'll be home Sat. and Sun. Anyone else can call if you like to chat about cubs, need a part.

Harry Bursell - 11:20pm May 9, 1998 EST (#241 of 800)
Hope I'm not sending to many of these. Forgot to mention I came across a guy at a flea market that has Cub Cadet seats, vinyl with pad (without the metal pans). They apparently are factory seconds. They are the newer high back type (14in when you measure straight vertical line). They have the "Cub Cadet" logo molded in and he gets $25 each. I put one on mine, took a while to get it pulled around good but sure looks great and it's better than the $100 total new seat. I could try and get some if anyones interested. Post a reply here or e-mail me at IHCUBCADET@aol.com.

Harry Bursell - 10:12am May 10, 1998 EST (#246 of 800)
Note to all show guys and restorers of 71, 102, 122 and 123 units. I've got a mint condition original "Operator's Manual". Has the orange heavy paper cover. On the back is part no. 1 082 592 R3 with 8-4-67-14B. I make this as a revision 3 published in 1967. I'd be open to a reasonable offer.

Harry Bursell - 10:24am May 10, 1998 EST (#247 of 800)
Brad @ #3 - I didn't see anyone suggest pricing for your 149. My guess is $6-700 on the low side if it is rough to as much as $18-2400 if its great. I sold a 129 last December for $2500. I painted it and did some of the usual things (steering box cam follower, new seat, good tires, wheel bearings), but it was hardly used and in great shape when I got it. Had 42in deck and 42in blower. Hope this helps. Hey, you can still get service manuals from Cub. Don't have the number here but it's an 800. You can call 800 info for Cub Cadet in Cleveland.

Harry Bursell - 10:31am May 10, 1998 EST (#248 of 800)
Kevin @ 18 - I sold a creeper and drive shaft last year for $150. Then sold a 124 rear with creeper for $250. There's a guy in the area advertising a creeper now for $250. Hey, I've got the Cub installation instructions booklet for installing creeper in 86, 108, 128. Its 4 or 5 pages I could copy and mail if you need it. I think the creepers install mostly all the same but it was easier on the 86-128 models because there is a removable frame cover in front of the seat. Hope this helps. Let me know.

Harry Bursell - 10:44am May 10, 1998 EST (#249 of 800)
Message to Bob Necker - I don't have a CASE/IH dealer in my area. Do you or some one know a dealer that would ship the paint to CT. My cub dealers get double the CASE/IH prices. I usually use 6-8 rattle cans and 2 qts when I do a machine.

Tom Hoffman - 11:01am May 10, 1998 EST (#250 of 800)
Harry @ 249. Do you have a CASE/IH "Construction Equipment" dealer near you? They can get it for you! LATER TOM

Harry Bursell - 11:04am May 10, 1998 EST (#251 of 800)
Rick Goodman @#81 - I've been using Valvoline Universal Tractor Fluid. It lists all the fluid compliance types including IH Hy-Tran B6 as well as many others. I get it for $7 gal. at the NAPA store. From the Cub dealer its $3.50 Qt. I do use the Cub filters but they are $9ea. This seems high. I also noted the Operators manual for 122 notes using the Hy-tran OR SAE30 oil for manual shift units. What do you think.

Mike Wheat - 01:57pm May 10, 1998 EST (#252 of 800)
Harry @ 251...I've used Valvoline 30 wt oil in my motors(10-40 in winter) and rearends for years...this includes our pulling tractor. Never have had any problems. Most of the guys I know do the same. As you said, it is the manual. Mike

John Simpson - 02:48pm May 10, 1998 EST (#253 of 800)
I use Amsoil Series 20-50 Racing Oil in my Harleys and lawn equipment, Series 3000 5-30 in my Cummins Diesel, and Series 2000 0-30 in everything else. Nothing comes close to the service I get from these products. I also use Amsoil synthetic grease and synthetic transmission fluid.

Harry Bursell - 03:28pm May 10, 1998 EST (#254 of 800)
Tom @250 - I don't know of a CASE/IH Dealer, Farm or Construction Equipment. I checked the phone books for Danbury, Waterbury and New Haven CT and found nothing. This area is a little strange that way. Possibly there is one in NY or MASS. Anybody know??

Anton Rothbauer - 07:06pm May 10, 1998 EST (#257 of 800)
Anyone know of source for Original 4.80/4.00/8 front tires. I need three sets and would also consider very good used ones. Indiana anton@otherside.com

Harry Bursell - 08:57pm May 10, 1998 EST (#258 of 800)
Bob Necker and others - your old iron web site notes cubs built until 1979 by IHC. I came across one of those catalogs like the Web page for Parts and Accessories. It's titled "International Power Lawn Products Parts and Accessories '80" (meaning 1980). There is a red Cub 382 on the cover and includes same type of items as the 75 catalog on the web page. Did IH build Cubs in 1980, the red ones? One of the dealers told me the IH implement dealers got red Cubs and the Lawn equipment dealers got yellow and white. Heard this before?

Mike Wheat - 09:38pm May 10, 1998 EST (#259 of 800)
Harry...yes I use the 30 wt Valvoline in the rearends, both in my tractor(Cub 100)that has done the chores for the last 14 years and my son's pulling tractor. I don't know too much about the newer ones, but I'll call a dealer friend and get his input too...Mike

Scott McKenzie - 10:19pm May 10, 1998 EST (#260 of 800)
Harry @ 249, for what it's worth I seemed to remember that there was a Case/IH Dealership in Southington, CT, right up the street. My father has a Case Internation 244 and I think that is where he goes for parts. If you can't find it e-mail me and I'll ask him the name of it and if he's been there lately (mckenzie@notes.nu.com).

Stephen LaRoche - 02:57am May 11, 1998 EST (#261 of 800)
Anton Rothbauer, for original tires for the front I believe I got a set form Danko. I will check tommorrow. They are exactly like the originals. Try a truck/farm tractor tire business and they should be able to order them for you. They will have a book with the tread paterns in it to look at. For the rear tires if you want them to look like the Original for the lawn type that look like snow tires then Carlisle makes these 6x12's.

Dave Holtmart - 06:33am May 11, 1998 EST (#262 of 800)
Harry, At #249 If you haven't found a cub dealer, I use this one Lucas of Cortland here in central N.Y. they are one of the Largest in N.Y. . They carry all of the cub paint and a large line of parts as well. If you want give them a call and ask for Brad or Steve in parts both know their parts. Their phone # is area code 607- 756- 2863 tell them I sent you they know me well. Also as far as hydro oil pennzoil makes a good oil I use it most of the time, for the hydro filter I use fram # ph 2844 if any of you have newer engines with oil filters on them I use fram # ph 3614, you can get them at Wal- mart for les than 3$. Both of these are direct cross over from oem part numbers, and I use them all of the time in my repair business.

Harry Bursell - 07:28am May 11, 1998 EST (#263 of 800)
Dave @262 - thanks for the info on the oil, filters and the dealer. What is your repair business?

Harry Bursell - 12:13am May 12, 1998 EST (#272 of 800)
Mason @271 - it's hard to say where to start. I'm really a novice myself. I've gone completely through a 1/2 dozen and worked on several others. You didn't mention a mowing deck or other accessories. What do you want to do with it. As information, Cub models indicate hp and trans, in your case, the 10 in Model 107 is the 10hp and the 7 as an odd number indicates hydro. The 10hp motor was a Kohler model K241. Your 8hp should be K161 and the 12hp is a K301 assuming these are the all cast iron K series. I think they were really the best (the newer ones have aluminum cases and some cast iron sleves). If your 8hp runs good you could put it in but I don't know how well it would work. I believe the smallest Cub put in hydros was the 10hp. It probably will work OK especially if you have a small mowing deck (36-38in). As for the wiring you mention, my experience on several model 126 and 127 units is that the wiring harnesses may had a quality problem or something else. Most of mine have had internal breaks in one or two of the wires from the dask to the voltage regulator. Probably best to get a new harness, but would guess it at $50. You could make one if you're into that, with some good quality 10gauge wire. I believe the operators manual has the wiring diagram and schematic although it may only be in the service manual. your probably also have a problem with the hood pin connection points to the grill. Hope you are a good mig welder or know some-one. I think the weakest point in all the older Cubs is the steering but it's rebuildable. If you have more than about 1-2" play in the steering wheel it probably needs atleast adjusting. Recommend getting the service manual and follow instructions. Most I've seen have 5-6"play but lots of people don't care. Keeps your hands moving if you're trying to mow in a straight line. Some of the play could also be at the tie rod and drag link joints and the wheel spindles. All you can do is check and probably replace. If your front axle has back and forth play where the pin holds it to the frame you probably have to remove and tighten the frame mount area together. I usually do this with a 5/8" nut and bolt, you actually squeeze it until the axle will just slip in. I also replace the pin. Hope all this doesn't discourage you. Cubs are really great machines, you can always get the parts you need and fix'm, and as you do you really learn and know your machine. It seems most people these days want something cheap that they don't have to do maintenance on, just use it and throw it away in a couple years. As they do, we just keep on using our Cubs, over and over and over. Hope this helps Harry

Stephen LaRoche - 07:29am May 12, 1998 EST (#276 of 800)
Anton, Correction on the front tires, they are DICO turf guide tires 480/8 You should be able to get them.Email me if you need the tel. # for the place I got mine if your dealer is having a hard time finding them. Check with a farm or truck tire business.
Nice talking to you last night Ron Keller. I made the copies this morning for you. Be sending them out soon.

John Simpson - 09:27am May 12, 1998 EST (#278 of 800)
Harry; if you're going to rewire, I suggest you use marine grade wire. Ithas smaller stands, more of them, is more flexible, a better covering, and stands more abuse. Also, solder all connectors, even if you use crimp connectors. That prevents corrosion at the connector/wire joint. -John

Harry Bursell - 11:55am May 12, 1998 EST (#279 of 800)
Mason @273 - mowing deck usually has a model no. tag, which you need for belts, parts, etc. The size of the deck is usually the 1st two no.s If you measure the deck be sure to measure from outside blade edge to outside blade edge. Some people have measured the overall deck width and mistakenly call their deck 50" when it actually is a 42.
John @278 - thanks for the tip on marine wire. Where would you usually find it? I don't recall seeing it at hardware store or Home Depot. Thanks Harry

Harry Bursell - 11:23pm May 12, 1998 EST (#288 of 800)
Joe Cardani @282 - If you don't have the original one to start with I got 4 old units that need re-building. They're from 8 & 12hp motors but I think these AC-Delco units were really all the same. Don't know where you are but expect it could be shipped. Last I checked aroung CT 2 years ago new ones weren't available, just re-built at $3-400 bucks without exchange, or rebuilding yours for $75-150. Also, you didn't mention if you had the mounting bracket. I've got one from an 8hp (model 86)which is probably the same. Reply on the forum or for more details you can e-mail me at IHCubCadet@aol.com

Aaron Gonya - 02:04am May 13, 1998 EST (#290 of 800)
Would a regular AC-Delco generator work? (I work in an auto parts store ) and can get them for a lot less money I think a generator will turn into a motor when current is applied Anyone have any Ideas?

Dave Holtmart - 06:33am May 13, 1998 EST (#292 of 800)
Aaron at # 290, a starter- generator for a car turns a kholer backwards and won't work, been there and tried it ! If you can find a rebuilder near you they could rebuild one for you if you have a core. If you have a core check the rear cover to see if you have the large center or small, the difference is large has a bearing and small has bushing you want the bearing lasts longer, and takes less power to turn it. Dave

Harry Bursell - 11:38pm May 13, 1998 EST (#303 of 800)
Hey guys - thought I saw an earlier message where someone was looking for a snow thrower for a 1650. Guess I'm going to have to print all the forum pages for easier reference and review. Anyway, wish I was close to Cameron, Wisconsin because Kohel Implement, phone 715-234-4240, is advertising a snow thrower off a 1450 for $99. It's also listed at the end of his used equipment list at www.kohelimp.com (but be careful because he's a JD dealer) I looked for 3 years in CT before I found one and I'm still not sure if it is the right one (Its a QA42A). (After I got mine I came across 3 more, seems they come and go) It works great and attaches right but the thrower shute is very close to the tip end of my hood.

David Kirk - 12:08am May 15, 1998 EST (#321 of 800)
Some notes on Delco starter-generators. The early units had ball bearings on both sides of the armature, and external oil cups for lubrication. Later models eliminated the oil cups and used sealed ball bearings. After about 1970, a third version utilized a bronze bushing on the commutator end. An internal oil wick lubricates this bushing, but eventually this dries out and the bearing fails. If caught in time, more oil can be introduced into the wick by removing the end cover and observing the obvious. The best starter-generator is the second version with 2 sealed ball bearings.
Some earlier questions concerned reversing these units, as they were made in CW or CCW rotational versions, depending on the application These units can quite simply be reversed by swapping the brush leads relative to the field poles. Other trivia: A starter-generator is both a series and shunt wound machine, the series current flow path is used for motoring while the shunt path is for generating. The armature windings are heavier than an equivalent 12V Delco automotive generator. Thus the starter-generator is a compromised device - it does neither job very well but is sufficient for our one-lung Kohlers with automatic compression releases. I have had good success rebuilding starter-generators. Brushes and bearings are still available, and if the insulation on the windings appears un-burned, usually resurfacing the commutator and new brushes will restore full performance.
Hope some of this rambling proves helpful.

John Withouse - 08:55am May 15, 1998 EST (#325 of 800)
Gotta throw my 2 cents in on the oil/filters: If you follow the lube specs recommended by the manufacturer, you should be fine. Hy-Tran is an excellent hydraulic fluid. We use it in all our Cub Cadets, partly because we use it in our farm tractors and usually have it on hand in quantity. A Cub Cadet hydro holds 7 quarts, but a Farmall 706 holds 20+ gallons. I don't have much experience with other hydraulic fluids, but if they really meet Hy-Tran B6, they should be fine. Fram filters have always been good filters, and I wouldn't hesitate to use them, but we have better luck finding the right size at our Case/IH and CC dealer, so thats what we usually go with. I prefer Valvoline motor oil (I'm sure their hydraulic oil is good stuff, too.) My dad, who is a retired IH dealer service technician, uses Case/IH Low Ash in his 106 and 129 as well as his tractors. He uses Mobil in his car and pickup. There are several other good oils out there, too. But Pennzoil?!! Eewwww!

Harry Bursell - 02:08pm May 15, 1998 EST (#331 of 800)
Hey guys, just heard Harley Davidson put out message NOT to use SAE SJ oils. It is not designed for air cooled engines. I checked my Valvoline HPO SAE30 and sure enough its SJ. Any more oil comments??

John Simpson - 02:34pm May 15, 1998 EST (#332 of 800)
Harry Bursell: Harley is in the business of selling oil, parts, and service. They've been telling me for years that nothing but Harley oil will work in my Harleys. I've been ignoring them and using pure synthetic 20-50 racing oil, and never had a lubrication or cooling related repair needed.

John Withouse - 02:52pm May 15, 1998 EST (#333 of 800)
Jared@#326, that's the type of rear PTO I was referring to in #309. I think they're few and far between. John S. - I agree, synthetics are great. It would be interesting to know, though, what the real difference is between hydraulic fluids. Hy-Tran and other hydraulic fluids operate regularly under greater stress in bigger machines without problems. My point is: Will the difference have a noticeable effect on reliability, wear, etc. in a Cub Cadet under normal service (pullers, etc. excluded?) I'm guessing not the kind of difference you'd see using synthetic vs. standard oil in severe service applications. I think keeping both engine oil and hydraulic fluid clean and free of moisture is more important than the brand name, but as I mentioned before, I do have my brand loyalties.

John Simpson - 03:25pm May 15, 1998 EST (#334 of 800)
John Withouse (333) You hit the nail on the head on service habits. The differences in oils diminish graetly with more frequent oil and filter changes. But since we do run high temperature engines, the virtues of synthetic oils, i.e. high shear strength, viscosity stability with regard to temperature, and high boil-points (virtually no evaporative losses or sludging), make them more critical for your Cub Cadet than for your car (unless you have a VW or a Porsche)!

David Kirk - 08:11pm May 15, 1998 EST (#337 of 800)
Harry (#322) and John (#323), thank you for your comments. I'm glad info was useful to you.
Wow, what an oil controversy! Here is my experience over the years in working on small, air-cooled engines. Owners that use a name-brand oil, change it regularly, and follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations on viscosity, will get maximum life from their engine. The cast iron K-series Kohler engines used in the older Cubs can actually achieve 2000 hours durability in service, if well cared for. If you really want to give your engine a treat, change the oil every 20 hours instead of the recommended 30 hour interval. Stay away from "special" oils or oil additives - there useless and a waste of money. Kohler recommends straight 30 weight for summer operation as the heavier viscosity reduces oil consumption (past the piston rings) and thus carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. Synthetics are of lighter viscosity but are more thermally stable, and thus may be more viscous at operating temperature. I will call some friends in the engineering division at Kohler and get their opinion on running synthetics, then pass it on to you gentlemen.
Carbon accumulation in the combustion chamber is usually what causes the eventual failure in the high-time Kohler. The deposits accumulate at the upper end of the cylinder bore, between the head and top piston ring travel area. The deposits are so hard that the top piston ring land wears severely or actually breaks off. Naturally, this allows for compression leakage, loss of power, and high oil consumption. Kohler recommends removing the head every 500 hours and decarboning - a definate must! It is also a good idea to check and re-torque head bolts every 100 hours, as well as cleaning chaf out of the cooling fins. Running unleaded gasoline also keeps chamber deposits to a minimum.
I hope someone, someday, writes a beautifully illustrated book on the history of the International Cub Cadet. I'll be the first to buy a copy!

Mike Wheat - 09:41pm May 15, 1998 EST (#339 of 800)
Hey Guys! Question: where is the IH refinery?? or is it made by XXX?? I agree with Dave @337, he has stated it well. The only thing I would like to add is there is a difference in bases. As I understand it, there are parafin based (Penzoil,Valvoline,Kendall) and there are crude oil based (Havoline) oils. I was told it is not a good idea to mix them. The parafin based, if run too long, will actually coat the inside of your motor with wax...saw it myself in a friend's 350 motor. The crude base turns into that terrible black sludge. As far as loyalty...if my $100's of dollars worth of parts are outweighed by a couple of quarts of oil...sorry, I'll still buy Valvoline. I have the choice of probably 6 IH dealers in the area and I am LOYAL to the guys I started with. I don't price shop between them and I don't buy aftermarket parts..right down to the air filter...Mike

David Kirk - 11:42pm May 15, 1998 EST (#341 of 800)
Harry (#340), you can do it - it's a piece of cake! Remove cooling baffle, remove head bolts, and pull head. Scrape piston dome with a soft, plastic or wood scraper. An old plastic windshield ice scraper works great. Also, a wire brush works well for around and over the valves. Scrape the underside of the head in the same manner. I have access to a glass bead blaster, and this works wonders for the head - makes it look like a new casting! Be sure to clean thoroughly after doing this, especially in spark plug threads. The top of the bore is where the carbon ring builds up that damages the piston. This carbon is usually rock hard and I've found that a utility knife (or pocket knife) blade works best here. Roll the piston down to bottom center and scrape the top area of bore carefully to remove the carbon ring. Then blow clean with compressed air.
Now, if you're a real purist, take a sheet of 120 grit emery paper on a flat surface (like a steel plate) and resurface the head (rub it back and forth over the stationary emery paper-apply even pressure). I'm always amazed at how every head is so grossly warped. This technique gives a nice flat surface that keeps the head gasket from blowing. Finish by using 220 grit paper. Clean thoroughly, and your ready for reassembly. If the head gasket looks good, re-use it. Its a metal clad gasket and may be reused if not torched by a previous leak - caused by improperly torqued head bolts. Clean the threads on the head bolts and apply some oil to them - this lowers friction and gives more accuracy to torque values. Clean everything, put on gasket, put on head, insert bolts and torque to values given in the service manual. Be sure to use the correct sequence in torquing the bolts - also shown in manual.
A cylinder hone is used after boring or reconditioning a glazed bore. Hone is not needed for a decarbonization job. Valve clearances always become smaller due to valve seat recession and valve stretch. I check the clearances on my K301 every year - its so easy to do.
I thought I was the only guy in the world that was an IH Cub Cadet fanatic until I discovered this great page. But could one of you Cub experts please tell me when my 1250 was made? The s/n is 555960. Was it '75 or '76 ????? Thanks.

Kenneth Updike - 09:06am May 16, 1998 EST (#344 of 800)
FYI....The Lo-Ash engine oil is made by Viscosity Oil Co of Chicago, IL. This was IH's exclusive oil supplier until the merger/split-up.I believe IH even owned Viscosity Oil at one time. Viscosity's base stocks are crude oil based, not parrafin too.
FYI...The Cub Cadet book is still in the works, I try to get a chapter done every two weeks. There is so much out there on these great machines, where do you stop writing on them???? Should the book mention the Cub Cadets built after the sale to MTD?????
BOB.....I think that your counter is probably spinning like a helicopter blade by now. I hope to add a few RPM's to it myself. Thanks for a great site!!!! Ken

Bob Necker - 11:58am May 17, 1998 EST (#354 of 800)
Oh, it's raining and looks like a good day to be a cyber jockey. As for the inclusion of the MTD units in your upcoming book, Ken, it certainly is a vital part of Cub Cadet history and in my opinion the saddest. IH created the Cub Cadet as an integral part of it's line-up for the new suburban dweller's large lawn and it became an immediate hit with these owners and larger entities such as cemeteries and municipial and state agencies because of their durability, ease of maintainence and and parts availability from an established dealer network. Incidently, this network still exists. If you want parts for your IH Cub Cadet, your best bet is to check your local Case IH dealer. There are many Case IH dealers that are also Cub Cadet dealers so you will get the best of both worlds. Personal experience is that a 'new' Cub Cadet dealer will probably carry some other lawn/garden equipment lines and will not be of much assistance when attempting to get some obscure part for your 1961 Original. Try your Case IH dealer for best results, preferrably one that has been around for awhile.
When MTD purchased the division it became just "one more" albeit separate lawn/garden tractor in their extensive line. As we all know they manufacture nearly 85% of the units sold today in this country.
This forum and it's parent site http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cubcadet.htm was created for the gathering and dissemination of information about International Cub Cadets manufactured by the International Harvester Company. Personally, I don't give "two whoops in Hell" about the units produced by MTD, but do acknowledge the lineage. For Gawd's sake they make machines for K-Mart, Ace Hardware, and even some of the lower-end green and yellow units.
The tractors, and I mean tractors, designed and manufactured by IH are a far cry from the plastic and light sheet metal units being produced today. How many of them do you think will be around 37 years from now? Still at work and doing a great job of mowing and tilling and other workhorse kinds of chores. Besides being such darn nice looking tractors. Real metal and tough running gear to boot. Gel-coat and polyeurethane can never replace cast iron and good honest-to-God sheet metal. Try to get replacement parts for these units in a few years. Does anybody have an oil bath air cleaner bowl and wire retainer for an Original they would like to part with? I need one. Also need an oil pan for 12 HP K-131 Kohler. (Rick, you still around ! ?)
Yikes - I better get off this soapbox before Tom gets after me ! ! Just kidding. After all it is my creation.
Have fun guys. And if you can help me out with those parts. I would appreciate. By the way is anybody interested in proper die cut decals for the Originals or Tee shirts? If enough are, I am working a deal on both. What would you like to see on the shirts? My present thoughts are for a nice graphic of an Original in three colors.
'Nuff said, Bob

Harry Bursell - 02:43pm May 17, 1998 EST (#355 of 800)
Bob @354 - love to have a T-shirt, suggest it also have a really biiiiiig IH emblem. What about ball caps too? Had a red hat with black/white IH emblem a few years ago. Gave it to a friend with a IH Farmall 350. Never seen Cub Cadet hat. As for the MTD comment, I was wondering myself and didn't realize they made 85% of all. Also interesting to note that based on the serial no.s on the forum parent site it appears IH made about 643,000 in just under 20 years. Note from Ken earlier mentioned the one millionth Cub would be built this year. Looks like MTD hasn't been able to build as many as IH in about the same amount of time. Based on the new MTD 2000 and 3000 I think their sales will probably decline further (don't know year to year no.s). The new ones just don't look like tractors. Hope they keep it going, we need the parts. Harry

David Kirk - 07:07pm May 17, 1998 EST (#359 of 800)
It was a beautiful day today in Wisconsin, made even nicer in that I got to spend 3 hours cutting grass on my 1250 Cub. The whine of the hydrostatic, the regular beat of the Kohler, the aroma of fresh cut grass mixed with the occasional whiff of exhaust fumes...man, what a delightful experience!
Bob Necker(#354), the artwork you propose for the tee shirt sounds perfect to me. Three colors would look great. You may be interested to know that a nice IH logo-decal is still available, part no. 27771R1. This is the decal that goes in the rear fender location, centered below the seat. Friends tell me that IH did make a Cub Cadet hat in the mid '60's. It would be nice to offer reissues of these too, if possible.
Harry (#355) and others, there are very nice hats available with IH INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER embroidered patches sewn on. They cost $7.00 and are available in several styles and colors. They are obtainable from: HOOVER PROMOTIONS R.R. 2, Box 286 Winamac, IN 46996 219-278-7277 Nice people to do business with and you'll be pleased with their products.

David Kirk - 07:29pm May 18, 1998 EST (#379 of 800)
I called a friend at Kohler Co., Engine Division, to get info on approved engine oils (namely synthetics) that can be used in K-series iron block engines. Kohler has done testing with Mobil-1 oil and has actually seen reduced oil consumption (in some cases) when compared to straight 30 weight mineral oil. There is evidence that less carbon deposits form in the combustion chamber area when using synthetic oil, a definite benefit. The data is inconclusive as to extended life of the engine when using synthetics. High-time engines may weep oil around the crankshaft seals or gasketed joints, and this should be checked out if switching to synthetics.
I also learned that typical oil temps for K-series engines running full load on a hot day are around 250-275 deg F, where the new all-aluminum engines can see 300+ deg F. This was surprising, as I always thought the iron block would be the hottest. Thus, synthetic oil would benefit the aluminum engine more due to it's stability at high temps.
The conclusion - synthetic oil will not be harmful to the cast iron Kohler, and is probably a superior lubricant for this engine over straight 30 wt mineral oil. I would personally keep the change interval at 30 hours max.

David Kirk - 12:39am May 20, 1998 EST (#397 of 800)
Harry (#384), thanks for the support. I also use a conventional 30 wt. name brand oil in my K301 and change at 20 - 25 hour intervals. As to your question on old scrap blocks lying around: unfortunately for us, Kohler melts down all it's scrap iron blocks and thus none are to be had. Probably make bathtubs out of them. As to your K321 using 1oz oil every 2 hours, this is perfectly normal, and quite good for an engine with that high time.
When my engine was "freshened up" a couple of years ago (new std.piston, rings, con rod, and cylinder honed) it continued to use oil just about at the same rate as before the rebuild. Nothing serious, no blue smoke in the exhaust, but oil level noticeably down after about 5 hours running. After much searching, probing, and contemplating, I finally found the culprit...it was the DIP STICK! It seems that my original part, thru years of vibration, had wallowed out the o-ring sealing disc that the stick passes thru, allowing a large air leak into the crankcase. This was confirmed when I stuck my finger down in the dip stick tube and pulled out black oily swill that was being deposited there. A single cylinder 4-stroke has check valves in the crankcase (usually in the valve spring cavity) such that air is allowed to exit the case on the piston down stroke, and a vacuum is formed on the up stroke. This "breather" system thus maintains an average, partial vacuum in the crankcase which greatly assists in keeping oil from migrating past the piston rings and ultimately into the combustion chamber. My leaky stick allowed no vacuum to be established and thus oil was lost past rings. A new replacement dip stick solved the problem and now the engine uses hardly any oil between changes. The new part had been improved with a large rubber grommet replacing the original metallic disc and o-ring.
Moral of story - Leaking seals, gaskets, and even dip sticks can cause the Kohler engine to use oil. Check these things out before you rebuild - could save you time and money.

Kenneth Updike - 06:52pm May 21, 1998 EST (#409 of 800)
Harry....#407...The truck "glider" kit is made of the truck frame, front axle and cab. The engine, trans and rear ends are all to be use from a "donor" truck (usally wrecked). See www.NAVISTAR.com or www.KENWORTH.com for more info. The 1100 I list has everything except the engine in it.(had one of those Chief Wahoo engines in it...NOT original!!!!) It's a good Cub Cadet repower unit or its restorable, but its NOT a good puller unit. It has the cheap Peerless style rearend in it.(like a 76 Cadet) The 1100 looks like the 1250-1650's. But it did not have the side engine enclosure panels like the other models of the "Quiet Line" did....FYI.....Those side engine panels are NLA and can very valuable!!!!!!
The Super Garden tractor series actually was started by IH with the Red 982 Cub Cadet. These were like Garden tractors on steroids,just plain bulkier, and heavier made. Not much has changed in its design until lately, when it too was MTD'd. The 982's were OK, except for the ONAN engine, we had trouble with them.

David Kirk - 08:39pm May 21, 1998 EST (#410 of 800)
Harry (#384), here is what I personally use as a guide in judging whether a Kohler engine is in need of a rebuild: does it blow blue smoke from the exhaust or breather, does it knock or rattle, does it use excessive amounts of oil, is there metal particles in the oil, and finally does it have a serious lack of power. You've already stated that oil consumption is nill, and if the other awful things I just mentioned aren't happening, then your engine is probably fine.
Dave Holtmart made an excellent suggestion about checking compression pressure before pulling the head. This is not easy to do on the Kohler however, as the engine has ACR (automatic compression release) which gives false (low) readings when testing with a conventional compression gauge. Kohler states in the manual to rotate the engine backwards rapidly to obtain correct compression pressure readings, but I've never been able to figure out how to do this easily. What I use is a DIFFERENTIAL COMPRESSION GAUGE. With this instrument the engine does not need to be rotated. It is a static measurement to see how much pressurized air leaks past rings and valves. There is not enough space here and I'm too poor a writer to explain how this gauge works and how to use it, but I'm sure that a mechanic friend would have one and would help you. Be sure the head bolts are torqued properly before making this test, otherwise you'll get false readings due to head gasket leakage.
Incidently, Kohler furnishes .010 undersize "service" connecting rods for these engines, and it is therefore permitted to regrind crankpin to .010 undersize. Hope this proves helpful.

John Withouse - 04:48pm May 26, 1998 EST (#459 of 800)
Well, I haven't had any bites on the '62 original I offered for sale or trade in #406. Guess that means you all think I should keep it and restore it. Maybe you're right, but I'm still keeping an open mind

John Withouse - 08:55am May 27, 1998 EST (#466 of 800)
John S. at #460, I bought my '62 without an engine. The "originals" were all built with 7hp K141 Kohler engines, so it sounds like yours has the right engine. As far as the tractors, they didn't really carry a model number. I suppose that's because there was only one model. All the hood decals said was "International Cub Cadet". They started using model numbers with the 7hp model 70 and 10hp model 100 in 1963. Bob's web page has some excellent pictures of originals, 70's, and 100's. You mentioned earlier that yours had a 42" deck with cast ends - that may be a slightly newer deck than the tractor. My '62 has the 38" 2 spindle deck with Gilmer belt for spindle timing (no offset.) This was the first deck offered with the originals. The type you describe was sold with 70's, 100's, etc., but may have been available earlier. Does anyone out there know if the "cast end" decks were offered with the originals?

john a smith - 02:13am May 29, 1998 EST (#493 of 891)
hello everybody .Im new to this site but i really enjoy it ! I sell new old stock parts for gas engines including Clinton ,Kohler,Tecumseh,Onan,Lauson,Reo,Briggs,Wisconsin,i also sell motors used complete and will part out also dont have any big kohler motors right now but i do have a couple of twin cyl. kohlers that ill part out if anyone needs parts .I also have a friend here in my same town that collects Cubs hes got over 25 of them hes made them into mac trucks road graders double framed them so there twice as long hes put twin rear axles under them ,hes got alot of neat stuff .he wont ship anything as far as attacthments but hell some stuff let me know what your looking for and ill ask him if hes got an extra to sell . otherwise i do come into some stuff quite often like right now I have a Brinley garden plow and maybe a Disc for sale about 50$ a piece and i now of a good snowblade for 125$ for a late seventies tractor .i collect two tractors and threir implements and i sell them too whenever i run out of room.let me know if you need anything like carbs for Kohler motors i know i have some good Carter carbs for the smaller motors 6 to 8 hp. and a few bigger carbs as well I also have some new carb lower ends for guys whose are dented or rusted through . This is just my hobby so im reasonable price wise .talk to you later John Smith jksmith@dave-world.net

anton rothbauer - 05:38am May 29, 1998 EST (#494 of 891)

John Withouse - 12:00pm May 28, 1998 EST (#482 of 800)
John S., the headlights for a 100 are mounted in the upper grill opening. The picture on Bob's web page shows one with headlights (click on the blue hypertext link that says "Cub Cadet 100" just under the heading "Serial Numbers and Letters".) These pictures look like they're from original IH literature, so they should be about as accurate as you can get. On the subject of swapping engines (16 in front of a manual trans), I would think it should be OK. The pullers modify their clutches, but they're typically running much more than the stock 16hp. Another good indication is the fact that IH did build such a combination, the 582 (not the 582 Special.) It had the familiar 3 speed "Cub" trans and rear end behind a 16hp B&S twin cylinder. I don't think it had any special clutch pieces. I know my 782 (17hp twin Kohler w/hydro) has the same type of drive components as the older, lower hp hydros. What do the rest of you guys think?

Jesse Luebke - 10:15am May 31, 1998 EST (#514 of 800)
Hello again. Regarding David Kirk's post @321 on cw/ccw starter/generator rotation, I need help with what to change. I had mine rebuilt yesterday and it is now running in reverse. I took the end cap off of it and another one that I have, and I can't see any difference in the way they are hooked up. All of the wire leads and brushes look the same to me. The generator side was bad and they replaced the fields on the one I had rebuilt. Thanks.

David Kirk - 08:48pm May 31, 1998 EST (#517 of 800)
Harry (#509), I'm not sure if 1250 - 1650 drive shaft would retrofit into 149. After modifying the 149 shaft, I should have compared the two, but didn't. Sorry, I can't help here. Jesse (#514), I would suggest you take your starter/generator back to the rebuilder and have them fix it. If you are unable to do this, try unbolting the fields from the housing (the big Phillips head screws on outside) and swapping locations of the fields. Leave the wires attached to the appropriate brushes, don't change these. The leads should be long enough to allow swapping the field locations without taking them off the brush holders. If not, you may have to solder on extensions, but I don't think so. By the way, if everything is set up correctly, the armature rotates with the brushes "trailing" on the commutator (leaning in the direction of rotation). If they are "leading", then something is really wrong and the brushes will quickly wear out. I think the safe bet would be to let the shop fix their mistake, which they should do for free. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

Bob Necker - 09:06pm May 31, 1998 EST (#518 of 800)
Jesse: Take that starter/generator back and get your money back. Then take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

Dave Holtmart - 06:58am Jun 1, 1998 EST (#520 of 800)
Mason, NO a standard 12volt battery is all you need I like interstate heavy duty 355 amp. battery, they really spin a kohler over so they start quickly. Jesse take it back the rebuilder has put the wrong fields in it . Dave

John Withouse - 09:26am Jun 4, 1998 EST (#549 of 800)
Mike @ 540 and Brian @ 545: The 106's were built with 10hp Kohler K241 engines. The "10" in 106 stands for 10hp, and the "6" is a series number. The even numbers were manual trans models, and odds were hydrostatics. A 107 would be the same tractor, but with a hydrostatic transmission. Engines that would bolt in with no modifications include 8, 10, and 12hp K-series Kohlers. 14 and 16hp Kohlers will also bolt in, but the tractor frame has to be modified to allow the flywheel shroud to fit between the frame rails. Mike, you are correct in assuming the pedal is a combination clutch/brake. The first half of the pedal travel should disengage the clutch, the second half should apply the brakes. The K-series Kohlers have automatic compression releases to make them easier to start, that may be why it seems to have little compression. A complete replacement wiring harness is still available from CC (for about $60.) Price can depend on location, but around here (central Missouri), $350 - $400 sounds like the top bid (assuming the engine is OK.) $100 or less would be a steal, regardless of engine.

Robert Mull - 08:26pm Jun 6, 1998 EST (#566 of 890)
I need sugesstions on removing steering wheel on a model 105. thanks,robert mull

Mike Neuharth - 12:35am Jun 7, 1998 EST (#567 of 890)
Cub Cadet Fans Town and Country Tractor In Monroe Wa. Knows Old Cub's 360-794-5426 They Ship.

Tom Hoffman - 09:57am Jun 7, 1998 EST (#568 of 890)
Robert at #366, use the three jaw puller that the manual calls for!! You would think that it would come off easy from the size of the steering wheel, but don't let that fool you. If you bugger up the threads on the steering shaft you got big problems! LATER TOM
Hey Bob, Will you be able to post some photos of your trip on this page? (at least the PG rated ones)

Brian Severns - 12:42am Jun 8, 1998 EST (#569 of 890)
Robert @ 566, use lots of good penetrating oil on the wheel/shaft, let it soak overnight. This sometimes does the trick. I had one so stubborn that we ended up puting the nut back on to protect the threads, placed a small piece of round stock over the end of the shaft & nut, then while someone pulled up on the wheel, we used an air chisel to drive on the end of the round stock. After a few bursts with the chisel it popped right off. Does anyone have a nice plastic wheel for a cub 102 or 122, mine is severly weathered and cracked, case dealer got me a replacement wheel but it's deep dished, not flat like the original. Any suggestions on where to get a replacement? Got another cub today, that makes an even number of ten. Just hve to keep them all separated so the wife can't count them up.:-)
Seeya Brian

Dave Holtmart - 06:27am Jun 8, 1998 EST (#570 of 890)
Robert Mull, Here is another way for you if you don't have a 3 jaw puller. Go to your local hardware store and buy 5/8 fine thread bolt about 3 to 4 inches long with a nut, remove steering wheel nut and place new nut on covering about half of the threads on steering shaft, screw the bolt down inside the nut so it's tight, sit on the tractor seat with a hammer, place your knees under the outer part of the wheel and push up against the wheel and hit the head of the bolt squarely, may take a few blows to get the wheel to move. Don't place the new nut tight against the wheel leave a little room (afew threads 2to3 ). This is how i remove steering wheels as i don't have 3 jaw puller that will work, have removed several this way even old rusty ones. Dave

Bob Necker - 10:16pm Jun 8, 1998 EST (#572 of 800)
Dave Peterson you may get a box blade from Northern Hydraulics. They have one for Category 0 and 1 applications. They also have several attachments for the sleeve hitch adaptations. So does Sears. They are a bit lighter but will work.
By the way Connecticut Yankee Tractor of Waterford, CT has some nice Tee shirts for $13. postpaid. One has a nice silkscreen Original in yellow, black and white on a greyish shirt. Phone them at 1-860-442-5182. Stephan has one of them on at http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cub4sale.htm Tell him you saw it here.
Hope to see you all back here now that we're up and running again ! !

Anton Rothbauer - 08:56pm Jun 15, 1998 EST (#605 of 800)
Anyone know if decals are available for 38in 2 and 3 blade decks and placing of them on decks? Thanks, anton@otherside.com Indiana

Gary Marshall - 09:43pm Jun 15, 1998 EST (#606 of 800)
I have a Cub Cadet Mod # 1810 that has developed an oil leak between the hydrostatic unit and the gearbox. Installed a new gasket along with Permatex yellow gasket adhesive. Now it leaks worse than ever. The local dealer is no help. Would be interested if any other owners have experienced the same problem and what they did to fix it. Thanks

Rick Goodman - 08:06am Jun 16, 1998 EST (#609 of 800)
Hi guys, remember me?
Gary , about your gasket problem, either the gasket got torn or moved during reassembly.The only gasket sealer we use on these is Permatex Hi-Tack on the side of the gasket without the self stick adhesive. Make sure all surfaces are CLEAN. Then put the self-sticking side of the gasket on the hydro.Then Hi-Tack both the gasket and the transmission surface and carefully set the hydro into place without moving the gasket. Tighten the bolts and you should have a good seal. Some sealants don't work real well with cork gaskets and I'll bet that was your problem. Let me know how it works out.
Finally got a little(and I do mean little)work started on the original and Spirit of 76.Took them both to a show a couple weeks ago as works in progress.Hey, It's a start!!
Later, Rick

Kenneth Updike - 07:18pm Jun 16, 1998 EST (#613 of 800)
MIKE....#612.....IH never made "high lift" blades for a 44" deck. If you make some, make sure that the blades are balanced, or you'll be buying alot of ST-745 bearings soon. I have a 44" on my 782 and it cuts great!! One trick I use is to paint the mower deck housing with graphite paint each year. This acts as a teflon coating so grass won't gum up and stick on the housing. We sell the bagging style (high lift) blades here (at C&G) for other sized CC mower decks, and I personally could not stand to operate any brand mower with these on. They ALL howl like a jet when you run them.
Another item you may wish to check is to see if the deck is level from front to back. If the front is tipped down too much any tall grass will be just pushed over and the blades won't reach it. Also, CC offers a weld on replacement front guage wheel set, to be used when the guage "skid" rings have worn down. These weld on where the "skid" rings were welded on. They do make a great difference in the quality of cut too. Finally check the rear baffle on the deck (looks like a long W) to see if its worn out or even there. This is an important piece on the deck too.

John Warrick - 02:42pm Jun 27, 1998 EST (#692 of 800)
Jerry @687 Two years ago I found Haban Manufacturing Co. in Racine, Wis. at (414)637-8388. I was looking for a sickle bar mower for a Bolens Husky 1050 garden tractor. The folks at Haban said they no longer make the mowers for garden tractors. I did find a shop who takes in Haban Sickle Bars from time to time which may fit you Cub Cadet. Try Ray's Mower Shop in Boyertown, Pa. at (610) 367-2078.

Deward Mitchell - 12:36am Jun 28, 1998 EST (#694 of 800) from Brigham City, Utah
I'm not sure if it was here or else where that someone was asking about a gang mower. There is one in the Northern catalog, their address is www.northern-online.com

Harry Bursell - 10:59am Jun 29, 1998 EST (#702 of 800)
Thomas @696 - Dave Holtmart is taking you in the right direction. One thing I'd suggest before you buy the gov. spring. The spring is usually connected in the second or third hole from the bottom on the throttle cable linkage connector. (I'm not sure which hole it connects to on the gov. arm itself - look for the worn hole) When the throttle cable is moved to idle setting the gov. spring should be completely relaxed and allow the gov. arm to move the throttle on the carb to closed position. Make sure the spring goes to relaxed position when the throttle cable is moved to idle. The spring should almost want to fall out of the connecting holes.
I've had problems here before. The spring connector at the end of the throttle cable must move freely with the throttle cable. It should have a small spring washer with a reduced shoulder bushing on the bolt holding it to the block. These parts allow the spring connector to move freely with the throttle cable. When the motor is NOT running and you push the throttle cable control from idle to high speed the spring should almost immediately show some tension and begin to move the gov. arm which in turn begins to open the throttle on the carb. This hole thing is quite tricky and very sensitive. Still with motor NOT running, when you are at full throttle the spring should show tension and pull throttle full open. I had a problem similar to what you describe when I put one back together after painting. If this solves your problem then your next step could be to set sensitivity of the gov. as identified in manual. Hope this helps. Harry

Kenneth Updike - 08:08pm Jun 29, 1998 EST (#709 of 800)
Harry...#708...The 82 series were the RED Cub Cadets(also the last series built by IH), and are excellent looking and running tractors. Some have the twin cylinder KOHLERS in them.

Joe Scott - 09:33am Jul 1, 1998 EST (#720 of 800)
I would love a back blade for my original. Does anyone have one for sale? Are there any plans out there for such an animal? Does anyone know anything about the cooling fins on the base of my K-161?

Bob Necker - 09:55am Jul 1, 1998 EST (#721 of 800)
Joe Scott: Check Northern Hydraulics for Category 0 and sleeve hitch implements to fit your Original. Sears also sells sleeve hitch blades and other attachments. You will need a three point hitch or a sleeve hitch adapter. There are ppl on this forum that have both kinds of hitches. Possibly you could get the schematic and build one. They are fairly simple and straighforward to fabricate if you have the drawings.

Joe Scott - 12:38pm Jul 1, 1998 EST (#722 of 800)
Thanks Bob. My cousin has a metal shop so I think we could build something. Does Northern have a web site? Does anybody know where I could get the drawing Bob was refering too? How long did IH build the original design Cub?

Bob Necker - 05:46pm Jul 1, 1998 EST (#723 of 800)
Joe Scott: You may see one of these sleeve hitch attachments at http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cubbrinl.jpg This particular one was manufactured by the Brinly Company and some were distributed through the Sears Roebuck Company in the 1960's. Maybe you can get a good enough idea from the pic to make one. Actually quite simple design . If you have questions about it e-mail me for more details.

bob mccammon - 11:35am Jul 3, 1998 EST (#726 of 800)
if you have HOME DEPOT STORES in you area they have the BRINLEY-HARDY IMPLEMENTS for CADETS

Bruce Slykhouse - 09:35pm Jul 4, 1998 EST (#732 of 800)
I attended the IH Collector's meet in Ohio today and picked up some sales literature for Cadet accessories. There have been several messages about these companies. Heres the address's on the brochures.
Brinly-Hardy Company
340 East Main St.
Louisville, Ky 40202
502-585-3351
Mars Industries Inc
5209 W. Broadway
Minneapoilis, MN 55429
612-537-8408

Tom Hoffman - 08:22am Jul 5, 1998 EST (#733 of 800)
FOR SALE; (Thinning out the doubles!) 1965 100 with fenders, 3pt. hitch, creeper gear, 8.50 rears, headlights and 38" deck. Good paint $1250. 1964 100 with 38" deck. Original condition $700. 1961 Original restored with many new parts and new tires $1500. LATER TOM

Bob Necker - 11:51pm Jul 7, 1998 EST (#766 of 800)
Joe Scott:
There isn't much hidden in the Cub Cadet site but one thing that doesn't have a link to, but you may be interested in, is the three point hitch spring assist assembly for an Original Cub Cadet. Someone wanted to see what it looked like at one time and I posted some photos and a crude drawing that I did to help them out. If you, or anyone else is interested in it you may view it at http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cuboom.htm If you have questions e-mail me and I'll try to answer. And to anyone that doesn't know, the correct hood decals for Originals are now ready for shipping. Details and an example may be seen at http://www.cybernet1.com/oldiron/cubpaint.htm Bob

Kenneth Updike - 09:17am Jul 13, 1998 EST (#818 of 823)
Bob....#814....Glad that you have confessed your sin, we wouldn't want to have to exile you to the "other colored" L&G forum on Voyager. For your pennance, you'll have 3 choices. 1.Repaint the Brand X machine Cub Cadet Yellow and White. 2.Buy me one of those rare Red & White painted Brand X L&G tractors. 3. Repeat 100 times "Hydros are superior to gear drives".
Harry...#816....At the Red Power Roundup held in Madison, SD last year someone had built a Cub Cadet Crawler and called it the model "00". I snapped a photo of it. It was a crawler sold by Northern Hyraulics???? that had the grille and hood from a Cub Cadet 100 added. A very, very, nice machine. Not a "cobble job" at all. It had a V-twin Briggs engine and even remote hydraulics.
*******Everyone intersted in seeing a Book printed on Cubs and Cub Cadets should contact Motorbooks International of Osceola, Wi. and tell them that you want one. (1-800-826-6600) This is the only way a book on these tractors will happen. If you don't tell them this is the book you want to buy, Motorbooks doesn't know what to print. I have tried to pitch this book, but was shot down and are doing a different book now on Modern IH tractors.

Harry Bursell - 07:15am Jul 13, 1998 EST (#816 of 823)
Bob and others - I really don't know how e-mail and other postings work but I just received mail from a guy named Randy who's Father has tracks on his Cub Cadet. He was wondering if I had any info. Well I don't and have never heard of them but they sure did sound interesting. I gave him the IH Cub page site address and told him of the Forum. Suggested many people would be interested and there were many experts I'm sure could help him. He then sent me a .jpg picture. If he doesn't make the site Bob I'll try to e-mail you the photo to post it. Wish I could find one of these. May not be as easy as puttin on chains but hey, looks like you could go anywhere.
Bob - on those rubber boots for the ball joints, they were also used on the linkage joints under the console on the Hydros. I wondered about these myself. I hadn't seen them used any place else. Harry

Steve Kennedy - 08:25am Jul 13, 1998 EST (#817 of 823)
Greetings from NC! I have been reading the forum with great interest since I have been using MTD Cubs for mowing for two years and just purchased a 1965 CC 100 with 10 hp Kohler and 3 point hitch and 42" deck with cast ends. The tractor is in great shape with just some minor work needed on details (I would be interested in air filter and engine decals). Does anyone know if seat cushions are available? I have a fair amount of work to do on the deck - are the parts still available to restore the IHC decks? My compliments to the contributors to this forum - I find the technical quality very good and the humor on the debates great! I look forward to sharing info with you.

Harry Bursell - 10:47am Jul 13, 1998 EST (#819 of 823)
Ken @818 - from the photo of the Tracker or Crawler, it's clearly an IH Cub Cadet. Based on the grill and original seat I'd make it to be a 124 with tracks and adapter added. Tracks appear to go over original tires with additional rollers or tires added and some type of tensioning device. Can't tell what Kohler is on it and hadn't seen Chrome Air Cleaner before. I'll send the photo to Bob this evening if I can figure out how over e-mail. (It's pretty hi-tech for me, seems to be one level over Hydros). Harry

Joe Scott - 12:59pm Jul 13, 1998 EST (#820 of 823)
Hi guys what beautiful weather were having here in Nortwest Michigan. Grow grass grow. Well I finally picked up that Original I posted about a while back. I took the parts that I needed to restore mine & have a bunch left over. I am willing to sell/swap the rest of these parts. Here is a partial list of main parts: Front grille casting,hood, original k-161s yes it runs & the governor works(I think it was Ted who inquired about the motor), original headlamps, fron frame, complete rear end,all kinds of goodies. E-mail me or post here for more details. Lets deal. Bob or whoever is in charge of decals, I need a complete set, hood, gas tank, aircleaner, the whole kit & kaboodle need something for your Originals, I hope, 'cause I'm sure by the time I get all of those deacals, we be talkin' some cash!! Happy mowing P>S> I know of a 127 ,I believe, that may be up for sale if anyone is interested, no idea of condition, year etc...

Kenneth Updike - 10:38am Jul 14, 1998 EST (#832 of 839)
Mike...#829....IH used AUTO-LITE (1940's-1950's) and later PRESTOLITE (1960's to mid 1970's including early Cub Cadets) brand batteries in thier Ag tractors and trucks. Around 1975 IH switched to EXIDE brand batteries. EXIDE is still the OEM batery source for IH. We at C&G don't sell EXIDE due to many problems we have had with them (poor service, many warranty problems). The totally sealed maintenence free EXIDE batteries IH had used in the 86 and 88 series AG tractors lasted on average, over 10 years, but these are no longer made. We now sell the DAY STARTER brand of batteries. I like the DAY STARTER because they offer a 3 year 100% coverage warranty (No monthly PRO-RATION here!!!!). NO OTHER battery MFG offers this length of warrranty!!!

Harry Bursell - 06:45pm Jul 14, 1998 EST (#838 of 839)
Bob - thanks for posting the photos of the Cub Tracker. They are Randy's at 831. He's hoping to get some information on the unit if anyone has any ideas where it came from, was it original, aftermarket, etc. (Ken, it's not a 100 make-over, got any other historical data about this?) One question I put to Randy - the before appears to be a Hydro with steering wheel (probably not used) and steel tray seat. The after looses the steering wheel and hydro control on the console and appears to have gear shift just forward of the fiberglass seat. Thought these photos might actually be 2 different units.
Well, whats everyone think. I don't know if anyone south of the Mason/Dixon would have much use. Randy is in upstate NY close to the border someplace and surely has use in the snow. (Hey, if the before picture is a Hydro, would it go faster on the snow??) Harry

Randy Coty - 07:49pm Jul 14, 1998 EST (#839 of 839)
Hi Harry.
well to help you out with the confusion. we took the tracks off a hydro and put it on a standard shift unit.. it made it much easier to operate. We would still like to find a Hi/Lo Range gear box for it.. if anyone knows who might have one for sale.. and as far as the steering wheel guys. your right it's not used. because part of the rails for the boogie wheels for the track actually goes over the front spindles.. and i live near Plattsburgh NY if anyone was interested.. well hope to find out more soon.. working on it :) Randy

Randy Coty - 12:54am Jul 15, 1998 EST (#841 of 848)
Hi Harry, well as far as the Axel goes. it's in the original location.. i have some better pictures of the machine with out the tracks in place but with all the other running gear. i will send them over to you.. might help satisfy your curiousity a bit, and as for the seat.. what it really needs is just the cover.. and for the models.. we have both machines still. so i have to go and take a look. and maybe come up with some Serial numbers for them both... but i do know one was a 125 from the decals on the hood.. and for the chrome Air breather.,. well that was my addition.. i did it at work. along with Powdercoating the rest of the components .. included in the track kit. you know got to help out dad once and a while :) Well hope to hear more from you guys.. i am making some really nice friends with this.. maybe i need to dig out one of the cadets and start restoring it for myself huh? and yes that one does have the 12hp Kohler engine. well i will send you some more pictures of it harry.. and hope to hear from you guys again soon. bye Randy

David Gallagher - 07:38pm Jul 15, 1998 EST (#849 of 857)
Has anyone discovered a method of preventing grass from sticking to the underside of the mower deck on my 129? I have tried paint, WD40, and nothing seems to work.

Mason Ridlen - 10:26pm Jul 15, 1998 EST (#850 of 857)
David @ 849 You might try a product called POR 15. It results in a hard, slick surface & is used for rustproofing & metal coating in the automotive world. Comes in black, white, silver & clear. Might be other colors by now. It's potent & will have to wear off your skin if you get some on you, but it is great for coating metal. It can be painted over if you want the Cub Yellow or White to keep the original appearance. Painting might not stop grass from sticking, however. Mason

Harry Bursell - 01:32pm Jul 16, 1998 EST (#854 of 857)
Hey guys - you probably think I sit around all day (and half the night) waiting for something to pop up on here. Well I don't, I really just check it periodically at my work since I use a PC most of the day.
Well here's one for anybody with 1978 and newer units. The front axle U shapped channel (welded to frame where the axle mounts) on my 1450 (circa 1978) has 2 concave type protrusions about 1" from the outside edges of the rear side of the channel. I can't see any reason for these and can't understand what assistance they may provide. They don't appear to be "dents" from the axle as the axle is flat or straight across at this point. Also, my other 1450 (circa 1976) doesn't have these, my 149 doesn't either. I've also looked at many other earlier units and they don't have these. My concern is 1 of these protrusions now has a split. I'll probably weld it when I go over the complete tractor and true the channel for the axle. I could pound the protusions flat again but they just don't look like they should be. Would anyone with 1978 and newer units please check to see if their U channel is flat across the rear side or has these protrusions? Or if anyone knows a cause or problem that occurs to cause these, would you please let me know? Thanks to all the contributors.
Brad @853 - I need to change 1 of these seals on my 1450. In checking the service manual it does indicate you can replace the seal by removing the "C" clip under the inspection cover and sliding out the axle, then removing the seal. If you need to replace the needle bearings or something more, you'll have to go farther into it. Since I haven't actually done this I hope someone else can verify the ease or difficulty in doing this. Thanks Harry

Brad Byers - 04:00pm Jul 16, 1998 EST (#855 of 857)
Harry @ 854: Thanks for the response. I'm going to wrench on it this weekend. I just needed to get my courage up. I wish I could help you on your 1450 situation, but I can't figure it out. My 122 started steering funny, and I discovered that the axle pivot in the center of the front axle casting had worked its way rearward (toward the engine) far enough that the front axle wasn't secured. I drifted the pivot pin back in place, but I still don't know what is supposed to hold it in position. It looks like it can eventually work itself loose again, so I'll keep an eye on it.
As always, if anyone has advice, I'm ready to listen. Thanks, Brad

Kenneth Updike - 04:55pm Jul 16, 1998 EST (#856 of 857)
Harry...#854...The U shaped holes on the later "Quiet Line" Cub Cadets were added, I believe, to allow you to access the front 2 engine oil pan bolts. Don't pound them flat or cut them out. These holes don't cause problems. Brad....#853...Don't forget to change the hydraulic oil in the trans when you replace the seal.

Harry Bursell - 06:40pm Jul 16, 1998 EST (#857 of 857)
Ken @856 - thanks, I'll take a look. I thought there must be a reason for them. They just didn't look like dents from something.
Brad @855 - hope you have enough courage now. I often need this type of little push. Let me know how you make out on the seal. As Ken suggested, you should change the fluid, since it will be mostly drained anyway, and by the book should be changed each year. On your front axle rocker pin, it's held in place at the front with a roll pin, look at the front raised shoulder where the pin is inserted. Harry

Kenneth Updike - 10:10am Jul 17, 1998 EST (#862 of 867)
Mike...#859...The 80 CADET lawn tractor you have is the replacement for the model 76. The 80 CADET was built in 1977 & 1978. These were IH's answer to the low end featured and priced tractors being sold by the discount competition. The CADET lawn tractor line was scheduled to be released by IH in 1967, but IH ran out of engineering manpower to produce a quality product on time, so...the CADET line was released in 1970 with the model 76. A really neat variation of this series are the SPIRIT of 76 CADET lawn tractor painted with RED-WHITE-BLUE colors, along with fancy striping and stars!!!! These are VERY collectible!!!!!!!
Harry...#860...The editor at MOTORBOOKS I'm dealing with is LEE KLANCHER. I've decided to do a book on IH tractors right now for them, and still keep looking for more CUB CADET info.(Like Mulder & Scully say; "the truth is out there") The folks at MOTORBOOKS told me that there is no interest in a book on CUB CADET Lawn & Garden tractors. What a bunch of #$*#!! Hey EVERYONE on this forum get busy and tell them this is what you want to buy...A book on the CUB/CUB CADET Line. Also, if anyone has some extra CUB CADET sales literature, or CUB CADET???? Let me know. I'm always looking. Run the BEST....Use a CUB CADET...and junk the rest!!!!!

Harry Bursell - 12:34pm Jul 17, 1998 EST (#863 of 867)
Brad @855 and Lance @861 - something sounds amiss with your units Lance. I'm not a shop guy but have changed the rocker pin on 122, 126, and 1450 units. These units have an axle U channel with 2 of what I would call thick washers welded on the outside center for the rocker pin to slide thru, and thru the axle. The early service manuals note these are a replaceable item. The welded thick washer on the front of all my tractors has a hole for a spring roll pin, approx. 1/8 or 3/16", to hold the axle pin from sliding or rotating. There is no pin hole in the rear thick washer. If I recall correctly the front roll pin hole has always been angled at approximately 45degrees from parrallel with the axle, which allows the pin to be driven out from the bottom and not interfere with the motor, or could be driven from the top if grill is removed. Lance, if the rear washer item on yours has a pin hole I would guess someone has replaced it with a hole version or non-original. Also, if you use a double roll spring pin (available from Cub) they tend to be near impossible to remove and generally won't fall out like cotter pins, or break or jam like a single roll pin. I also believe the front thick washer is about twice the thickness of the rear one. The rear would hardly have room for a roll pin and I'd be very hesistant to be pounding a punch around the aluminum or cast oil pan, which is very close to the rear thick washer on my 1450. I would also be hesistant to weld the rocker pin or a cover over it. I believe the rocker pin is a slightly softer steel to take the wear. I've never miked one but usually replace it at removal. The new one always fits tighter and I try to tighten the axle channel should it have opened slightly from true. I will take a look at these on my 149 tonite and let you know if anything is different. Hope this helps, Harry

Mike Tilton - 04:06pm Jul 17, 1998 EST (#864 of 867)
More info on my mystery Cub Cadet. Steve - I looked for numbers in the area you mentioned and nothing, but heres what I did find. So we know which right im talking about, if im sitting on the tractor.... on the right, upside down is "351530-R" just under that is the IH logo. On the left, also upside down, I found a raised tag attached with either 4 screws or pins that looks like..(*6*28*3*) asteriks are screws. Now looking at the cub web site if 351530 is the serial it's a 1970, if 6283 is the serial it's a 1961. Any ideas anyone???? steve?harry?bob? Now for the engine. I removed the gas tank and engine marked JAY-12 TAMPER is a "WISCONSIN AIR COOLED GASOLINE ENGINE". Did IH ever offer that as an option?????. looking at the web page, my cadet looks like the one shown restored, including the oil bath air cleaner, and the hood decal matches the one the kids are playing on. thanks for any help... Mike

Mike Tilton - 04:33pm Jul 17, 1998 EST (#865 of 867)
More... went to garden tractor pulling web site, the 1961 cub pictured on the Cub Cadet web site is also there and lists that it has a wisconsin engine.

Steve Kennedy - 04:40pm Jul 17, 1998 EST (#866 of 867)
Mike @ 864,865 - I'm pretty sure the number on the casting that is stamped upside down is simply a casting or part number for the housing. On my 100 the serial number is on the small pad I described which is just towards the front of the housing from this upside down casting number. It is pretty faint and quite a bit smaller than the casting number. Also the decal you described sounds like a 70 or 100. I can't quite make out the model number of the one on the web page with the kids playing on it but it may be a 100. As to the Wisconsin engine hopefully Bob or ? can speak to that.

Bob Necker - 05:33pm Jul 17, 1998 EST (#867 of 867)
Mike that number you are referring to on the left side is probably not a "stamped" number but rather a cast in "raised" number. Same for the number on the left. I believe that a closer inspection will reveal that the "screws" are, infact, not screws but part of the casting itself. I have been told that this is the cast date. I cannot verify that but it sounds logical.
A crucial bit of information that will identify your tractor is the drive system. Does the drive shaft run under the tractor and connect to the engine crankshaft with Vee belt (Original) or run directly in line with the engine crankshaft to the reduction gear housing (all others).
The serial number on an Original will be found stamped on the reduction gear housing going vertically from "upper to lower" on the forward portion of the housing.
See what you can do with this information to ID your machine. Look for the tag on the fan housing to get engine numbers. It is possible that someone has applied Wisconsin decals on a Kohler engine. Not that I have seen everything, but I have never seen a Wisconsin engine with this type air cleaner, or seen one on a Cub Cadet that came that way from the factory. Bob

Harry Bursell - 11:57pm Jul 17, 1998 EST (#868 of 871)
Mike @865 and Steve @866 - I'm not sure I can contribute much but I believe the unit the kids are playing on is either a 102, 122 or 123. It has the square type fenders and the padded fiberglass seat. I believe the model 71 was the 7 or 8hp unit during the 122/123 era. It had the C spring and metal seat and fenders were optional but not sure if they were the square type or rounded (think they were square). Mike if you double click on the statements about the "70 and 100" on the Cub Web site you'll see pictures of these 2 units. They have a "C" spring and metal seat, rounded fenders, and foot rests that are NOT connected with the fenders. I also think the front cast grill piece is a different shape thatn the 122/123 style. Again if you look at the unit the kids are playing on the grill has a slight curve 3 or 4 inches from the top, and if you look at the 70/100 the grill appears to be straight up and down. I've only ever seen one 100 so I can't add much. Hope this also helps in your determination, except many of these parts, even the rear ends, could be interchanged from one era to the other. Bob's info on the drive shaft is probably the most definite identifying feature. Harry

Harry Bursell - 12:14am Jul 18, 1998 EST (#869 of 871)
Mike and Steve - curve is towards the bottom (not top) of the cast grill on 122/123. Also the grill insert on the 122/123 was a grate type similar to the grates in a gas grill. The 70/100 appear to have a mesh metal grill insert slightly heavier than screen. Harry

Ken Wagenknecht - 02:31am Jul 18, 1998 EST (#870 of 871)
currently 3 cubs, 2-129's 1-128 For sale or trade: Headlight mounting rings for a 122. (2 inners/2 outers) Looking for a spring assist for a 129/128. Also need chrome lift handle for same model.

BRIAN STIMPLE - 02:43am Jul 18, 1998 EST (#871 of 871)
Can anybody help? I bought a 1250 and a 1450 (plus numerous replacement parts and too many man hours) and still don't have anything to mow the lawn with. The 1250 needs an overhaul but the 1450 seems to be pretty sound enigne wise. The problems is this 14 hp tractor bogs down in thick grass which a 72 I used to run would walk thru without any problem. Govenor? carb adjustment? Would really appreciate any suggestions-(wife is getting mad) Thanks.

John Simpson (Ft. Lauderdale) - 03:14pm Jul 18, 1998 EST (#872 of 878)
Well, after replacing the head gasket, resurfacing the head, replacing the spark plug, rebuilding the carburetor (twice), replacing the condensor, and setting the pointsd, I finally figured out why my 128 would only run on ether! These things don't run on diesel!!!

Harry Bursell - 11:57pm Jul 18, 1998 EST (#873 of 878)
Brian @871 - I'd try a governor sensitivity adjustment. Hope you have a service manual where it's pretty well detailed.
John @872 - thanks for the tip on correct fuel. How's she run now anyway.

Harry Bursell - 12:07am Jul 19, 1998 EST (#874 of 878)
Brian @871 - I should have mentioned making sure the points are set at .020 or better yet you have verified the timing. Then go to the governor sensitivity adjustments. If you don't have a manual come back here with your spring connections points. Harry

Tom Hoffman - 08:07am Jul 19, 1998 EST (#875 of 878)
Hey guys, long time, no talk!! Been busy in the wonderful world of construction, not much time for fun thhings. Picked up a 124 just the other day and needed to make some carb adjustments on it. I noticed that it has only one adjustment screw! It is a WALBRO carb. Here is the question, what is the original brand carb for this tractor? Is the WALBRO carb interchangable with a carb on a 100? The one on 100 is wore out, the engine rolls from the throttle shaft being so worn. Not much action on #590, picking up misc. parts when I run across them. Gettin' ready for the "Winter Project". LATER TOM

Clayton Rowland - 04:50pm Jul 19, 1998 EST (#876 of 878) Wildwood MO
Hi all, Does anybody have a line on a used crank for a 149 K321 kohler w/ stock pin diameter??? The kohler dealer says this part is no longer available. What a shame. I had some corespondence with the kohler people, (they have a web sight http://kohlerco.com/engines.html) The Kseries engines have been discontinued because of EPA regs. They are still making parts and replacement engines though. (not the crank for a cub) They have a similar unit the magnum engine. I cant tell the diference between the two blocks (no points) but they are apperently different. OH well just thought I would share that.

David C - 07:10pm Jul 19, 1998 EST (#877 of 878)
I have whats left of 4 Cub Cadets to part out, models 71,105,106 & 123. I have no engines or parts. Also have a few owners manuals & 3 Cub Cadet 3 ring binders with parts books, each binder covers 14 to 18 models. email direct at DeeCee@dekalb.net David

John Simpson (Ft. Lauderdale) - 09:29pm Jul 19, 1998 EST (#878 of 878)
Harry @873: Great!

Harry Bursell - 11:04pm Jul 19, 1998 EST (#879 of 890)
Dave Holtmart @570 - this is going back a ways, but wanted to let you know I pulled 3 steering wheels today using your method of a nut and bolt, hammer and up pressure with legs on wheel. It worked slick, really great, etc. I didn't bugger any threads or chip or crack the wheel as I had been with a puller. Hey guys, this is the way to remove your steering wheels. Suggest you print a copy of 570. Thanks again Dave. Harry

Harry Bursell - 11:08pm Jul 19, 1998 EST (#880 of 890)
Clayton @876 - Hope someone will identify the differences in the K Series and the Magnum Series. I had thought besides the electronic ignition the Magnum was aluminum with a cast iron sleeve. If the Magnum crank won't work in a K series there must be other differences. Maybe Ken Updike or others can fill us in. Also an earlier message noted you can turn the crank .010. Harry

Brian Stimple - 12:47am Jul 20, 1998 EST (#881 of 890)
Harry at (873) and (874)- Thanks for the suggestions. I have checked the timing and points gap. I have also checked the valve tappet clearance. I do have a k series manual and will try the governer adjustment. I did notice one thing I thought was unusual, when I shut the engine off all of the fuel in the fuel line to the carb drains into the carb. Is this usual?
On another note my wife got to drive her dad's original in an antique tractor show today (we're hooked now). For an excellent show It's Camp Creek Threshers in Waverly NE this time every year. The equipment parade lasted over 2 and 1/2 hours!

Harry Bursell - 07:26am Jul 20, 1998 EST (#882 of 890)
Tom @875 - I checked #590 and it's not your posting. Were you looking for something or parting out something?
Brian @881 - Per the IH Cub Engine Manual, if the motor bogs done under load you need to increase sensitivity or increase spring tension. Not sure what the Kohler manual may indicate (But sure would like to have a copy of that K Series Manual - know where I can get one? anybody?). On the fuel, I think the draining is unusal and may indicate your needle and seat or float are stuck open, guess this may also be the problem, but wouldn't think it would run, just flood. Glad to hear your wife has seen the light. Where are you in NE? Thanks Harry

Harry Bursell - 09:23am Jul 20, 1998 EST (#883 of 890)
Clayton @876 & Chuck @658 & 714 For used Kohler parts, complete motors, etc., you can use the search feature at the bottom of the forum page. Check out John @ 493 and 530 as a source for used Kohler parts. Harry

CHUCK HUNT - 10:03am Jul 20, 1998 EST (#884 of 890)
ihave lots & lots of used kohler parts, we have parted out over 300 kohler engines. Have everything from blocks to sheet metal, including lots of cranks. Also used cub & wheel horse parts in our "grave yard" thanks, Chuck P.s. E-mail as i'm gone quite a bit

Jared Piacenti - 10:51am Jul 20, 1998 EST (#885 of 890)
Harry #882 - The #590 Tom is refering to is the serial number on his prize original.

Harry Bursell - 11:25am Jul 20, 1998 EST (#886 of 890)
Jared @885 - thanks for the clarification. How could I have erred so badly. My apologizes to Tom and all. Memory loss at my young age? Thanks, Harry

Joe Scott - 11:56am Jul 20, 1998 EST (#887 of 890)
Tom, do you own that prized #590? Chuck @884, do you have a snow blade for an Original or the control linkages that would work on a different blade? THANKS JOE

Anton Rothbauer - 07:35pm Jul 20, 1998 EST (#888 of 890)
Chuck Hunt, what is your e-mail address for the Kohler engine parts and Cadet parts? anton@otherside.com

Tom Hoffman - 08:02pm Jul 20, 1998 EST (#889 of 890)
Harry @ 886. Don't sweat it, I get older every day and remember less and less too! Joe @ 887. Yup, I do! Bob @ ???? Got the letter today, Thanks!!! I didn't expect that at all. Buy the way, my birthday is closer.

Kevin Liston - 08:57pm Jul 20, 1998 EST (#890 of 890)

Hey guys! I know I'm asking a lot, but does anyone have any litterature for an Origional cub for sale? I should mention that I really don't want to spend a years salary on it. I picked up another Origional saturday. It is complete with deck, fenders, origional paint and decals. The engine is bad but I have already taken care of that.The best part is it cost me a whopping 50.00! Thanx, Kevin

Harry Bursell - 10:58pm Jul 20, 1998 EST (#893 of 908)
Brian @891 & Ted @892 - I haven't done any deck spindle bearings yet myself. I have noticed that the early units (122 etc.) used a cast housing spindle which I understand is very expensive. Later IH went to a steel housing which I'm getting close to tearing down for my 149 deck. Brian, since you have a 1250 & 1450 you probably have 44A or 50A decks. The service manual for these notes the bearing as replaceable. Ted, can you confirm the Fafnir bearing will work in all spindles? Or Rick, Dave, or Ken, can you confirm if the bearings are all alike? Brian, thanks for the Kohler K manual info. I'll call the Dealer. Say, NE is a great State. I grew up just north in SD and also have relatives in Hartington and Creighton. Would really like to make one of the shows back there, but 1500 miles is a long way for my Cub. Wonder if Ken Updike has info for his book on the longest Cub ride ever? Thanks again, Harry

Jerry Bliler - 02:04am Jul 21, 1998 EST (#894 of 908)
I am still looking for a haben sickle-bar mower and any info on fitting one to a 100 I am not sure what you have to do to kill one of these tractors Istill have all of the sales and attachment book has anyone ever seen a jenkins-utility carryall unit it was 44 in. wide top of seat 26in. it offered seating for TWO people---double the fun it claimed to allow all frount and centerline attechments Knj@aol.com thanks alot

Mike Dane - 06:26am Jul 21, 1998 EST (#895 of 908)
Harry: Reguarding spindle bearings. I was informed at my local Cadet dealer that the bearing is NLA for the 44A decks. It is a sealed type much like a waterpump bearing. You have to update to a new design that includes the spindle. Costs about $100. each. I have since found the bearings aftermarket but they cost $89. Personally I'd got with the updated version because then you are able to replace the bearings seperately.BTW the new spindle housings are diecast ala MTD. Keep on Cubbin" Mike Dane

Dave Holtmart - 06:46am Jul 21, 1998 EST (#896 of 908)
Hi guys,been a while since I could check in, my modem died, missed alot. Harry glad the bolt & nut worked for you. Dave

Steve Kennedy - 08:01am Jul 21, 1998 EST (#897 of 908)
Jerry @ 894: I am interested in the sales and attachment literature you have for the 100. I am restoring a 1965 100 and have the original owners manual but would like copies of any literature you have. Am willing to pay for your photocopies and mailing. Please e-mail if you are willing. I tried your e-mail address but it came back as undeliverable ?? Thanks - Steve

Joe Scott - 03:09pm Jul 21, 1998 EST (#898 of 908)
Ted, I have not found a way, other than local common carriers, to ship those parts. I will be talking to a guy within the next week or so, I'll keep you posted. Does anyone on here have an idea on how to get a bunch of parts from N. MI to central PA? Ted & I have a deal worked out, but shipping tractors tain'nt cheap!!!! Any help would be appreciated. I'm still looking for that snowblade for my Cub. Any ideas on linkages etc.. I'm sure I could find a blade, the linkages are the problemo. HAPPY MOWING JOE

chuck hunt - 04:24pm Jul 21, 1998 EST (#899 of 908)
Hey guys just bought several cub cadet tractors including " an original & snow blade" & 128, 1100, 1250, 582, 682 & some misc. all to be parted out if interested in e-mail me at chas@in-motion.net Dont be surprised if it takes me a couple days to get back to you as have been going 7 days 14hrs since early spring with no chance to slow down. Thanks chuck!

Billy Kidd - 09:23pm Jul 21, 1998 EST (#900 of 908)
Would like to find creeper drive for a 70 or 126 cadet.

Harry Bursell - 11:48pm Jul 21, 1998 EST (#901 of 908)
Mike @895 - even $89 seems extreme to me for bearings. I hope Ted or others come back noting the bearing is available aftermarket and replaceable on the 44A deck.

Joe Scott - 09:01am Jul 22, 1998 EST (#902 of 908)
For sale: Original headlamps & 3 point hitch for an Original.

Jim Schmitt - 11:24am Jul 22, 1998 EST (#903 of 908)
Hi, I'm new to the world of Cub Cadets. I bought a 125 July the 9th, and I've been checking out the Cub Cadet website and reading all of the messages on this list. . . . Cool stuff!!!
My 125 was used hard but seems restorable. The engine starts and runs good, but the front wheels were slopped and won't hold their bearings. The hydro seemed a bit weak so I changed the oil and filter and it seemed pretty good. I started to remove the sheet metal and discovered about a 1/2" of greasy grime covering the entire hydro unit. After cleaning the entire unit, I got brave and decided to replace the gasket between the hydro and the differential (someone mentioned that as being a good idea whenever you split the tractor). Anyway I discovered some small pieces of metal inside the hydro. The metal pieces look like a thin plate (14 or 16 guage probably) that had some holes in it and then got chewed up pretty bad. The two pieces I found are roughly 1/3 to 1/2 the size of a dime, and I managed to fish them out of the hole that connects the hydro to the differential unit.
Now my question is the hydro toast? My brother, who owns and maintains several tractors of his own, is of the opinion that the damage is done. He thinks I should put 'er back together and get some use out of it. If I need repairs later the cost differential will not be that great.
I should mention that we tested the hydro after changing the oil, and she ran up the hill in back of my house like a rocketsled on rails. . . . ????

Kenneth Updike - 04:18pm Jul 22, 1998 EST (#904 of 908)
Mike...#895...Harry..#901..Why buy the new MTD replacement spindle bearing kit for $100 when the original IH ST 745 bearings are still availible????? We at C&G found the vendor IH had sold their bearing business off to and they still make the ST 745's. Cost is $64. Even if you have to buy the two tin bearing flanges its still CHEAPER to stay original!!! Don't be fooled by MTD when they say NLA all the time. We list the ST 745's at www.mailbag.com/users/cngcoinc Dave...#896...Did your modem have any MTD chips in its circut board????? Steve..#897..Be ready to sell the house if your going to start buying old CUB CADET sales literature. I just paid good $$$ for good paper at the Penfield, IL. IH show. The Brand X Literature the paper recyclers won't even take!!!! Anyone interested in IH Red 782 CUB CADETS less the engine??? I just bought two of these(and an ORIGINAL, which I'm keeping)today. Would make good rebuilders or a nice turbine powered mower???? E-mail me if interested.

Clayton Rowland - 05:16pm Jul 22, 1998 EST (#905 of 908) Wildwood MO
Harry@880, If you go to Kohler's web sight at: http://kohlerco.com/engines.html They will send you the literature, (clik on feedback and E-mail) I wrote and asked them about the K's and the magnum and they sent me pamphlets on K's magnums and thier whole line, first class mail ($1.01 to me in 2 or 3 days) The new magnums are cast iron blocks and look very similar to Ks. I have never taken one apart but I wouldn't hesitate to buy a tractor with one on it. The only specs given in the literature were the same: Bore stroke and all the overal engine dimentions. even compression ratios are the same. Clay,

Kevin Anderson - 08:54pm Jul 22, 1998 EST (#906 of 908)
looking for cub 106 or126 with good tin and chassis. motor not important in N Y or Penn area

Mike Dane - 10:03pm Jul 22, 1998 EST (#907 of 908)
I've got a few Cubs for sale: A 1963 Original, has fenders with reflectors, creeper drive, rear hitch with spring assist, original mowing deck, original tires, full set wheel covers, new wiring harness, battery, bearings, belts, etc. I sandblasted and refinished every square inch of this machine two years ago. I have used it on ocassion to mow the lawn and brought it to a few shows. I always store it and everything else I own with a motor on it, inside. I'd like to get $1500 for it. I have a model 122 (no creeper) with a 42 inch mower, rear hitch, that runs real strong. It has working front and rear lights, newer seat,and comes with a rusty snowblade,Brinely and hardy land plow and wheel harrows that are also rusty but could be used as is. I want $750 for the package and will not seperate. I have a Cadet 80 Hydro that I have recently gone thru and is in perfect working order. It has a mower and also comes with some sort of snow blade that the previous owner had fitted at some point. I want $250 for this set-up This stuff is located near Springfield Mass. My e-mail is vwcub@webtv.net I might be able to help with local delivery.

Harry Bursell - 10:43pm Jul 22, 1998 EST (#908 of 908)
Jerry @ 894 - I'll try to get the Haban literature I mentioned previously for a sickle bar mower. It was for a 122 but would still be very close.
Ken @904 - thanks for the bearing info. I want to take the spindle apart and check the problem. It seems to have a lot of side to side play but turns quite freely. Since I haven't done this before I'm somewhat concerned the shaft or something else may be my problem. I'll get back with you on what I need. No doubt I want to stick with IH parts.
Also, in the message at 880, Clayton needed a crank for a K and Kohler doesn't make it anymore for a Cub, but all the Magnum specs are the same. Do you happen to know why the cranks might be different?
Mike @907 - sounds like a sad day in Springfield. I can see selling the others but the restored Original too. With all the blood, sweat and tears in it you must be moving into a maintenance free condo. And, with you mowing deck and other attachments, at your posted price I'd guess you won't have it very much longer. Hope you're not leaving the Cub line. Harry

Mike Wheat - 05:15pm Jul 23, 1998 EST (#913 of 935)
I need help/advice on starter/generators. My '64 100's began to turn slower when starting and kinda labored so I put a spare from our pulling tractor on it, and it works fine. I popped it open and everything appears to be in good condition...no broken windings etc. The bushes were worn, which I expected, but there was still some brush there. I figured that to be the problem and bought new ones, cleaned it up carefully, re-assembled and still it moves like a turtle with no power. I had it apart last night and again today, thinking that there must be something I was missing. I just don't see the problem....Mike

John Simpson - 07:57pm Jul 23, 1998 EST (#914 of 935)
Mike Dane (907): Can you dliver to Ft. lauderdale?

Ryan Klatt - 08:03pm Jul 23, 1998 EST (#915 of 935)
Wanted: Pair of round fenders for Cub Cadet Model 100.

Harry Bursell - 11:26pm Jul 23, 1998 EST (#916 of 935)
All Forum Members/Users - if you need someones e-mail address you can get it by double clicking on their "blue name" of their message entry, ONLY if they are a registered user. So come on all you Cub fans, enter yourselves as a registered user. It also makes posting a message easier. (Bob Necker - correct me if I'm wrong on this). Thanks Harry

Jared Piacenti - 11:00am Jul 24, 1998 EST (#917 of 935)
Hello All, I'm working on my putting my 123 back into respectable condition and I noticed that I'm missing a piece of sheetmetal. What I'm missing is and I quote from the parts manual "panel ass'y, rear frame cover back" In other words it's the the panel behind and below the seat, and above the 3 point lift. This panel bolts between the fenders and is what the IH logo is attached to. The 122 and 123 panels are the same so if anyone has an extra one or know of where one is please email me because the parts department tells me NLA.

Harry Bursell - 01:05pm Jul 24, 1998 EST (#918 of 935)
Jared @917 - I know the panel you are refering to and I believe you cannot use it if you also have a rear lift device. You mentioned a 3 point lift. Cub has a 3 point hitch which is the draw bar (1 point) and 2 additional points. These do not lift but are merely attaching points which would not interfere with the panel. If you have the rear lift device which is raised or lowered from your lift handle, I believe this is in place of the panel. I'll compare to my 124 and also see if I have a good panel. Harry

Ron Wall - 03:16pm Jul 24, 1998 EST (#919 of 935)
I have an almost running Cub Cadet--don't know exactly which model as I type. But I am interested in restoring it to as close to new condition as possible. Where can I get parts? I'll likely need some engine parts, and I know I'll need a hood. Thanks. Ron

Harry Bursell - 04:39pm Jul 24, 1998 EST (#920 of 935)
Ron @919 - Earthlink.net - where are you located. Your e-mail at "Earthlink.net" would seem to be out of this world. Does NASA ship to your location - ha, ha. More honestly, if you don't have a Cub Cadet Dealer listed in your Yellow Pages, you can also try a CASE/IH Implement Dealer. Also, several people on the Forum swap or sell parts that are "good as new". There are some dealers on the Forum who sell new, new old stock, other than new, and well broken-in. Suggest you post a message with your city/town/state location and your Cadet model number. For a web site you can check www.mailbag.com/users/cngcoinc This is a dealer site where Ken Updike (frequent forum -not flyer- contributor from WI)is located. Watch out for his new screaming yellow page, he also lists many many parts. This is earth to earthlink.net signing off. Harry

Ron Wall - 05:25pm Jul 24, 1998 EST (#921 of 935)
Thanks very much Harry. I'm in Rolesville NC-about 12 miles northeast of Raleigh. Will check dealers after I find out exactly what I need. I'm a bit surprised at the level of interest in these seemingly indestructible tractors. Thanks again. Ron

Kenneth Updike - 07:18pm Jul 24, 1998 EST (#922 of 935)
Ron...#921...See our web page as Harry listed,(he does not get a commission from me...), I added the colors and graphics this week, pretty neat stuff!! And like so many other participants here, I have "been there and done that" with a CUB CADET. Fire away with your questions, someone will have the answer here. What model CUB CADET does yours resemble anyways????
Bob R.....#911...Please use CUB CADET hydrostatic oil (Red color label) or HY-TRAN plus tractor hydraulic oil from a case-IH dealer, in you hydrostatic CUB CADET. DO NOT use ATF or DEXRON II!!!
John....#914...Are you considering trading the CUB CADET off for a CADET 95 ELECTRIC mower yet??? (they don't have carbs)
Bob N....Do you have a complete set of decals availible for the CUB CADET ORIGINAL??? Including the air cleaner, and lubrication decals?? Need to start getting parts lined up for the new toy!!

Tom Hoffman - 10:21pm Jul 24, 1998 EST (#923 of 935)
???? for all........What is the correct tourque (in foot pounds) for a 12 Kohler?
Ken @ 922. What do the lubrication decals look like, and where do they go?? When I was doing my "Original" I saw a circle with a pointed arrow directing where to insert the grease gun!?

Joe Cro - 06:22am Jul 25, 1998 EST (#924 of 935)
Hello all Cub Cadet fans. I'm the proud owner of a 1975 10HP "100" I picked up last evening with a factory snow plow attachment. Would anyone know where I can get a good used mowing deck? Any other attachments? Also, how much play is acceptable in the steering? Is the generator a Delco or Autolite? Are there any local clubs in SE PA or NJ? Any information would be appreciated. Thank You.

Brad Boyd - 07:32am Jul 25, 1998 EST (#925 of 935)
Hey Guys, Great forum on cubs. I usually hang out on the pulling forum, but I check this site out daily. I have a 124 that has been converted into a puller. I have the mower deck, brackets, lift arm, etc. that was gutted from it. What't it worth to anybody out there? I'm in West TN. My wife says the shop needs to cleaned out. Ha, little does she know. If you guys are like me, everytime something goes out the door, someone finds me something to bring back in. Let me know if anyone needs the above parts. I'll trade them for a blowed up 12, 14,or 16 HP Kohler. Good Day, B.B.

Kenneth Updike - 09:12am Jul 25, 1998 EST (#926 of 935)

Tom....#923...I don't know what the lubrication decal looks like at all. I ordered one and got the modern version of the grease gun circle decal like those used on a STEIGER 4wd. The part # is 2750739R1 with 1 used per machine. I would guess that these are black and white in color, and I don't know thier exact location. I hope the decal location blueprints will show this. Anyone here have a good lubrication decal for an ORIGINAL?????

Kevin - 10:05am Jul 25, 1998 EST (#927 of 935)
I just purchased an unrestored Origional that still has all the decals on it.The lube decal is baddly faded but it appears to be black and white. It is a circle with an arrow with a grease gun in it. It is located on the right side of the frame (if you're sitting on it),just ahead of the foot board pointing at a 45 degree angle forward toward the mower deck.I would also like to have one of these decals. Kevin

Harry Bursell - 06:37pm Jul 25, 1998 EST (#928 of 935)
Jared @917 - I looked at my 124 and if you have a rear lift device you cannot use the panel you are looking for. I believe the panel on my 124 is exactly the same as the 122, and probably others for that matter. It is in fair condition, with a few dents, and needs paint badly. E-mail me at IHCubCadet@aol.com if you're interested.
Joe @924 - if your machine is from 1975 it must be a 1000 not 100. If it has a Delco belt driven starter/generator mounted on the side of the motor it must be a 100. I'd check your serial number against the listing on the IH Cub Cadet site.
Jerry @894 - I finally saw the guy I sold my sickle bar to. He loaned the manual to the guy whose is going over the unit but will try to get it back for me to copy. I'll let you know when I get it. Harry

John Simpson - 09:48pm Jul 25, 1998 EST (#929 of 935)
No, Ken; but I switched from diesel to gasoline!

Tom Hoffman - 10:05pm Jul 25, 1998 EST (#930 of 935)
Ken, When I was in the process of restoring my "Original", I came across that same decal. I beleive that it is pointing out the grease fitting for the throw out bearing. I took some photo's of it. If I can find them I'll send you a copy of it. LATER TOM

Brian Stimple - 12:11am Jul 26, 1998 EST (#931 of 935)
Does anyone know if dual rear disc brakes were standard equipment on 1450's? I just saw a unit with these on it. My tractor doesen't and don't look like it ever did. Got to have them on mine. Does anyone have anything like that laying around?
Also has anyone seen or done the throttle and choke shaft bushing repair procedure in the K-Series engine manual. My local resources act like they have never heard of it. It would seem like it would be a good alternative to buying a whole new carb. (or not?)

Harry Bursell - 12:54am Jul 26, 1998 EST (#932 of 935)
Brian @931 - My 1450 circa 1978 has the internal wet brakes while my circa 1976 has the disc type. I believe the wet type was a late introduction by IH. Ken Updike mentioned this in an earlier message. I'm not sure you can just add the disc type to a wet type rear. I'll try to look at the differences in the way they are set up. I know the disc type need a large pivot pin with 2 connection points coming off the front of the rear. The rods from the brake pedal connect to these. There may also be a difference in the type of connection at the brake pedal. As far as having these lying around, I do have a 169 and 86 (same frames)that are both disc type. Probably could part with all the pieces. As for the bushing repair on the carb, I got to get one of those Kohler K series manuals (got the name of a dealer selling them from earlier message). Hope someone else can speak to the repair, I'm also interested.
Tom @923 - if you're looking for head bolt torque, I checked the IH Cub Cadet Engine manual and it notes 25-30 ft.lbs.
Dave Holtmart @403 (goes back aways)- Haven't seen you on for a while. Must be riding your Spirit of 76 in a lot of parades. Wanted to let you know I did the de-carboning on my 149, Used a putty knife which worked well. Not to much carbon on the cylinder wall. Valves and seats look good, just scraped the carbon off. Gotta check and set the valve clearance now and I think she be all set for another 500hrs.
Thanks again, Harry

Harry Bursell - 01:25am Jul 26, 1998 EST (#933 of 935)
Ken Updike - I noticed on your CG Web site you list a plastic IH emblem for Cadet grills for I think $9.50. Can you provide more details about where this is from? I have a plastic emblem between the headlights on my 1450. Is this the same? It's quite a nice black and red raised plastic IH emblem but my silver edging is worn and has scratches across it. It has 2 mounting screws in the back and I think it could mount on most grill areas (away from heat tho). One more thing I haven't seen anyone ask, just a few comments here and there, but I really liked the power steering on my 1872. Is there a power steering set up (probably MTD) that could be added to my 1450 without re-engineering and sorta reasonably priced (gulp)? Thanks Harry

Harry Bursell - 02:21am Jul 26, 1998 EST (#934 of 935)
Tom @923 and others - I found a Kohler K series graph chart in a book by Paul Dempsey which shows:
K301(12hp) peak torque 22.25ft lbs @2200 rpm. Also max. brake hp is 12@35-3600rpm but torque is 17.5ft lbs. at this point.
Others interested are:
K241(10hp) peak torque 16.5ft lbs @2400rpm, and max. brake hp is 10@3600rpm torque is 14.5ft lbs.
K321(14hp) peak torque is 23.5ft lbs @2400rpm and max. brake hp is 14@3600rpm torque is 20.5ft lbs.
The BIG K341(16hp) peak torque is 28.25ft lbs. @2600rpm with max. brake hp 16@3500rpm torque is 23.5ft. lbs. Harry

Dave Holtmart - 07:14am Jul 26, 1998 EST (#935 of 935)
Brian, at 931 I don't think the bushing kits are available anymore (carb),I tried to get one a couple of yrs. ago and couldn't one. Harry, been out of service modem took a power surge and just got back up and running. Glad to here some of the things i've told about have worked. Dave
http://www.voyager.net/cgi-bin/webx/WebX.cgi?14@2.nd3e7J81^15@.ee72aa2

Ted Shushereba - 08:25am Jul 26, 1998 EST (#936 of 966)
Tom #923 and Ken #926 Regarding the lubrication decal, it is of course for the clutch, and it is located 9/16" from the bottom edge of the frame on the generator side of the tractor (right side), and it is 11/16" from the diameter of the rear bolt hole used to attach the mower deck.
The color is black and yellow, not white. The arrow is yellow, and the little grease gun inset is black. The yellow matched the color of the tractor. That's the good news. The bad news is that the day I cleaned up my frame I did not take a picture of it because the local Cub dealer told me I could get a new one. When I went to buy it, he told me they were no longer available.
I would like to buy two, so if it is available (the yellow and black one), let me know. Thank you, Ted

Harry Bursell - 09:49am Jul 26, 1998 EST (#937 of 966)
Joe @924 - I didn't see a reply on your question about steering play. Hydro Drive units should have "slight play", while Gear Drive units could have up to 1/2 turn. Guys driving Hydros need better steering as they keep one hand on the wheel and other hand on speed control lever. Gear Drive guys just put it in gear and go, so their hands are freeeeeee to play with steering wheel (Ha,ha,- he,he, sorry I had to put in plug again for Hydros. We had Gear/Hydro debate while back).

Truth is I haven't seen spec for play. I think steering is really weak link in Cubs but is not real difficult to adjust or repair (once you've done it a few times). My guess on great steering would be 1" play while acceptable is probably 2", anymore suggests trying adjustment or rebuild box. Maybe one of the shop guys can confirm or better address (but he has to be a Hydro driver). Hope this helps, Harry

Lance Gyldenege - 12:28pm Jul 26, 1998 EST (#938 of 966)
I am looking for the following parts for a 129. Front grille hood extension. the section that the headlights mount into. part # IH-61294-c1 Headlight mounting parts right engine shroud cover - this is a small side piece called Panel extension RH #IH-544193-R1 Tail lights - Patrs list shows only reflectors. I have tail lights. The bases are intact, so I could get away with just the lens. I am also mounting an electric clutch on the front of this unit to replace the manual one. Has anyone else ever done this? Can any other large engine be used to replace the 12 hp. It is a good engine, but always more power!! If I read the previous messages right then 108,109,128,129,149 & 169 parts should fit. Chuck Hunt You said you had a 128 for parts, but I can't get the forum to give me your E-mail. Thanks Lance

Mason Ridlen - 12:50pm Jul 26, 1998 EST (#939 of 966)
I was browsing the Des Moines Register (Sunday) & ran across a few ads for Cub Cadets. A 149 hydro, mower & snowblower $1200/offer. A 105 10hp hydro, hydraulic pto, 42" deck, bad engine $200. A 129 hydro,12hp hydraulic lift, clean $750. I haven't called or seen them but do the $ sound in the ballpark?

Brian Stimple - 02:02pm Jul 26, 1998 EST (#940 of 966)
Harry@932 Thanks for the info. My 1450 is 1979 era so it probably didn't have them. Let me know if it looks like they would work on an internal type. As of now I really don't have a brake to speak of. The pedal just throws out the hydro but does not lock the wheels. We tried to set the brake when we hauled the tractor but to no avail. Do you know what the adjustment procedure is? Thanks

Tom Hoffman - 09:36pm Jul 26, 1998 EST (#941 of 966)
Does anyone have a instruction booklet on how to adjust a Walbro carb, or know what the adjustments would be? The one I have has just one adjusting screw on it, no low and high speed like the Carter. Just won't run right(@*#&$^%!!

Harry Bursell - 10:24pm Jul 26, 1998 EST (#942 of 966)
Lance @938 - check Chuck Hunt's message @899.
Brian @940 - I didn't get a chance to look today. The adjustment procedure is quite simple and I think in the operators manual. There is a small bolt with lock nut on front of rearend that is used to adjust. I'll check and get back to you with more specifics. If you're internal disc is good you can get them to really lock, but on a hill they will eventually release.
Mason @939 - prices look good to me, even the parts machine. Wish I was in Iowa. Harry

Harry Bursell - 11:40pm Jul 26, 1998 EST (#943 of 966)
Lance @938 - the lens cover is Part No IH55187-C1. I got 1 about 6 months ago for $3.72
Brian @940 - I went and looked at the 2-1450s. It would appear you could convert the internal type to the disc type with all the correct parts. I'm not sure what you would do about the internals. Maybe just plug the adjustment screw hole. Maybe someone else has done this conversion or one of the shop guys can advise if this is a good idea.
Also, I checked the op manual on adjusting the internal brakes. Look for the small adjusting screw on the brake lever, on the front side of the rear end. It's on the right side near the hydro tube. Procedure is to loosen the jam nut on this screw and tighten the screw finger tight (8-10in.lbs), then while holding the screw tighten the jam nut. It also states if the brakes drag loosen the jam nut and back the screw off slightly. What is doesn't say is if this is done with the brake on or off. I believe you do this with the brake off or released. Make sure you are on level ground and block the wheels. Hope this helps. Harry

Stephen LaRoche - 02:40am Jul 27, 1998 EST (#944 of 966)
Tom #923 and Ken #926. I would like a set of those lubrication decals for my two originals. Maybe Bob Necker could get some printed up for all of us. I had one on one of my originals when I was restoring it but thought it wasn't supposed to be there and paid it no mind when the wire brush took it away. Hey Bob!! Think this is another possible decal for you to come up with?????

Dave Holtmart - 07:08am Jul 27, 1998 EST (#945 of 966)
Brian,At # 940, if you want to change to disc brakes you need to change the front part of the rearend that holds main gears(input), as this is different than the internal set up. Also need the axles to get rotors. If you need to change the pads they are more expensive, about 15$ per side. There is quite alot of work to change over the rearend must be out of the tractor, as the front casting that needs to changed holds the 2 front mounting bolts for the complete rearend. Dave

John Withouse - 09:14am Jul 27, 1998 EST (#946 of 966)
I believe Ted @ 936 is correct, the lube decal on the Original I bought and resold recently was black and yellow. I have also seen the same style of decal indicating grease fittings on other IH equipment, but these were all red & white or black & white, best I recall. I'll check the Case-IH decal listings at my dealer the next time I'm in there. The black and white ones wouldn't look out of place, and would at least be a good pattern for getting some yellow and black ones made up.

Bob Necker - 09:31am Jul 27, 1998 EST (#947 of 966)
If someone can get a picture of one of those lube decals and the dimensions I'm sure I could get them whipped up for us. It doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough to scan and then I can clean it up.
I'm still working on getting the Air filter instuctions for the Original done. That is a little different situation. It was more of a sticker type and has a lot of small writing on it. A bit trickier, but not impossible!
Did anybody ever find out about the red and black IH stickers for the rear of the tractor and mower decks?
Was everybody satisfied with the hood decals for the Original? The first batch sold out in a hurry and am having some more done. Thanks, one and all. Let me know what you think of them and if I should work on some of these others. Bob

Harry Bursell - 11:35am Jul 27, 1998 EST (#948 of 966)
Original Restorers - I've noticed that the carriage type bolts used on Cub Cadets up to my 1450 era (appx.1976) had an IH logo on the bolt head. When you guys restore your machines are you using bolts with these head markings? Have you found a source for these. Many are not standard hardware store sizes (1/2"long, etc.) If they are available someplace at a reasonable price I'd be interested in small quantities of several sizes. What do you think??? Ken, any sources??? Thanks Harry

Mike Lehere - 12:22pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#949 of 966)
I'm looking for the IH sticker or decal for the rear of the 149. Anybody have a lead on where these can be purchased? Also the air cleaner decal for the 149. I also noticed an area on the front grill that is blank but might have been a location for an IH decal or sticker. Can anyone tell me whether something went in this area of the grill? Also need an air cleaner sticker for the 149. Help!

John Withouse - 01:59pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#950 of 966)
Mike @ 949, the IH decal used on the back of Cub Cadets is still available from Case-IH. They're available in several other sizes, too. The last time I checked (a few months ago) you could get the IH emblem with the white outer border, or the silver one. These are the emblems cut out in the shape of the "IH" logo, I don't recall if the earlier style with the "IH" logo on a white background, black bordered, squarish decal, was available or not. When I repainted my 125, the rear "IH" decal did not come with the set, but the silver bordered one I got from Case-IH was a perfect match. I think the grill area decal only comes as part of the full decal set for the tractor (from Cub Cadet.)

Kenneth Updike - 02:00pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#951 of 966)
Bob N.....#947...Of course you should make ALL of the decals for the original. I'll try to get some IH "paper" to you soon for patterns. The red/black outlined square IH decals are NLA, but I belive they are being reprinted, will keep everyone posted if I found out the specifics.
Harry...#948....IH MADE their own fasteners until the late 1970's -early 80's.(They sold thier hardware and bearing business off) The bolts IH used for itself were stamped with a small IH on them. IH also made hardware for ACE hardware and others. These bolts were stamped WP (West Pullman) named for the factory where they were made in.(located in West Pullman, a Chicago,IL. suburb) Either marking of fastener is OK for CC restoration. However the purists, MUST USE only IH labeled bolts. For those restoring RED 82 series CUB CADETS, ROCKFORD brand bolts are also acceptable. NO ONE makes the IH stamped bolts any more, so don't trash your old bolts, have them replated, I do.
Mike...#949....The center grille decal on the 149 is a black panel with silver pinstripes, no IH on it.
I now have some of the old original(diecast metal knob)IH On-Off switches to sell.(Like those used on the lighting system on the Original) Price is $39.50 each. I have both the single wire and two wire lead switches availible. E-mail me if interested or see our site www.mailbag.com/users/cngcoinc

Harry Bursell - 02:49pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#952 of 966)
Ken @951 & Mike @949- Ken, the black panel with silver pin stripes is in the head light area of the grill on the 149, sometimes referred to as the hood extension. There is no IH logo around these headlights (as there is on my 1450). I believe the grill panel Mike is referring to is the main grill located just below the headlight panel. It is a large hard plastic panel with vented holes into the motor area. This panel does have a blank area approx. 2"x2", for a red/black IH logo decal. I recall this decal being square and covering the entire 2x2 blank, and not cut to the shape of the IH logo as the decal on the back of the tractor. I'll check my 86, 149, 169 this evening and let you know if different than my memory recall (I recently took the best panel and decal for my 149 since the 86/169 are not in use). I believe it has a silver border because the entire panel is black.
Ken - thanks for the IH fastener tidbit. Thought this may have been something you would reference in your book. Can you tell us more about the replating process. It's not something I ever heard of for nuts and bolts. Can you provide more details, how it works, are they good as new, can you send in rust and get back steel, who does it (C&G?), some idea of cost. Thanks Harry

Mike Tilton - 02:57pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#953 of 966)
Bad Day w/the Mystery Cub.... to rehash, my aunt gave me a Cub w/hood decal that matches 70/100, looks like an original, but has a wisconsin engines. thanks to Steve, Bob, Harry, it's ID'd as an Original that was repainted with wrong decal. Wisconsin??? someone told me Kohler bought out Wisconsin way back when? Anyway I ordered a manual and grill IH logo from Ken @ C&G, and a hood decal from Bob. Saturday started cub and mowed for 15 minutes..Powww..rod created an exit the size of my fist in the block wall..^%$&*(! Anyway, im not giving up.. Anyone know where I can get a K-161? Or can a K-241 fit in an original? Yes, Lance more power=more fun. Mike

laville mark - 03:34pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#954 of 966)
does any one know the proper way to service the gear box of the tiller that i got for my cadet? when i took off the cover it looked like it had been filled with weej bearing grease this cannot be right the dealer said use 80w-90 but did not know the level to fill it to.

Joe Scott - 03:48pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#955 of 966)
I still have Original headlamps w/switch wiring, taillight forsale & the 3 point hitch available. E-mail or post here for more details.

Kevin - 05:29pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#956 of 966)
RICK GOODMAN I forgot your e-mail address.I want to know how much you want for the tractor tires you told me about Sunday.The bar tires. Kevin Liston

Mike Dane - 09:20pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#957 of 966)
All is well with my Cubs but I would like to find a complete set of used lights for my 1000. I think 1200,1250,1450,1650 are the same. Anyone have a set kicking around? I'd like the taillights and switch too but they are secondary. I've got a model 30 JD tiller that I'll trade for almost anything Cub Cadet. I thought at one time I might want a JD but the thought now turns my stomach. I'd be glad to trade the tiller for a complete light set up. Mike Dane

Harry Bursell - 10:02pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#958 of 966)
Ken @951 & Mike @949 - I checked the IH decal on the front of my 149 and 169. It is the standard back and red IH decal cut to the shape of IH, with the silver border. Ken, I believe you mentioned they were currently out of stock. I'd like a few when you get them. Would you post a message when they are available. Thanks Harry

Harry Bursell - 10:44pm Jul 27, 1998 EST (#959 of 966)
Laville @954 - I think the gear box on the tiller is the same at the right angle gear box on my QA42A snow thrower. (In the Service manual the boxes look exactly the same). The Thrower Operators manual didn't say what to use unless the box had a fill plug (which mine doesn't)it said use 80W90. I called MTD Cub Technical Support and they said use IH 251H EP Grease or equivalent (which is what I thought was in the box originally - it sure wasn't fluid). I never could find out what exactly the grease was except the EP is for extreme pressure. I ended up using good quality grease (equivalent).
Ken, got any details on the IH grease or what exactly to use? Harry

Ken Wagenknecht - 01:09am Jul 28, 1998 EST (#960 of 966)
currently 3 cubs, 2-129's 1-128
To laville mark: My gear boxes on my tiller and snowblower both have grease in them. I drilled a hole in the covers and put a grease zerk in it. I then refilled them with Kendall Blue EP Wheel Bearing Grease. Have used them both for at least 5 years without trouble, and I bought them used.

Mike Yacavone - 07:45am Jul 28, 1998 EST (#961 of 966) I'm looking for a good running, clean, reasonable 129, 149, or 169 Cub. Must have mower deck, any other attachments also welcome.

Mason Ridlen - 08:04am Jul 28, 1998 EST (#962 of 966)
Mike @ 961 Check #939- They are still in the paper today. Maybe I should look at them & get a better idea of actual condition. I only have one CC & think it is great. I haven't brought myself to "restoring" it yet. $ & time seem to be a factor. I just use it to mow a lot of grass & give grandkids rides. Mason

Harry Bursell - 01:37pm Jul 28, 1998 EST (#963 of 966)
Ken @951 - The C&G web site lists a plastic IH enblems. Is this a standard Cub item and where was it used? Also, any info on adding Power Steering to the IH era Cubs? Someone made a passing comment on this a while back.
Mike @961 - I've got a nice 149 with good running 14hp Kohler K, Hydraulic Lift, 48"deck, 54" snow blade. I picked it up to use when I went over my 1450 (but then I found another 1450). I was going to paint it so it would look real nice but overall it's in great condition, not rusty, paint just gone flat. I've done most of the things it needed. I really had to work the deck over but its great now. You didn't say where you're located. I'm in CT and I'd like $1500 the way it sits, FOB my garage. If you're in Iowa the message Mason noted sounds good but condition is unknown. If you're around WI you could check Carter & Gruenewald Co. at www.mailbag.com/users/cngcoinc They have a list of used Cubs. If you're interested in mine you could e-mail me at IHCubCadet@aol.com Thanks Harry

Kenneth Updike - 05:50pm Jul 28, 1998 EST (#964 of 966)
Harry....#963...The plastic IH emblems we list on the C&G site are mainly for the Original. The "Quiet Line" (1000-1650) also had plastic IH emblems in the upper grille, but these were molded in black plastic, the 2751846R1 we list is molded in white plastic. The ORIGINAL could have either a plastic IH emblem in the grille or a die cast metal(more rare version)IH emblem. These IH emblems are the same ones used on the 706-806-1206 farm tractors. The 82 series Red CC's had a smaller diecast metal IH emblem that has always been NLA.
As for the power steering add on to a Cub Cadet, this is a big $$$$ project and probably not worth it(only the Brand X steer hard!!!). Also the IH 251H grease is OK for gear boxes and should be the grease Cub Cadet owners use for general machine lubrication.
Anyone here interested in a grille to fit an ORIGINAL Cub Cadet with headlight ring mounts in it??? I have one on mine that I want to trade for a stock grille, or will buy a stock grille. Any leads on where to look???? Also I have 2 red 782's (less the engines) with 44" mower decks to sell for $1000 each. Excellent rebuilders or ???, the hydros are OK in both.
Bob N....I see the counter is nearing #1000 on this great site. Any plans to offer an all expense paid trip to MT to see you for the lucky forum poster????

Trent Strawser - 06:56pm Jul 28, 1998 EST (#965 of 966)
Will trade 42 inch international tiller, brinley plow, cultivator and sleeve hitch for blown kohler command engine. Also have a 12hp kohler motor for sale.

Bob Necker - 08:15pm Jul 28, 1998 EST (#966 of 966)
Harry - I think that's an excellent idea about the trip to MT for the 1000th post on the forum. Unfortunately my Cub Cadet budget is a bit light for that sort of premium. Maybe a special Cub Cadet Tee shirt would suffice. As an aside, and don't get me wrong, I never advocate supporting Brand X but just for kicks check out the datribe that goes on in other forums. This site - - http://www.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tools/msg0722430916630.html?24 - - makes ours look like we're all grownups ! ! !
Oh yes I do snoop around the other spots just to see what is happening.

Mike LeHere - 10:16pm Jul 28, 1998 EST (#967 of 971)
I have an opportunity to pick up a 127. Starts right away, doesn't seem to blow ant smoke. Hydro is good. Front end needs rebuilt. Probably have to do some work on the deck. Don't know if there are other problems. Former IH cub cadet dealer took it in. He willing to let it go for $500. Should I make the buy and refurbish it or let it go?

Harry Bursell - 11:15pm Jul 28, 1998 EST (#968 of 971)
Ken @964 - thanks for the info on the emblems. Is the black plastic one for the 1450 still available? Also I see Bob erred thinking I sent the long message but you mentioned the trip to MT, (see note to Bob below)
Bob N - I did see the counter closing on 1000 but Ken the Apostle made the suggestion on the expense paid trip. Please don't try to rub the green stuff off on me. Did you think Ken might miss it if you mentioned my name? (I may have a look just to see, they did use some Kohlers on those machines).
As for the expense paid trip how about maybe even a bus ticket with stops in WI, Chicago, IA, NE, SD, then into the Big Sky Country, and on the return a southern route looping around ID to CA, then AZ, TX all the way to FL, then up the east coast into Canada. I think Greyhounds got a deal for $169, or maybe they need a part-time driver. Think of all the Cubs you could see. Might make the Guiness Book. Keep watching the counter and remember when 2 are on at the same time you won't know which number you're getting till it's posted.
Mike @967 - Well it's kind of a so so situation if you don't really know the tractor or previous owner, who you might want to contact. Front end probably won't be to bad, Deck could be $$$, speed control linkage could be due, also the wiring in the 126/127 seemed to be know for premature breaks. Also, this unit has the narrow or 11" wide frame and may be more difficult to obtain other attachments if that of any interest. If steering and paint are good it may be a tractor well taken care of. Also, tires could be due if they are checking or cracking. Overall, $500 isn't bad if the tractor is generally good, it just depends on how you will use it. You could probably put in $1000, doing most of your own work and have a really great machine which you would know from the inside out. If you decide to do this I'd say it should be good for 20+ years. Good Luck Harry

Bob Necker - 11:46pm Jul 28, 1998 EST (#969 of 971)
Sorry Harry - Lost my mind there for a minute in the heat I guess.

Harry Bursell - 11:26am Jul 29, 1998 EST (#970 of 971)
Bob N - If you're out in the sun to much "Ridin the Range in your Original", suggest you fill the Johnson Bucket Loader with water and just jump in on occassion. I already know in the evenings you use a 12oz tool for cooling off. (29 more and I win the trip) Harry

Harry Bursell - 04:20pm Jul 29, 1998 EST (#971 of 971)
(Pst! - Bob - I checked out the other site and you were right. There's more arguing about other brands than their own. What a great site and participants we have. - Thanks Harry)

Stephen LaRoche - 07:47am Jul 30, 1998 EST (#973 of 983)
I am helping a friend look for a tractor to cut grass and pull a little cart around the yard with a little dirt in it. I found a 1993 Model 1330 hydrostatic Cub Cadet 12.5 hp Kohler engine. Very well maintained. Its a Lawn Tractor, not the garden tractor. The guy said he would like $1500.00 but would negotiate less. My friend has to cut about 1 acre and probably half of that is on a gentle slope. How are the rear ends in the Lawn Tractor versions? He has a steep driveway and I wouldn't want him blowing the rear end pulling a cart with dirt in it you know. He knows absolutely nothing about mechanical type things. Book Smart! and not to much else. Don't mean to offend anybody. Any advice would be helpful.

Maynard Ostrowski - 09:24am Jul 30, 1998 EST (#974 of 983)
I would like to know the difference between a 149 and a 1450. If the 1450 is a better tractor I may trade up. I have a 149 w/44" deck,tiller,grader blade and a snow blower. I use the 149 most for tilling and snow blowing. I also have a 1862 w/54" deck, a good tractor for mowing w/power steering. I started out with a 1330. These Cubs are great machines.

Maynard Ostrowski - 09:41am Jul 30, 1998 EST (#975 of 983)

Stephen @973 the 1330 is a good lawn tractor, it has plenty of power for mowing. The 38" deck has a nice clean cut but it is hard to take on and off.No problem pulling a trailer. It is also very easy to steer. I used mine to cut around burms with slopes and in ditches with no problems. Sold mine with a snow plow for $1400. You can't go wrong with a cub.

CHUCK HUNT - 10:13am Jul 30, 1998 EST (#976 of 983)
hey guys help me out here, I HAVE AN ORIGINAL CUB CADET a lady bought new in 1963. ALL original in excellent shape, was mowing with when i bought it. Now come the Question Should i part it out or is some one interested in it all together. Hate to part this one out. Please advise. Maybe i'll auction it of here to the highest bidder. Thanks!! Chuck

CHUCK HUNT - 10:17am Jul 30, 1998 EST (#977 of 983)
Help' I need either a complete tractor or a rear end for a cub model 1050, 1535 or 1806 This is a 3 speed cub gear box only used a couple of years. I need for a friend who pulls with this transmission/ rear end. will buy complete tractor Condition not important if gear box ok. Thanks !!! Chuck

Harry Bursell - 11:31am Jul 30, 1998 EST (#978 of 983)
Maynard @974 - I currently have 2-1450s and 1-149 in operating condition. The 1450 was the next model after the 149. The 1450 was one of the "Quiet Line" models (per info from Ken Updike). It has complete side panels covering the motor, with an air ducting system and enclosed muffler, all of which I believe "Quiet" the sound of the motor. It also has an integrated starter and electronic regulator vs the belt driven AC Delco starter/generator and standard voltage regulator on the 149. The hydraulic lift and electric front PTO were standard on the 1450. I believe the hydraulic lift was optional on the 149 and I don't think an electric PTO was available. As far as trading up I guess it depends on the cost and what you gain. Some believe the exposed motor on the 149 runs cooler thereby lasting longer. I perfer the 1450 as it was my 1st Cub and I like the looks better with the side panel motor enclosurers. If your 149 does not have the hydraulic lift this is a nice feature for use with a blade or snow thrower. You'll have to weigh the items you gain against your known machine. Hope this helps. Harry

Harry Bursell - 02:09pm Jul 30, 1998 EST (#979 of 983)
Stephen @973 - I can't say on the 1330 except I had a co-worker who dropped his off the back of his pick-up when bringing it home brand new. Somehow it landed on its tires and didn't have any problems. Maynard @975 makes it sound like a good machine too. But with an acre I'd tend to go with a Garden Tractor although I admit I'm partial to the Gardens. I think a Garden with a larger deck would not give as much sensation of rollover on the slopes and also would be better for pulling on a steep driveway. I mentioned in an earlier message I have a nice 149 Hydro with a 14hp Kohler K, 48" deck, hydraulic lift and 54" plow. I'd like $1500 FOB my garage in CT and a bit more if I complete the painting. It might be 20 years older than the 1330 but the 149 will tend to keep it's value better than the 1330. Harry

Clayton Rowland - 03:55pm Jul 30, 1998 EST (#980 of 983) Wildwood MO
Hello again, Can somebody share some wisdome on a few things? I toyed with the thought of putting a internal alternator and gear starter on my 149 in place of the starter generator. I thought it would be easier to start in the winter. is this true? Also what is the benifit in an electric pto cluch? My mecanical cluch is 24 years old and works fine. It has been my experiencethat at some point most electric clutches wear through their ancors and pull out their own cord. Suggestions? Thanks, Clayton

Joe Scott - 04:05pm Jul 30, 1998 EST (#981 of 983)
Hi gang been a while since I've posted anything. I'm posting to get Harry closer to that 1000 mark, he deserves it. I just hope one of us gear drive guys gets it HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!Go gears go!! I just feel sorry for the poor guy who finds this thing this week & has to go through all of these posts just so he doesn't miss any of the good stuff. Although the search feature is awesome. Sorry Ted, but I don't have a solution to our problem,YET still workin' on it. Still have Original parts left fot those interested.SEEYA JOE

Joe Cro - 08:06pm Jul 30, 1998 EST (#982 of 983) Washington Crossing, Penna.
Brad@#925, Would you know if the mowing deck and the attachments from your machine will fit my '75 100? If so, I'm definitely interested. Any information will be appreciated.

Tom Upton - 09:35pm Jul 30, 1998 EST (#983 of 983)
Long time no post. But thought I might add one to help Harry. I have the 124 with the nonworking governor. I have not pulled the engine to start the repair yet. Lifes little minor problems seem to just keep getting in my way. I did however just today receive the original operators manual (setting up instructions) & an abbreviated parts listing for the Mower. Seems the mower was shipped Feb 4, 1969 to University of West Florida, Pensacola, Fl. which is about 40 miles from my home. The K301 engine SN plate is missing so I was extremely pleased to find all the identifing numbers(including the engine SN 3239352) handwritten on the front page of the operators manual.
In my first post way back around 600 I ask if anyone had pictures of the 124 to help me identify it. At that time I was not sure what I had. If anyone is interested I can Email scanned photos (JPG) of Model 72,104,105,124,or 125. These would be grayscale pictures since that is their format in the manuals. Just sorry the original pictures are not in color. Tom

Tom Hoffman - 10:44pm Jul 30, 1998 EST (#984 of 1044)
I can see it now, " VOYAGER HAS A MELTDOWN ON THE CUB CADET PAGE AT THE 1000 MARK". Everyone wants to get that "Tee" shirt!!
Hey, stupid question time---Has anyone ever tried to drill out the 5/16" rollpin hole in the spindle to a 3/8" hole take up the slop in the steering? Would a grade 5 bolt do the trick in place of a rollpin? What damage could this do? LATER TOM

Harry Bursell - 11:30pm Jul 30, 1998 EST (#985 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Tom @984 - I'm hoping for the bus trip myself. Bob never did say he wouldn't. As for your question on drilling the spindle and using a bolt, I don't know how many times I've seen this and it just doesn't work, or if it does it doesn't hold up very long. I think it's ok to drill if the hole is gone oval but use the next size roll pin. You need the spring tension between the cap and the spindle. The pressure in turning is side to side and the bolt only provides it end to end so you end up with the same play. Stick with the roll pin and I suggest Cub double roll pins or as an alternate you can use 2 single roll pins just find the size that fits inside the larger one. Hope this helps Harry

Stephen LaRoche - 06:01am Jul 31, 1998 EST (#986 of 1044)
Harry @979. Thanks for the info. My buddy is going to look at the 1330 tonight. Its a cherry machine and well taken care of. My dealer said the trade in book value in that condition for the 1993 year model would be $1200.00. I think my friend will be buying it. If he doesn't then there are two other people I work with that want to buy this machine in a heart beat. So I still have and am keeping my two Original Cubs and now he is getting a Cub Cadet. That green machine that is sometimes mentioned just isn't holding up as compared to the Cubs. My dads naighbor just picked up a used green thing. He looked and almost bought a Cub Cadet. Oh well, I gues he wwill learn from his mistake. I'm in Ct. also. Take care!

Mike Dane - 06:46am Jul 31, 1998 EST (#987 of 1044)
Here's another one for you Harry. Reguarding the spindle/roll pin connection. I have a 122 that someone had put a bolt in, this did not work. I have a mig welder so I decided to weld up the holes and redrill to 5/16 and reinstall roll pin. If I had a drill press and fixture it would have came out perfect but I just drilled it by hand and it worked fine. I think this steering set-up it a poor design. I noticed my 1000 has a much better set-up. I can imagine that a Johnson loader would make short work of the roll pin connction. BTW I was given a old Bolens Husky a few years ago by my uncle. It had a Johnson Workhorse on it. The loader really worked great nut the Bolens was junk from front to back, top to bottom. I got rid of it but wish I'd kept the loader. Keep on Cubbin' Mike Dane

Harry Bursell - 07:05am Jul 31, 1998 EST (#988 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Stephen @986 - I was hoping Ken Updike would provide dealership experience with the 1330s (well Ken?). As for "trade-in values", I know some dealers have books on these but I'm not sure how good this info is. I believe the 1330 had a new cost around $2500 so I would suppose the $12-1500 would be about right. But where does this go to vs. a Garden unit? I'm still working on the 149, most likely will do my usual full restoration to like new. Since your in CT you could e-mail me if one of your friends might be interested in my 149.
Mike @987 - I think most often the pin holes in the cap are ovaled and the spindle itself is fine. I'd recommend replacing the cap only rather than drilling them both. My neighbor's cap and spindle holes were ovaled and the cap fit itself was loose on the top of the spindle (I think all caused by using a bolt). He drilled both and then used "lock tite" on the inside of the cap, put in the new oversized roll pin and would turn the spindle every few hours for a day. It sealed up fine, but I don't know if I'd really recommend this trick. Harry

Brad Boyd - 08:45am Jul 31, 1998 EST (#989 of 1044)
How about it guys? Will the deck off a 68' or 69' model 124 fit Joe's 100 @ 982. Let us know so that we don't waste our time. Thanks, B.B.

Kenneth Updike - 09:01am Jul 31, 1998 EST (#990 of 1044)
Steve...#986....The 1330 sounds OK to me. The price is fine, but check out the trans. The hydro used on the lawn tractors is a sealed unit(no filter) and can be really hard to fill with oil. Look over the electric PTO clutch too. Too bad your neighbor will find out the hard way why "nothing runs like Brand X". Tom...#984...Follow everyone elses advice and go with a new roll pin(spirol pin preferably). I too can see the meltdown of this forum with the 1000th posting mark,(I think Harry has a T1 phone line to VOYAGER myself) but the Brand X forum on the otherside has a daily meltdown with all the arguing going on there. Joe...#981...What parts for an ORIGINAL do you have left?????

Harry Bursell - 10:02am Jul 31, 1998 EST (#991 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Brad @989 & Joe @982 - suggest you re-verify the model and manufacturer years of your tractors (Joe - see my message @928) and re-post with tractor and deck serial numbers. I've got a Cub book which lists some deck update compatabilities using deck serial no.s and tractor models but I think more for later tractors. Most likely the deck will work but your sub-frame will require changes which could mean difficulty in attachment, belt length, leveling, etc. Dave, Rick or Ken may have better answer.
Ken @990 - no T1 line but VOYAGER connection is thru Star Trek Next Generation. Harry

Jared Piacenti - 10:45am Jul 31, 1998 EST (#992 of 1044)
Tom @984 - I did the exactly what you are thinking of doing with the 3/8 bolt. I drilled out the hole to 23/64 (1/64 under 3/8). After you drill completely through ream the hole with the bit until the bolt starts snugly into the hole the get a big hammer and drive it the rest of the way. It will take some pounding but it does work. I used a grade 8 bolt and a 2 way lock nut (one with the the dings in the sides). It hasn't moved yet. Removal of the bolt isn't that bad believe me there were a few choice words said when the bolt I put through the first time was just a hair too short. Must have been a MTD bolt... Hope this helps. Jared.

Chuck hunt - 01:45pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#993 of 1044)
Have not Heard what to do with my original cub cadet yet. My main mechanic said it was way to nice to part out & he would cry while taking parts off of it to send all over the country. Had a few inquiry's about some of the parts. Well guy's what do you think Parts or keep together ? Harry's getting closer as we speak to that free shirt. thanks!! Chuck p.s. have more tractor to go look at monday.

john a smith - 02:15pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#994 of 1044)
Kohler engine parts! I have bought into a dealer inventory ,i now can supply new parts at a great savings for example;kohler model 161 or 181 gasket set retails for $28 ,i can now sell for $22.50 shipping included! example #2 kohler model K 181 piston with rings ,retails for $ 76.65 i can sell for 50$ shipping included! send email with parts inquiry and motor model # and i will get right back to you with price ,thanks John Smith

Kenneth Updike - 03:54pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#995 of 1044)
For Sale....2..(two) 44" IH mower decks from a Red IH 782 CUB CADET. Both are hand rebuilt w/ new paint,guage wheels (Front & Back), blades, belts, bearings & IH decal. Tractor mounting subframe with new idler pulleys included too!!! Price is $500 each(Firm). Delivery extra. Located at C&G shop at Brooklyn, Wi.(Near Madison,Wi.) E-mail me if interested.

Harry Bursell - 04:05pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#996 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Well guys, looks like I'll miss out on no.1000. I'm going to a company picnic/ball game this evening and I'm sure the no. will roll. It's been great trying and if I don't get the T shirt or bus trip I don't know if I'll make it back. Bob - can you send me some 12oz tools to help my tears? Harry

Kevin - 06:15pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#997 of 1044)
Chuck at 993, DON'T PART OUT THE ORIGIONAL!!!!!!!!! I would like to have it, but I have too many tractors now. Someone out there will certainly take it of your hands. Kevin

Bob Necker - 06:33pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#998 of 1044)
It looks like it will have to be a Tee shirt for #1000. Be sure to give me your mailing address and pertinent info. A speech will be expected by the other forum visitors ! ! Thanks one and all for making this the greatest forum I've ever seen. Glad to have been a part of it. Bob

Brian Stimple - 06:51pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#999 of 1044)
Well at least I get to be 999. Maybe this will bring a flood of new messages for everyone waiting to get 1000. What is the proper way to get deck spindles to take grease. The deck is on a 79 vintage 1450 and the spindle housings are cast not stamped steel. The discharge spindle takes grease but the left and center do not. All three spindles turn very nice and I want to keep them that way. Also I did the de-carboning procedure a couple weeks back and I did not see any markings on the piston head. Is that normal or is it an indication that it had been bored. One more question and I know it has been discussed but is the paint that I just bought from a local cub dealer going to match? The numbers are: Yellow 759-3258 and White 759-3259 of Cub Cadet manufacture. The paint decal page did not jive with these. Well I got my money's worth for # 999. Time for a few of those 12 oz. tools that Harry talks about. Thanks

Harry Bursell - 09:14pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#1001 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
What's the story here. I got home from the ball game and the Forum no. shows 999 of 1000 but I can't get 1000 to come up. Is my message really 1000 or did Bob shut it off somehow? Harry

Tom Hoffman - 09:20pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#1002 of 1044)
HARRY, What makes me think that you are just sittin' there waitin' for the ticker to roll over? Hey by the way did you bid on the Catet ad on ebay? Thanks for the advise on the spindle thing, I think I'll try the double roll pin. KEN, What is the approx. price on a new spindle and cap? LATER TOM
(I bet Necker's keeping the "Tee" shirt for himself!!)

Bob Necker - 09:30pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#1003 of 1044)
Harry - It looks like you are the lucky 1000. Here's the story, I checked the forum before leaving work and it was #999. I just couldn't resist a smart ass entry. When I got home Brenda looked at it and said it wasn't cool so I deleted it. Hats off to Harry and a Tee shirt will be going his way when they are ready. Bob

Tom Hoffman - 09:41pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#1004 of 1044)
Come on Bob, we're not ALL saints here what kind of smart --- comment was it? I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I like a little good hearted ribbin' every now and then. LATER TOM

Clayton Rowland - 09:50pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#1005 of 1044) Wildwood MO
Mike Dane wrote:I was given a old Bolens Husky a few years ago by my uncle. It had a Johnson Workhorse on it. The loader really worked great nut the Bolens was junk from front to back, top to bottom. I got rid of it but wish I'd kept the loader. Keep on Cubbin' Mike Dane I JUST WANT TO SAY THAT I HAVE HAD MUCH EXPERIENCE IN AN L&G SHOP WORKING ON BOLENS TRACTORS AND I MUST TELL YOU THAT, you are absolutely right, real junk.

Mike Dane - 10:46pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#1006 of 1044)
Congratulations Harry, I was really hoping you'd nail down #1000, way to go!! One question; where do you find oversize roll pins?? The local Cub Cadet dealer laughed when I asked about them and said they only come in standerd size. I love my Cubs!

Tom Upton - 10:55pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#1007 of 1044)
Congratulations Harry!! I figure you must have posted about 200 times. I calculate your getting 1000 to be about 1 to 5. YuK Yuk Maybe I'm just a little envious. I would like one of those Tees myself even though I am new to the CC ranks.

Harry Bursell - 11:40pm Jul 31, 1998 EST (#1008 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Well I can't believe it. I knew something was up when I couldn't get 1000 to come up. I promise all you guys I won't post so many times from now on. I really have to get some things done. Besides, I'll be out and about showing off my new T-shirt. Bob, could you maybe post your message anyway. I know we really don't have to many women looking.
On a more serious note:
Brian @999 - I'll check the last paint no.s I used. I think they're the same as yours. No markings on the piston would mean it is standard (not over bored), and as for greasing your spindles I pass to someone. I don't know why you'd have cast in that late model deck.
Tom, Bob (Brenda) Mike, Tom and others - thank you, thank you, thank you.
Mike - 3/8 should be a standard size. My Cub dealer said Cub is the only place he'd seen these double sping rolled pins. I'm sure that's where I got them, although maybe I'm wrong and used 2 singles from the local hardware. I'll check and let you and Tom know.
Tom - I checked and it's 1 in 15. I won't post so much in the future. I really want all the guys to post. I'm thinking to many from me and the others don't want to post anything.
As a closing note Bob N, I was using my Star Ship Voyager web connection and saw you were going to post no. 1000. I thought it really should go to you for all your efforts in keeping this going, so I backed off on my message. Thanks for pulling yours and letting me have it. I was wondering if the T-shirt came with sun glasses, soft chair, umbrella, sundown remote controller, and the other usual tools for working on Cubs. Thanks again to you and all others. And for one final note I was checking out one of those standard IH emblems with a magnifying glass, this evening between innings. I had noticed they have what I thought was a little registered trademark, you know the "R inside a circle". Well low and behold if you check with a magnifier it's not what I thought. It is a small "JD*". I checked at the bottom of the sticker for the asterick info and it noted IH with the JD* stood for "I Hate John Deere". Ops, I really shouldn't have said that, but you guys should check out those stickers.
Thanks again Harry

Kenneth Updike - 08:59am Aug 1, 1998 EST (#1009 of 1044)
Brian....#999....The yellow color you list is correct, however the white should be IH 935 white PN# 991116R1 for a QT. If the spindles won't take grease, replace the zerks.
Tom...#1002...I would guess a price on the spindle & cap to be around $100. The oversize and doubled wrapped (spirol) roll pins can be bought at any IH Dealer. We have a huge drawer full of them.
Harry...#1008...I knew that you would let the secret out on the hidden code printed on the IH emblems...Thanks!!! It proves once again that "nothing runs like Brand X...When a CUB CADET is is right on its @#*!!!!!!" Congrats on being elected #1000. Time to open up one of those 64 OZ. (no need fooling with a lil 12 OZ.) "tools" BOB N. keeps talking about...."Its CUB CADET time!!!"

Chuck Hunt - 01:03pm Aug 1, 1998 EST (#1010 of 1044)
Condradulations Harry !!! The Chances are not looking real good for the Original cub staying in one piece. Have lots of e-mail wanting parts off of it. Only couple wanting whole tractor. We will decide on wendsday while i'm in the office as to what we will do with this tractor. Can't stand to watch my mechanic cry so will be in the road when Tom ( my partner ) gives him the order to disassble this piece of history. Almost brought tears to my eyes just then. p.s. Have another load of kohler engines coming in on tuesday if you need used parts ( cheaper than new) Well gota go get ready for tractor pull.

Bob Hitefox - 01:12pm Aug 1, 1998 EST (#1011 of 1044)
Ken .....#1009....Are the zerk fittings on the front axle of a CC1650 pressed into place or threaded. I can't get any grease into one of them, I don't to try to remve it until I know how it is secured. Harry Bursell....WAY TO GO..... Any chance to get to see a picture of this shirt ? Harry , Bob N

Brian Stimple - 06:58pm Aug 1, 1998 EST (#1012 of 1044)
Ken at 1009: I have pulled the zerks out of the spindles and grease will pass thru them and down into the hole of the spindle but thats as far as it will go. Can these be taken apart and indivdually cleaned? Or are they a pressed together assembly? As for the paint, I got anxious to repaint my wheels and found out the white on the cap turned into a nice late model cc biege or tan color. Oh well it will make a nice primer coat for the correct color. Does anyone got a line on snow blade for my 1450? (After market? Brinley? etc.) Thanks.

Harry Bursell - 12:03am Aug 2, 1998 EST (#1013 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Brian @1012 - sorry about the beige paint. Also, on Ken's IH white it's much better priced (about 1/2 of Cub). Hope you have Case/IH dealer in your area. On your snow blade request I've got a 54" I used on my 1450. I planned to have it go with the 149 I have but if you're in the general area you could e-mail me. Unless your real handy in welding and such I'd avoid aftermarket. You need the correct sub-frame to have it work best. Also, if your 1450 is a later model the lower grill is probably die cast like the upper and the blade must be positioned forward enough so that when its raised is doesn't bang this. Ken mentioned it was Cub Cadet time in his message which I saw was posted at 8:59AM so he must have been opening his shop. Well for me it's nearly midnight which means it's almost the end of Cub Cadet Tool Time. Gotta get me 1 more. Harry

john a smith - 12:39am Aug 2, 1998 EST (#1014 of 1044)
another example of parts savings for cub collectors that i can offer points and condensor set list for $ 17 can sell for $10 for any size Kohler thanks again John Smith happy rebuilding to all Cub fans

Mike Morris - 07:52am Aug 2, 1998 EST (#1015 of 1044)
I have a Model 100 Cub Cadet and am wanting to fabricate the steel bracket that fits the lift mechanism for mounting a snow blade. I have removed the bracket that holds the mower deck and am now faced with what remains. If anyone could e-mail me a picture of an original bracket with a snow blade attached, it would sure help me avoid trying to re-invent the wheel. Thanks in advance.

Harry Bursell - 08:13am Aug 2, 1998 EST (#1016 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Mike @1015 - see if you can find the snowblade sub-frame from any of the 11" wide frame Cub tractors (thru 107/127/147 series) or even the 13" wide series could work. This will give you a good start for modifying to fit your model. Maybe John Smith or someone else on here in used parts would have this. Surely someone has a blade rusted thru but with a good sub-frame. This with a photo from someone should allow you to make it. Harry

Tom Hoffman - 10:10am Aug 2, 1998 EST (#1017 of 1044)
Mike @ 1006, The next time you go to your Cub Cadet dealer tell him to stop laughin' and that he should look a little harder for the "oversize" spiral or roll pin! Went to the local Case/IH-Cub Cadet dealer on saturday, and the counter guy went right to it.
I'm also finding out that buying the real thing parts from local dealers is NOT always more expensive. Points and condenser from NAPA is about $4.50-$5.00 more

Kenneth Updike - 11:24am Aug 2, 1998 EST (#1018 of 1044)
Bob...#1011..The front axle spindle zerks are pressed in. Good Luck!!! Brian...#1012...I'm thinking that your mower deck is a 44" or 50"?????? If so, the spindles are not made to be dissasembled. They are a 1 piece unit. MTD will want you to buy a spindle conversion kit, but we still have the old style IH ST745 bearings here on the shelf. I made reference to this a while back here. So...either replace them now, or run them till they die.
Harry...#1013...When I said it was "CUB CADET time" I was refering to the "famous" comercial for a certain branded malted beverage made in Milwaukee, WI. The name starts with an "M" and ends with a "R". Tom...#1017...I agree 100%!!!!!!!

Brian Stimple - 01:27pm Aug 2, 1998 EST (#1019 of 1044)
Ken at 1018: Yes I do have a 44 A deck. Do the IH ST745 spindles work for all three positons on the deck?
Harry at 1013: My tractor has quick disconnects for hydraulic on the front. Is this for angular adjustment of the blade and is the blade you have set up for this? Thanks Guys

Richard Phillips - 10:43pm Aug 2, 1998 EST (#1020 of 1044)
Hi everyone... I am in need of something called a 'field coil' for my electric PTO clutch on my 1250. I removed it for engine maintenance, and when I put it back on, the clutch 'driving'hub rubbed thru the coil and shorted it out. I don't know how it rubbed... there doesn't seem to be a way to adjust the clearance between the hub and the coil, as the hub bolts directly to the crank, and the coil bolts directly to the block. It was a complete rebuild, and the only thing I can think of is maybe the crank bearing isn't seated all the way, allowing the hub to be too close to the coil.
I checked out Carter and Gruenwald on the net, and a new electrical PTO clutch is $215.00!!! Seems to me I might could purchasse the coil seperately, or perhaps have it rewound at a generator shop. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated.

Harry Bursell - 12:14am Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1021 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Ken @1018 - I never touch the stuff before noon. Fortunately, it's always afternoon someplace. My preference has a sound like MTD if you say it to fast (MGD).

Brian @1019 - the front quick disconnects are for angling a snow/dozer blade. I've never seen how this connects on our series tractors. The current units have a cylinder which I believe is mounted on the back of the blade. The blade I have is actually a Bolens (54long20high) that I attached to the subframe from my Cub 42" plow. It took some work but I had the 42" blade to work from so it stays quite clear of the grill parts. It works great with the hydraulic lift and has 5 positions just like the Cub blade. No more trails running off the end like with a 42" blade. Also when the 42 blade was at it's fullest angle it wasn't as wide as the rear 23x10.5 tires tracks. Anyway, I found a thrower a few years ago and now use that. The Bolens blade is heavier and taller than the standard Cub blade and very similar to the Cub Cadet Super Garden 54" blade, although I've only seen it in pictures.
John A. Smith - your price for points and condensor at $10 sounds a bit high to me. I bought a Kohler "Renew the Power" tune up kit, Kohler part no. KH 47-757-03, about 6 months ago for $13.58 plus tax. This kit includes points, points push rod, point cover gasket, condensor, valve cover gasket (inner and outer), breather filter, and a head gasket. I suggest this kit to all. When it's time for a tune-up you should do the valves and de-carbon the head. John, did you get these kits in your NOS?
Richard @1020 - my field coil failed on my 1450 about 8 years ago. When I went to the Cub dealer he told me I was lucky as he had 1 coil left, and after that MTD was only providing the complete units. I'd post a message on the Puller Forum under buy and sell and also on here, and even check with the used parts guys. The puller guys don't use these electric PTO units. They probably takem off and toss'em. The coils are probably the same on the 1250,1450,1650 motors. Now for the installation, it's in the service manual and you must use a fealer gauge and adjust the gap at the 3 spring nut adjusters. I could try to help you by e-mail unless someone else can describe it easily (I don't think there's a contest for longest post, but I probably won that too.) Harry

Les Hutchison - 11:04am Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1022 of 1044)
I am considering purchase of a Cub Model 147- Does anyone know if- - the Cub Model 147 has a fiberglass hood?? - is a 14 hp?? - how is the hydro checked?? Thanks

Mike Tilton - 12:57pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1023 of 1044)
Now that the 1000th post is gone, I need to re-ask a question, anybody know where I can get a Kohler(K-161) engine for an original, or can a Kohler(K-241) 10hp fit on an original. At the Kohler web site they list a re-build kit for the 241 but not the 161, are parts sill available for the 161??. CHUCK did you decide to keep or part, although I hate to see it parted, I would be interested in the engine. Mike Richard Phillips - 03:27pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1024 of 1044)
Harry @ 1021 My clutch has 4 spring nuts, but aren't these to adjust the 'driving hub' to 'driven disc' clearance? The 'field coil' to 'driving hub' clearance appears to be factory set and non-adjustable.

Harry Bursell - 03:44pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1025 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Les @1022 - My friends 147 has a metal hood and a 14hp K series Kohler with Delco starter/generator. Hope someone else can address how to check hydro. Mike @1023 - I've got an 8hp Kohler (K181 I believe) from a Cadet Model 86. It supposedly ran when I got the tractor 3 years ago but I never heard it. No holes that I could see and seemed to have compression. The motor is complete with carb but the coil and starter/generator are missing and possibly some of the tin work. E-mail me at IHCubCadet@aol.com if interested. Richard @1024 - I think you're correct on 4 bolts and mounting method. I'll try to check this PM and let you know unless someone else comes back with detail. This is a little out of my league. Harry

Chuck Hunt - 06:54pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1026 of 1044)
Mike, At 1023 As of now it looks like the original is going to be in parts come next thursday. I will have a meeting wednesday to decide the fate of this tractor with my partner. No one has made an offer for the complete tractor as of now. Have had e-mail asking me not part it out, But can't keep it together just to sit around gathering dust. My mechanic ask every day has some one made an offer yet? I ought to give it to him ( early x-mas bonus ) well gota go i'll let you know on thursday as to what the demise for this tractor is. Never had this much trouble before. Chuck

Mike Dane - 07:29pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1027 of 1044)
Maybe I'll part out my mint restored Original. It has the fenders, creeper drive, 38" mower, perfect hood with trim and decals, original tires etc.runs perfectly all parts are painted to look like new. What do you think. I have pretty much lost interest in it. It also has new chrome hub caps. This is a professional type of restoration, new wiring harness etc. My e-mail @ vwcub@webtv.net thanks: Mike Dane

Mike LeHere - 10:01pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1028 of 1044)
I have a 149 that has considerable "slop" in the steering. I intend to rebuild the steering box. Before I start, can anyone tell me what cauases this over time and what parts are likely in need of being replaced in the steering box. Is there an adjustment that removes some of this "slop"?

Harry Bursell - 10:02pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1029 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Richard @1024 - Manual calls for .008 to .010" clearance between the field coil and driving hub. This is to be measured at four locations around the hub. If necessary the field coil can be shifted. Also the driven disc must have .060 to .090" clearance at 3 evenly spaced locations. This is to be checked on a level bench. If not you are to add shims on to the driving hub. There is also a note that late production units do not use shims and the air gap is permanentally set. This clutch is unpainted while the clutch requiring shims is painted black. Finally, adjusting the clutch, there should be .010" clearance between the driven face of the rotor assembly and and the driving hub. This is checked at the four slots in the brake flange and you obtain this by adjusting the four nuts on springs located around the rotor assembly. Hope this helps. If you post a fax no. or e-mail it to me I'll fax you the 4 pages from the service manual. This may help in the end.
Mike @1029 - It's not a hard job but I'd recommend the service manual because of the parts and the adjustments. You can get a copy pretty quick through Ken Updike's dealer ship (I believe he stocks them). Typically the cam follower bolt can be adjusted to remove most of the slack without taking the box off. The box itself has bearing races with what can be loose ballbearings. They can easily get mis-aligned when putting it together. Go for the manual and then make the adjustments before you remove the box. It may work for a long time. Harry.

Tom Hoffman - 10:05pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1030 of 1044)
Milt @1023, The OFFICIAL Kohler replacement engine for the K-161 is the K-181 8hp. It should bolt right in. LATER TOM

Chris Carpentier - 11:39pm Aug 3, 1998 EST (#1031 of 1044)
My message goes out to Mr.Necker. I caught one of your messages you recently posted in the garden web forum where you spoke about the MTD built Cubs. I felt you spoke highly of these units and wonder why you try to limit the posts on this forum to the IH built cubs? I have alot of questions about my 3185 cub, but I would feel like a (BLACK SHEEP) if I asked them on this forum. No doubt the Cubs today are not made as heavy duty as they were before, but what is? Also, there's something to be said for brand loyality and little time for repairing an older unit. Even though they are owned by a different company, they are still a superior tractor compared to others. Believe me when I say I've owned an older 149+169 which were both great units, but my new one has features I would dearly miss going back to the older ones. Please think about what I am saying and I look foward to your post. Sincerely, Chris carpentier

john a smith - 01:36am Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1032 of 1044)
hello everyone havent been able to buy that kit at a discount .i can however sell points and condensers for $7 and a complete gasket set with the seals for $18 also can get a good deal on pistons with rings for the 181 list price is over $75 i can sell them for $40 oversize or standard same price john

Mike Dane - 07:05am Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1033 of 1044)
I'm with Chris @ 1031. I have a few friends with the newer Cadets and they love 'em. I'd be interested in what others have to say about them. I'd would buy one if I didn't like my old ones so much. Cub Cadet " Takes the hard work out of yard work". Mike Dane

Dave Holtmart - 07:10am Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1034 of 1044)
John Smith, Would you e- mail me your address i lost it. Do you have any K-341 engines? I'm looking for one. Dave

Harry Bursell - 07:32am Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1035 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Bob N. - I'm with Chris and Mike. Although I'm in agreement with some of the early Cub Cadet ads that you buy the tractor for "Life", the day may come when my sons, relatives or friends have a newer (MTD) Cub. I don't really know anything about them except a little on the Super Garden which wasn't a whole lot different, but I'd like to know more. Harry

Richard Phillips - 09:12am Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1036 of 1044)
Harry @ 1029 Thanks for you help, my fax # is (972)774-7007. I'll let you know how it works out.

Harry Bursell - 11:04am Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1037 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Chuck @1026 - URGENT - don't part it out. Give it to your mechanic. It's something he can appreciate and also will appreciate in value. I know when you're in the business you want to turn the cash quick but in this case listen to your heart.
Mike @1027 - I know people loose interest in things over time, but if you begin to part it out it's hard to go back. Put a price on it and keep it until you get the right buyer, or keep it for retirement to use in shows and parades. It really can't take that much room in your 20x40. Build a special wall shelf close to the ceiling if you have to. Someday you'll be glad you did.
Note to all Forum users: There is a second (optional info) line for registered users. I added my home town and suggest all do this. You can change your registration and add this by logging in and double clicking on preferences at the bottom of the page. I discovered a user only 6 miles from me. Are there any others???? Harry

Rick Goodman - 01:10pm Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1038 of 1044)
Man am I glad this 1000 fever is over. It was a royal pain in the ass trying to keep up with all the post. I finally took a sabaticle and enjoyed a few of those 12 oz'ers myself. But my nerves are calmed and I'm back with you all now. I do have to brag for a second though as my son won his 1st garden tractor pull he ever entered last weekend. Sorry to report that he wasn't on a Cadet, although he did beat one.( sorry Kevin, I couldn't resist after the "green" e-mail comment you sent me) Did I mention before that I kinda think Wheel Horses are neat too?
Chris at 1031, just e-mail me if you want to talk about your 3185. I like em. I work on em and I sell em every chance I get. When you wrench at a Cadet dealership you gotta do what you gotta do. I think they are going to be OK. It's just that this forum is set up for people who are into the IH built series, and that's why MTD isn't spoken here too much. Thanks for showing interest and if you hang around here long enough, we'll have you buying an old IH to restore! Congrats to Harry for the t-shirt. I'll bet his fingers and keyboard are both glad he can slow down now!
I almost forgot, I have decals coming in for the "Spirit of 76" mowers. Please let me know if you are interested in a set as soon as possible as the more I have made the cheaper they will be. The Original decals Bob is selling are great. I have 3 sets of them and they are top quality. Later, Rick

Bob Necker - 01:29pm Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1039 of 1044)
To Chris a 1031 and all others out there who are wondering why this forum limits discussion to the Cub Cadets mfg'd by International Harvester.
I guess it is time for a bit of soul baring ! !
The reason for limiting this discussion on the site to the units Mfg'd by IH is because that is where the interests of the creators of it lie. We started it as a way to gather information and dissiminate it to those interested in restoring and gathering parts for these particular units. Most of us also have other interests such as antique engines, tractors and other vintage equipment. Rick and I both have full size farm tractors and equipment but have a very special interest in the IH Cub Cadets. We limited the forum to these particular models because there are other sites that adequately deal with other aspects of the "garden tractor" realm. Such as garden tractor pulling, vintage garden tractors, Brand X garden tractors etc. We regularly check these sites because we also have an interest in how "the rest of the world" lives.
Chris mentioned brand loyalty. Believe me when I say that it runs deep in this household. There were no green machines on the farm I was raised on. My father had only Chevy cars and trucks, IH tractors and equipment and Angus cattle. I still drive a Chevy truck, drink domestic beverages, and ride a Harley. (Yikes - sounding a bit red around the collar there.) But that's just the way it is. Another reason for the lack of discussion (it seems to creep in once in a while however) about MTD units is that MTD has a very extensive website of their own. They should be able to answer any questions you might have about their products. I believe that even though the tractors coming off the line now might not be of the same quality as those of 30 years ago, they are as good a machine as you will find on the market. A company does not command an 80%+ market share by producing shoddy equipment. Their Cub Cadet line, by the way, does not roll off the same line as the rest of the MTD product. It is a separate facility. I understand that Cub Cadet is a wholly owned subsidiary of the parent company. I also have been told that MTD actually mfg's some lower end Brand X (green) machines.
Were I to purchase a new lawn/garden tractor it would most likely be an MTD Cub Cadet. I think it is probably the best engineered and built choice available. However I enjoy my old ones so much that I never have enough lawn to mow just to get to use them. My interest in them goes much farther than getting the grass cut. I love tinkering with them, restoring an old Original and showing it off to the folks at shows and just playing with them. If I just wanted the most effecient grass cutting machine I probably wouldn't have a shed full of the little buggers out back ! ! Unless you are slightly atilt you probably don't realize the immense satisfaction of spotting an old tractor in the weeds and making a deal for the old "junker" and getting it home and making it run. I guess it is the old hunter instinct in us. I much prefer that to stalking the less elusive plastic and tin units at Wal-Mart or Quality Supply. Besides all the above you meet the best bunch of ppl when they are standing around admiring that nice little Cub Cadet of yours that is just like the one they wish they had.
Chris, do not hesitate to contact by e-mail any of the several very savvy MTD Cub Cadet technicians that contribute to this forum. Co-founder Rick Goodman is probably one of the most knowledgable guys around when it comes to these units. Bob

Harry Bursell - 02:15pm Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1040 of 1044) Woodbury, CT
Bob N.- thanks for clarifying the "IH" only position for the Forum. We all appreciate the creators positions and what you have done in the interests of these machines. Do you think you can help Chuck and Mike before those Originals get separated into parts never to be together again. I was thinking of sending them a list of 10 dealers from my area. Surely there must be a dealer interested in one of these for promotional purposes. They aren't as expensive as a new unit and in fact would probably be cheaper than most of their promotion items/materials. Maybe all Forum participants could e-mail a list of their area dealers to these guys, what do you think??? Harry

Rick Goodman - 02:41pm Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1041 of 1044)
Bob, Well put!! Rick

Michael Tilton - 04:30pm Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1042 of 1044) Hamilton, Oh
Harry @1000, Harry @1024, Harry @1040, looks like he's on his way to 2000!! Bob, you better start planning for a #2000 prize!

Joe Cro - 07:54pm Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1043 of 1044) Washington Crossing, Penna.
Hello Again, Would anyone have a headlight assembly to fit a '75 model 100? Interested in working or non-working. My machine did not come with the headlight option so I could use the whole setup if any are available. Thank You.

Jesse Luebke - 09:02pm Aug 4, 1998 EST (#1044 of 1044)
Hello! It's been a while since I have posted here. Just too busy with honey-do's. Can anyone tell me how much trouble it would be to put a Kohler Magnum 16HP engine in my IH CC? Would you even recommend this alteration? Thank you. Hi, Harry.

Stephen LaRoche - 01:59am Jul 13, 1998 EST (#815 of 823)
If anyone is looking for the gas tank decals I got a set from this person. They are exactly like the originals. They are the 7hp. I don't know if this person has the other horse powers. You will have to ask. They are an exact match and look great. I believe he charges $6.00 a pair. Well worth it. Email him at brandonp@evansville.net

Stephen LaRoche - 03:13am Jul 14, 1998 EST (#828 of 835)
Gas Tank Decals - Contact Brandon brandonp@evansville.net. He has the 7hp and may have the other Hp. He gets I think $6.00 a pair. They are exactly like the original decal. Can't tell the difference, because there isn't any.
Paint for International Cub Cadet
Bob - on the paint page you list several other manufacturers and very early on the forum there was a lot of discussion on paint. I have used qts of Ace Hardware Rust Stop "School Bus Yellow". It's just about a dead ringer to the current MTD Cub Cadet Yellow as best I can tell. It may have a slightly different hue (depending on the sun) but it has great gloss. They also have it in spray but it just doesn't gloss the same. I brush the cast iron pieces with a true bristle brush (not polyester). The paint is nice and thick and sort of self leveling. I've even done this on the under side of fenders and got no brush marks but did get a few runs. Every heard of this one? Ace describes it as an implement paint and they have color matches for JD, Cat., etc. They also have an Almond which is very close to Cub White but I think slightly darker. Again good gloss from the qts but not the spray. I get it here for $5qt is more the reason I ask. 1st Cub I did cost me over $200 for Cub dealer paint. I know now Case/IH dealers have it for better price but still not $5. I don't have a compressor, or sand blaster or paint booth, just an electric wire brush and sander, and the summertime great outdoors or the winter time basement and a 500W halogen light. I've had a lot of complements on my paint work even tho I do it this way. Takes a lot of time but I sand and prime and sand, then use the Ace, then final coat with the expensive Cub stuff. Do you or anyone else know about the Ace paint? Has anyone else used it?

Harry Bursell - 11:24pm Jul 9, 1998 EST (#793 of 797)
Bob - you must be on hear at the same time. I went and looked at the IH decal on the rear of my 149 and the one on the 48 mowing deck. The one on the tractor is bigger than the mowing deck and it is only the red I and black H, everything else is cut away to the yellow paint. The decal on the deck is a white square with IH in the upper center and very small lettered International Harvester on the bottom. Is is possible to get the IH made a little bigger and laser cut out to its shape? Also, as far as silk screen or water decal, when I did my 1872 the Cub decals were really just stickers, not true water transfers. They come pre-glued. Is this more what you mean by silk screen? Also, on the Kohler decals was it Rick that mentioned getting these before? Thanks Harry

Harry Bursell - 11:39pm Jul 9, 1998 EST (#794 of 797)
Bob - I just looked at the picture of your 100 and the IH on the front between the lights looks just like the IH I'm referring to. Thanks Harry

Mason Ridlen - 11:42pm Jul 9, 1998 EST (#795 of 797)
Harry@790 I have a 12hp gas tank with a good 12hp decal/sticker on it. If I need to take a picture or measure it & send to you I can. It's from a 12hp engine that needs work. Came in a 107 that I got. Of course, it's not the original engine for the 107. I've sure learned a lot about CC's since I have been checking this forum a couple times a day. I'm debating the issue of restoring the 107 or continue using it to mow with. Actually, the 7hp I put in it is running very well & is handling the hydro & deck if you don't push it hard.
I have mixed Sherwin Williams paint for my CC & plan to put it in spray cans as I need it. It seems to be a very good color match & results look good, too. The Automotive Finishes Division has the necessary formulas. I guess it'd be a little more than $5 per can but you can get 4 spray cans from a pint of paint. Another very good way to get the paint on is using a Preval sprayer. Inexpensive, too. Just a propellant hooked to a small jar about the size of a large baby food jar. You can mix hardener in this paint & it will give great gloss & becomes very durable. Just like using a spray can but is reusable. Really, whatever works is usually the right way. Sounds like you have a method that works. Mason

Bob Necker - 12:05am Jul 10, 1998 EST (#796 of 797)
I just checked the decals on my 100. The mower and seat spring decals are of the "sticker" type. Both are white background with thin black outline. They have the familiar red 'I' and black 'H' logo with INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER in small block print below. In very small print at the very bottom right is Made in U.S.A.
The one on the seat spring measures 1 1/2" W X 1 5/8" H. The mower deck decal measures 2" W X 2 1/4" H
Now for the paint dilemna. IH painted the Cub Cadets what is know as Federal Yellow. This color, as I understand it was a uniform color mandated by the US Gov't as was Federal Blue and Federal Red. Just a standard to which all paint used by them or designated by them had to meet.
Paint is a whole different ball of wax and I'm sure that it could be 'stirred' (pun ! ? !) up as much or more than gear vs hydro or even the "Great Oil Controversy" ! The paint codes included on the paint and decal page are guides only and in no way are to be construed as the 'gospel'. Just an easy way to actually get the correct color on that little beauty. However you do it is entirely up to the individual. I have used IH paint because it is easily obtainable, I can be reasonably sure that it is the correct color and in truth is not any more expensive than any other available in this particular locality.

Kenneth Updike - 08:33am Jul 10, 1998 EST (#797 of 797) The Great IH CUB CADET PAINT Debate.....Time to "stir" things up!!! Here's the Cub Cadet Paint "Gospel" according to IH.
IH used two colors of yellow in the production of the Cub Cadets. IH #483 Yellow was used from serial # 501 to 335967 AND from SN # 562955 to 664996............IH #483B Yellow was used from SN# 335968 to SN# 562954. So yes, IH Federal yellow is correct, but for those "extreme purists" here's your ammo.
IH used three colors of white in the production of the Cub Cadets. IH #901 white was used from SN# 501 to SN# 218009.........IH #902 White was used from SN#218010 to SN#375938.........IH #935 White was used from SN# 375939 till the end of the RED 82 series Cub Cadet production in 1985. Once again here's the "ammo" for the "extreme purists". Make sure that you take your paint chip charts with you before you start to "critique" a Cub Cadets paint at a show. Anyone else care to "mix it up" on the IH Cub Cadet paint debate or should we let this topic "thin down".

Dave Holtmart - 09:08pm May 14, 1998 EST (#314 of 800)
Bob Necker, on your paint and decal page you list sherwin williams but no mix or paint #, I painted my new pulling tractor 108 cadet to day. I used sherwin williams, acrylic enamel, acme # 85-34748y as far I can tell matching with pieces I painted with spray can of original cadet yellow, they match perfect. I also used gloss and glow hardener and it shins better than new. Dave

Mason Ridlen - 10:03pm May 14, 1998 EST (#317 of 800)
Dave Holtman @ 314 I work for a Sherwin Williams Automotive Finishes Branch & will look for the formula #s for the Cub Cadet colors. I'm sure we have them. The paint is usually available in various qualities, too. I suppose that Acrylic Enamel would be the most cost effective & is fairly durable. Can even put it in aerosol cans. I'll try & put the formula no's here in a few days. I don't work Fridays.

Mason Ridlen - 07:37pm May 18, 1998 EST (#380 of 800)
The formula numbers for Sherwin Williams Cub Cadet paints are as follows: Cub Cadet White--#6991 Cub Cadet Yellow--#34748 These are available from Sherwin Williams Automotive Finishes Branches or from their Jobber customers. These are available in nearly every state.

Dave Holtmart - 06:07am May 19, 1998 EST (#385 of 800)
Mason, Bob, The paint # i posted last week looks more like new cadet color than old . Mason, can you check this mix # for me, Acme 85-34748y. The other day some were asking about rearend with pto i have one came in a parts tractor i bought last fall. It has a slider gear that connects output shaft and main shaft together, on the outside of housing is lever to ingage. Dave

Mason Ridlen - 08:33pm May 19, 1998 EST (#394 of 800)
Dave @ 385-- The Acme paint formula # is the same as Sherwin Williams. The prefix was a different number for Acme probably just to separate the line. Acme was made by Sherwin. I'll check but I'm pretty sure that 85 meant Acrylic Enamel. The rest is the same formula number for Cub Cadet yellow. Martin Senour is also Sherwin Williams & probably has the same formulas--the toners are the same--and the local NAPA distribution center mixes that brand. Someone has removed the implement lift handle assembly from my 107 & replaced it with a lever/bar mechanism that could lift a field cultivator on our JD 4450! Hope I can get another proper assembly. That's for another day, however.

Dave Holtmart - 06:33am May 20, 1998 EST (#398 of 800)
Mason, thanks for the info, this paint really shins! I have a little over spray what should i use to remove, i have 07 polishing compound, but haven't used it yet, will this damage the finish? Paint #34748 is this a straight enamel, what thinner should be used, and will gloss and glow work with this paint ok. I'm plannig to restore my 61 this coming winter and would like to use this paint on it. Dave

Mason Ridlen - 11:11pm May 21, 1998 EST (#413 of 800)
Dave @ 398 What I indicated to you earlier about the Acme paint #s was correct. I had a question as to what your gloss & glow was. I talked to an old Acme representative today & he said it was hardener for the paint. If this is correct it will give a hard glossy finish & will last much longer. The formula 34748(yellow) for the Cub Cadet that you asked about should be an acrylic enamel & in Sherwin Williams (35-34748) usually uses R7-K211 or R7-K212 reducer. The hardener is V6-V241 or a higher solids V6-V247. The recommended mix ratio is 8-6-1 (paint-reducer-hardener). This will give a good durable glossy finish. There is also an acrylic urethane available & is an extremely durable, high gloss, chemical/solvent resistant finish. Sherwin calls it Sunfire acrylic urethane. REMEMBER THE REAL KEY TO A GOOD FINISH IS PREPARATION OF THE SURFACE. Now, I have a question. Does anyone know whether the CC's require a reverse polarity battery? I kinda doubt it but the battery sold to the fellow that gave me the 107 was a reverse polarity(stamped in the case by the pole). They said it was the one for the Cub. The new operators manual & service manual I just received doesn't address this.

Kenneth Updike - 09:17am Jul 13, 1998 EST (#818 of 823)
Bob....#814....Glad that you have confessed your sin, we wouldn't want to have to exile you to the "other colored" L&G forum on Voyager. For your pennance, you'll have 3 choices. 1.Repaint the Brand X machine Cub Cadet Yellow and White. 2.Buy me one of those rare Red & White painted Brand X L&G tractors. 3. Repeat 100 times "Hydros are superior to gear drives".
Harry...#816....At the Red Power Roundup held in Madison, SD last year someone had built a Cub Cadet Crawler and called it the model "00". I snapped a photo of it. It was a crawler sold by Northern Hyraulics???? that had the grille and hood from a Cub Cadet 100 added. A very, very, nice machine. Not a "cobble job" at all. It had a V-twin Briggs engine and even remote hydraulics.
*******Everyone intersted in seeing a Book printed on Cubs and Cub Cadets should contact Motorbooks International of Osceola, Wi. and tell them that you want one. (1-800-826-6600) This is the only way a book on these tractors will happen. If you don't tell them this is the book you want to buy, Motorbooks doesn't know what to print. I have tried to pitch this book, but was shot down and are doing a different book now on Modern IH tractors.